Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's

Broken Leg Update: One Month Out

It was four weeks ago to the minute that a wind gust tossed me around like a piece of paper on Twin Sisters Peak. A heroic effort by my climbing partner, Jim Davidson, SAR teams plus Rangers from RMNP got me to hospitals where after two surgeries, I am now recovering at home. Wow, what […]

Bill Burke: A Study in Tenacity – Over

Bill Burke

Update: March 21, 2107 Bill and team experienced deep snow and brutal cold, similar to what Alex Txikon experienced on Everest a couple of weeks earlier.  He has an excellent write upon his blog  of the decision and his helicopter “mountain tour” near the summit of his mountain on his way out. In Bill’s words: I […]

Alex Txikon’s Everest Winter Summit – OVER

Alex Txikon after summit attempt

Alex Txikon said going on would have been “suicide.”  With a team of five Sherpas he reached Camp 2 on 7th March 2017 from the Nepal side of Everest. They felt the extreme cold and high winds with the same in the forecast for many days and called it quits. Txikon says he will return. Txikon deserves a lot […]

Alex Txikon’s on Final Everest winter Summit Push

Alex Txikon on Lhotse Face

Alex Txikon’s team is back on Everest for what will be their last push to summit Everest in winter. They need to top out by March 20 to claim that prize. LATEST: Their GPS tracker still shows them at Camp 2 as of this post midnight, Wednesday March 7 Everest time. They should be on their way to the […]

Everest 2017: Mountain Madness, the Quiet Comeback

If you say “Mountain Madness”, what comes to mind? Many people will say Scott Fisher and others may bring up Everest 1996. And while not wrong, they might be missing one of the quietest comeback stories in expedition guiding. Now under the leadership of Mark Gunlogson, MM is preparing a return to Everest in 2017 […]

Everest 2017: Last Minute Preparations for Everest

Lobuche for Everest

Now that we have entered March, it time for Everest climbers to get focused, time to get serious about the last minute preparations. Since their dream began, they wondered how this period would feel. They have been saving money, buying gear, training their body but a few important steps remain before boarding that plane for Kathmandu. A longtime […]

Broken Leg: I Don’t Want to be in the Rocks

Twin Sisters Fall

A quick story for those with busy lives. Two friends, Alan Arnette and Jim Davidson, were hiking along a path when the wind blew Alan over and he broke his leg. Jim called 911 and a bunch of people came and got Alan. Today Alan is home and is getting better. The End. While that may be what […]

Everest 2017: Welcome to Everest 2017 Coverage

everest icefall popcorn

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2017 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on 2017 but let me officially welcome you. This will be my 16th season of all-things Everest: 10 times providing coverage, another 4 seasons of actually climbing on Everest and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004,  2005, […]

A Month to Everest 2017

Alan on the summit of Everest May 21, 2011 5:00AM

Late February is an awkward time for aspiring Everest climbers. It is too late to make serious advancements in physical training and too early to eat what you want assuming you will lose weight during the climb. Making serious gear changes is not advised nor is changing guide services. But there is still work to do! […]

Everest winter Attempt Stopped & Restarted

Alex Txikon after summit attempt

Alex Txikon’s team went through quite a bit of drama on their first summit push from hurricane winds at the South Col to an injured Sherpa and an unexpected trip to Kathmandu for the entire team, apparently against Txikon’s wishes. All that said, the team will return to Everest Base Camp this upcoming week and push once again to stand […]