Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Mountain Comparisons
Practical advice from more than 30 years of climbing, from Colorado to the summits of Everest and K2: what gear to take, how to stay in touch, how to choose a guide and how the mountains compare. For one-on-one help planning your climb, see Summit Coach.
I have been very fortunate to climb some of the world’s most popular mountains. This pages provides a quick comparison of some of these Hills that may be helpful for climbers with experience on one and considering another. Also see my comparison of the 7 Summits
| Rainier (14,410′) | Denali (20,320′) | Ama Dablam (22,494′) | Aconcagua (22,902′) | Broad Peak (26,401) | Cho Oyu (26,907′) | Everest (29,031′) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Time in nearest large city | Seattle | Anchorage | Katmandu | Mendoza | Islamabad | Tibet | Katmandu |
| Route commented on and date climbed | Ingraham Glacier July 2004 | West Buttress July 2011 | Southwest Ridge September 2000 | Polish Traverse January 2011 | West Ridge June 2006 | Northwest Ridge September 1998 | Southeast Ridge April 2011 |
| Headline | Not your typical American 14er | Some of the best views and worst weather | Something for everyone: rock, snow ad ice | Often underestimated by the 70% who don’t summit the highest peak outside the Himalaya | Starts steep and never lets up with amazing views of K2 | The perfect introduction to 8000m climbing | The top of the world and deserving of every accolade over the century |
| Approach to base Camp (BC) | drive to trailhead! | plane from Talkeetna to Kahiltna Glacier | easy, 5 days trek in Khumbu | easy, 3 day trek to BC | long & harsh, 6 days mostly glacier walking | easy, 4 day drive to BC, 1 day to ABC | easy, 7 day trek to BC in Khumbu |
| Overall Difficulty | Moderate – short “climbing” section, little danger, altitude and 14 hour day can bother some not ready for it. | Moderate – no “climbing” required other than headwall, heavy loads up and down high up requires excellent fitness | Very Hard – technical rock and ice skills at high altitude. Loads can be heavy going up. If inexperienced in rock climbing, Yellow Tower can be very hard. | Moderate – no “climbing” involved, altitude can bother some who go too fast. | Hard – high altitude, 5 week minimum, continuously steep, harsh weather, long approach. | Hard – high altitude, 6 week climb, heavy loads down climbing from C3 after the summit | Very hard – altitude above 25000′ wears on you, 8 weeks away. |
| Technical Difficulty (ice or rock climbing, need for axes, harnesses, slings, protection, etc) | easy. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety | easy. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety. Pull sled with gear | Difficult, 5.7 rock climbing, 60 degree ice | easy, crampons in one short section | moderate. used fixed ropes, ice axe, harness, crampons. Summit is very steep snow slope | moderate due to altitude in yellow band. Harness, axe, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety | moderate due to altitude in yellow band, Hillary Step. Harness, axe, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety |
| Altitude Considerations | If 1st time at 14K, can bother some people | Must acclimatize gradually with rest days at 14K and 17K Watch for AMS. | Serious, especially above C2. Many people rush up. Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE | Serious, especially above C3. Must acclimatize gradually and not rush. Watch for AMS, HAPE and HACE | Serious, especially above C3. Use supplemental Oxygen. Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE | Serious, especially above C2. Use supplemental Oxygen. Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE | Serious, especially above C2. Use supplemental Oxygen. Must acclimatized properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE |
| Weather (all mountains can be cold, windy and constantly change!!) | +50F day, 0F night. we had no snow and light winds | +40F day, -10F night. we had no snow and light winds. Can be brutally cold!! | +50F day, -20F night on summit. we had light snow and light winds | +40F day, 0F night. Constant high winds. no precipitation | +90F day, -30F night at altitude. Can have strong winds, heavy snow for days on end!! | +80F day, -20F night high up. High winds at C3, moderate snowfall throughout | +90F day, -30F night above 23K. Occasional very high winds, moderate to heavy snowfall |
| base Camp altitude | 5,420 at Paradise | 7,200 at Kahiltna Glacier | 17,000 | 13,880 Campo Argentina | 15,500 on the glacier | 18,500 Advanced base Camp | 17,500 on Khumbu Glacier |
| Camp 1 and average climb time from previous Camp | 10,100 – Camp Muir 5 hours | 7,800 – 3 hours | 18, 500 – 4 hours | 16,075 – 3 hours | 19,000 – 5 hours | 20,600 – 6 hours | 19,500 – 4 hours via Icefall after acclimation |
| Camp 2 and average climb time from previous Camp | N/A | 11,200 – 4 hours | 20,000 – 6 hours | 17,500 (Camp 1.5) – 4 hours | 21,000 – 4 hours | 22,000 – 4 hours | 21,000 – 3 hours |
| Camp 3 and average climb time from previous Camp | N/A | 14,200 – 3 hours | 21,500 – 4 hours | 19,500 – 3 hours | 23,000 – 6 hours | 24,500 – 4 hours | 23,500 – 5 hours |
| Camp 4 and average climb time from previous Camp | N/A | 17,200 – 6 hours | N/A | N/A | 24,500 – 5 hours (not always used) | N/A | 26,300 – 4 hours |
| Summit and average round trip climb time | 14,417 – 9 hours summit round trip | 20,320 – 9 hours summit round trip | 22,494 – 8 hours summit round trip | 22,902 – 10 hours summit round trip | 26,401 – 10 hours true summit round trip | 26,907 – 12 hours summit round trip | 29,035 – 18 hours summit round trip |
| Special gear required or suggested | earplugs for RMI hut | excellent fitting pack for heavy loads | Full down suit or jacket/pants | excellent wind protection | Full down suit or jacket/pants AND excellent wind protection | Full down suit or jacket/pants | Full down suit or jacket/pants |
| Special training required or suggested | Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). | Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. | Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Strong thigh and calf muscles for long days. | Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). | Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. | Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. | Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Strong thigh and calf muscles for long days. |
| Low point of the mountain or climb | RMI Hut – noisy, smelly. | trudging up to Basin Camp at 14K with full loads and sleds. Few nice views … yet | Yellow Tower and snow couloir can be exhausting | dirt, dust and wind the entire climb! | Very remote. BC is harsh. Never ending steep snow slopes. | Scree climb to C1. Ugly BC on boulder field but great views of Cho Oyu | Physical and mental pressure towards end of climb. Long time away. Icefall can be risky but awesome |
| Unique aspect of the mountain or climb | great views, big crevasses, wonderful climb for first snow and glacier experience | incredible views of Alaska. Flight onto Kahiltna Glacier. True snow Camping with snow walls, trapped in tent for days! | A true Himalayan mountaineer’s mountain with rock, ice, snow, altitude and Sherpas! Wonderful base Camp environment. | High altitude with snow and not a lot of logistics. Argentinean culture is special | The best mountain views in the world (imho). Great satisfaction reaching each Camp. And, of course, K2 is next door! | Seeing Tibet. An 8,000M mountain. Easy approach. Views of Everest from true summit | A true expedition, long time, fixed ropes, Lhotse Face, South Col, Summit night. A lifetime experience |
| Rainier (14,410′) | Denali (20,320′) | Ama Dablam (22,494′) | Aconcagua (22,902′) | Broad Peak (26,401) | Cho Oyu (26,907′) | Everest (29,031′) |
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