Broken Leg Update: A Year Later and Future Climbing Plans

It’s hard to believe that one year ago today on February 10, 2017, that a rogue wind gust blew me into a field of rocks breaking my leg in three places and crushing my nasal cavity. Thanks to Jim Davidson, Rocky Mountain National Park Rangers, Boulder Mountain Rescue and Larimer County Search and Rescue, I […]
Discontent on K2, Nanga Anger and Everest Patience

Another member of the K2 Polish team was injured by rockfall. This one was more serious and he will be evacuated to Skardu. The weather watch continues on Everest and Elizabeth Revol has some harsh words for some of the organizations involved in her rescue. See this post for full background on the K2 and […]
Injury on K2, Everest Summit Push Next Week

A member of the K2 Polish team was injured by rockfall. While serious, he will continue climbing. Over on Everest, they remain locked down at base camp waiting out the weather but hope to start the summit push next week. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history […]
Everest: A Race to be the Most Expensive Guide

This is a headline I never thought I would write. Seven Summits Treks (7ST), a solid Sherpa owned and operated guide company out of Kathmandu, made a seriously surprising announcement this week. 7ST made their name catering to the emerging middle class in India and China by charging less than half, and sometimes one-third, of […]
Historic K2 and Everest Winter Climbs Staying Patient

Winds continue to keep climbers in place or being very careful with limited acclimatization rotations. The forecast doesn’t look great for either K2 or Everest but there are days with low winds that may be suitable for some progress. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of […]
K2 and Everest Winter Climbs Back in Business

The winter climbs of K2 and Everest were progressing normally but with the recent rescue on Nanga Parbat, the activity paused to help out. Now that Elisabeth Revol is recovering in a hospital and the Polish K2 rescue team is back at base camp, the on-mountain activity has picked back up. See this post for full […]
Winter Climbs: K2, Everest and Wind

The death of Polish climber Tomek Mackiewicz and the rescue of French climber Elisabeth Revol by the Polish K2 team had followers at the edge of their seat over the past five days as once again the world’s attention was focused on high-altitude mountaineering. Now the K2 team is trying to regroup and over on […]
Nanga Parbat: 1 Saved, 1 Lost and the Spirit of Mountaineering is Strong

By now, the story is well known and earning global headlines in both the mountaineering and mainstream press. Two climbers joined together to attempt the world’s ninth highest peak, Nanga Parbat at 8,126-meters/26,660 feet. They got in trouble descending from 8000-meter level and life and death decisions were made. Tomek Mackiewicz‘s dream was to summit Nanga in […]
Miss Elizabeth Hawley Dies at 95

A legend in mountaineering who never climbed a single peak, passed away in Kathmandu yesterday at age 95. Miss Elizabeth Hawley was a legend. Full stop. I met her several times in Kathmandu, most recently after my 2013 climb of Manaslu. She was feisty, curious and smart. The first time I met her was in […]
Disaster Developing on Nanga Parbat, K2 Team to Launch Rescue – Update 4

Many media outlets and multiple press reports plus posts on Facebook are describing a developing disaster scenario on Nanga Parbat for Polish climber Tomek Mackiewicz. He and his French climbing partner Elisabeth Revol were on their summit bid in a tiny weather window when Mackiewicz developed frostbite and snowblindness. There has also been a mention of injury, but that […]