Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Elbrus
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2011 Climb Dispatches: Vinson 2010 | Aconcagua 2011 | Everest 2011 | Denali 2011 | Elbrus 2011 | Kilimanjaro 2011 | Carstensz 2011 | Kosciuszko 2011
I climbed seven of the eight Seven Summits in 2010/11. It took 18 airlines, 58 flights, 116,112 miles flown, 120 time zones and 201 nights away from home over 322 days to raise awareness and research funds for Alzheimer’s, and to honor my mom, Ida Arnette, who was taken by this disease in 2009. Read the 7 Summits overview.
Summited August 11, 2011
Europe: Elbrus (18,513'/5642m)
Mount Elbrus is an extinct volcano in the Caucasus Main Range, the European border with Asia in southern Russia. Mt. Elbrus has two main summits – the western summit at 18,513’/5642m and the eastern summit at 18,442’/5621m.The first ascent of the west peak was in 1829 by a Russian army team and the east in 1874 by an English team. Mont Blanc is sometimes consider the highest in Europe but Elbrus technically holds that honor.
The normal climbing season is May to September. The climb is quite short by 7 Summits standards taking less than a week at most. I will be climbing from the north side using a base camp and a High Camp from where we will launch the summit bid. This side offers more of a climbing experience and is significantly less crowded.
The standard route on Elbrus’ south is technically easy and includes a cable car up to the 12,500′ level. It is snow slope from there to the summit. Climber stay in ‘huts’ which are single room, rock walled building with tin roofs at 12,700′ and/or the Barrel Huts, 13,600′, which are, well, huge barrels. A snow-cat is reported to be available for climbers who want a ride even higher – up to 15,750. It is common to have over 100 climbers going for the summit in a single day in July.
As with most mountains that have a reputation for being easy, they are also deadly and Elbrus is no exception. About 25 climbers die each year due to ill-preparedness or the weather. It can be extremely cold and windy. However literally thousands of people have summited Elbrus included a Soviet team in 1956 of 400 climbers!
The second highest mountain in Europe, Dychtau in Russia at 17,077’/5205m and is 40 miles southeast of Elbrus. It considered a very dangerous and technical climb with the main peak accessible from a steep and narrow ridge from the adjacent saddle.
Elbrus Resources:
Memories are Everything®
Alan Arnette is an Alzheimer’s advocate for individuals, their families and anyone impacted by this disease through his professional speaking, climbing and website.
His objectives for the Memories are Everything® climbs are:
- Educate the public, especially youth, on the early warning signs and how to prepare
- Increase awareness that Alzheimer’s Disease has no cure
- Raise research money for Alzheimer’s non-profits
He has completed two major projects:
- NO CURE, always fatal
- No easy, inexpensive method of early detection
- 3rd leading cause of death in the US
- New case every 68 seconds, 4 seconds worldwide
- Impacts more than 5+m in US, 25m+ worldwide
- Devastating financial burden on families
- Depression higher for caregivers
- Issues are increasing rapidly as population ages
The Alzheimer’s Immunotherapy Program of Janssen Alzheimer Immunotherapy and Pfizer Inc. funded my climbs for the 7 Summits campaign and ongoing efforts between November 2010 and November 2012. All money I raised then and now from donations goes directly to the organizations I have selected. During the campaign, content posted here was my own but subject to certain limitations in conjunction with the support of the AIP.
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