Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Lhotse 2015
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Since I started climbing in 1992 I have climbed on peaks around the world, from Colorado to K2, which I summited in 2014 at age 58. These pages cover my climbs beyond Everest and the 7 Summits, with trip reports, dispatches, FAQs and photos. See all of my climbs.
Lhotse 27,940 feet 8516 meters
I attempted Lhotse twice, 2015 and 2016, both times without summits. As always, I used my attempt to bring awareness to Alzheimer’s Disease.
A Personal Commitment
The day my mom, Ida, asked me “Who are you?” was the day my life changed forever. I made a personal commitment to do everything I could to make a difference in finding a cure for Alzheimer’s. I began to dedicate my climbs to raise awareness about AD: no cure, always fatal, not a part of normal aging. Thus far, thanks to many of you, we have reached 50 million people and raised $250,000 for Alzheimer’s research.
But there is so much more to be done, more I can do. Please visit the donations page to consider a contribution to one of the non-profits I support.
Project 8000
With my summits of Everest, K2 and Manaslu, I have set an ambitious goal to summit the remaining 11 of the 14 8000 meter mountains over the next five years. Through my climbs, I hope to reach 100 million people, and make a difference in the fight against Alzheimer’s through raising awareness, promoting the desperate need for joining clinical trails and raising $1 million for research.
If I’m successful, I would become only the second American to summit all 14, following in the steps of Ed Viesturs – though in astyle more sutiable to a 60 eyar-old than a 30 year-old at the time. Also, I might be the oldest American to summit many given I’m 60 now. Read more on Project 8000 including the schedule.
Lhotse
I feel like I have climbed Lhotse four times already, just not to the summit as it shares 80% of the same route used to summit Everest. I will fly into Katmanduin early April, make the life-changing trek to Everest Base Camp and begin my acclimatization rotations before attempting to summit Lhotse in mid to late May.
In 2016, I clibmed with Phil Crampton’s Altitude JunkiesEverest team, but I’m the only one on Lhotse from his group. I summited Manaslu and Alpamayo with Phil previously. In 2015, I clmbed with Masdison Moutnaineering. Both times, I was also thrilled beyond words to have Kami Sherpa (Ang Chhiring Sherpa – Pangboche) climb with me. I summited Everest in 2011 with Kami as well as K2 in 2014.
Lhotse is known as a “technical” climb meaning you need to use protection, climbing gear and full on hands and feet to gain the summit.
The real crux of climbing Lhotse is the final 300 meters or last 1,000 feet. Once leaving the Camp 3 at 23,500 feet on the Lhotse Face, I will cross the Yellow Band and then turn right continuing straight up the Face instead of contouring across the Geneva Spur to the South Col as I did on my Everest summit climb. We will make camp at 25,750 feet or 7850 meters on the snow covered steep slopes of Lhotse. It is almost 2,200 feet to the summit on 50 to 60 degree slopes.
Leaving early the next morning, we will climb about 400 feet eventually reaching the bottom of the Lhotse Couloir, a narrow, rock filled gully that leads to the summit that is only 9 feet wide in some spots. This is the most challenging part of a Lhotse climb and will require every mountaineering skill I have obtained on my previous 37 expeditions. I will stem off the rocks, scramble and full on rock climb the final sections. Lhotse’s summit is a small rock block that is often covered in snow making it dangerous.
The return involves rappelling and arm rapping back to Camp 4 or Camp 2 where I will spend the night. The entire summit push will take 7 days. Thanks to Ellen Miller for the Lhotse photographs.
Climb On!
Alan
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