Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's

Recent Climbing Updates

Leaving for Antarctica. Courtesy of Madison Mountaineering

With winter now officially here, we are seeing some ambitious climbs begin on Everest, Manalsu, and even Nanga Parbat. So here’s a quick round-up of some of the more interesting activities.

Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2022 edition

Everest Routes

For 98% of all Everest climbers, the choice of routes comes down between the Northeast (Tibet) and Southeast (Nepal) Ridges. For most everyone, all other routes are too dangerous, too difficult and not commercially guided. This post will take a look at the various routes and go deep into the most popular commercial ones through 2021.

How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? – 2022 Edition

As we get closer to Everest 2022, I’ve updated my annual post of “How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest?” Prices have risen on both sides, and there is price parity on the Tibet and Nepal sides. Also, I look at some of the most expensive options – it’s shocking!

Everest by the Numbers: 2022 Edition

Everest Summits Bar Chart 1953-2021

I’ve updated my annual “Everest by the Numbers” blog post. I looked at summit and death rates, the use of oxygen and its impact on summits and deaths, and disturbing trends like the increasing support for climbers. Everest is looking more like Kilimanjaro each season.

Recent Climbing News

Ama Dablam west face “American Direct Route” Courtesy of Utmost

We are in the saddle season for the big mountains – 8000ers post-monsoon in Nepal and anticipated winter climbs this winter. So here’s a quick round-up of some of the more interesting recent activities.

Video Interview with Rebecca ‘Becks’ Ferry: Six 8000ers in Six Months

Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry

I caught up with British climber Rebecca ‘Becks’ Ferry to discuss her amazing 2021 climbs on six 8000-meter mountains. This British mother of five children ages 12 to 18 had limited high altitude experience, with summits on Island Peak and Ama Dablam, but deep inside, she wanted to try the hard ones saying, let’s begin with K2!

Deaths on Chimborazo

A rare deadly avalanche on Ecuador’s highest peak, Chimborazo at 20,549-feet/6,263-meters, took four lives on Sunday, October 24, 2021. An all Ecuadoran team of 12 climbers and guides was approaching the false summit near 6,100-meters when the snow gave way. One person was injured. Another group of 20 required assistance. The incident occurred at 6:30 in the morning as reported by Emergency organization Integrated Security Service ECU911. The mountain is closed for climbers at the moment.

Video Interview with Jon Gupta: 7 Himalayan Climbs in 2021

Jon Gupta on K2

I caught up with British climbing Guide, Jon Gupta of Mountain Expeditions to discuss his amazing 2021 where he guided mostly one client, fellow Brit Rebecca ‘Becks’ Ferry on six 8000-meter mountains. He also climbed a 7000er with a friend and is now on Ama Dablam. Overall he climbed (the time the discussion starts in the video)

Everest (Summit) at 19:50
Lhotse (Summit) at 22:00
Makalu (reached 7500m)
K2 (Summit) at 25:05
Pobeda (reached 7200m)
Manaslu (Fore Summit ~8160m) at 40:00
Dhaulagiri (reached 7817m) at 36.09
Ama Dablam – TBD

Autumn 2021 Himalayan Season: The Future of Manaslu

Manaslu summit , 2013

With the 2021 Autumn climbing season winding down, questions are re-emerging as to the future classification of summit. This is not new, but with Manaslu taking center stage, it has gained momentum. Meanwhile, we should see a summit push soon on Kangchenjunga.