Denali 2021: Season RoundUp
The 2021 climbing season on North America’s highest peak, Denali, is nearing the end. I take a look at some “fun facts” and how this season has progressed.
Everest 2021: Video Interview with Art Muir – Oldest American Summiter
Art Muir at age 75 became the oldest American to summit Mt. Everest on May 12, 2021, with Madison Mountaineering. He surpassed Bill Burke who held the American Everest age record for 11 years. Burke summited at age 67 on the Nepal side and again from the Tibet side in 2014 at 72. Japanese mountaineer Yoichiro Miura is the oldest person to summit in 2013 at age 80.
I spoke with Art about his motivation, how his family felt about his plans, his 2019 attempt, prior climbing experience then we got into his training, diet, and experience on the climb. We wrapped up with Art’s thoughts on seniors climbing and staying active.
K2 2021: Interview with Graham Zimmerman – West Ridge
This summer K2 will see a rare event, an attempt on the fully unclimbed West Ridge. Canadian Ian Welsted and American Graham Zimmerman will make an alpine attempt with no oxygen. While the route has been partially climbed three times, the final few hundred meters have never been completed for various reasons. They leave for Pakistan on June 17. After an extensive acclimatization program which may include climbing the 8000er Broad Peak, they hope to summit near the end of July.
Everest 2021 Season Summary: The Year Nepal Broke Everest
Satire sprinkled with a few annoying facts.
As I sat down to write a recap of the 2021 spring season on Everest, these words came to mind: COVID, coverup, lies, misdirection, personal attacks, denials. Oh, and cyclones, wind, waiting, risk, and yes, summits. But, oh my, at what a cost? If 2019 was the year Everest broke, 2021 was the year Nepal broke Everest.
Everest 2021: Wave 6 Recap. And the Season is a Wrap!
A reported 41 people (22 members with 19 Sherpa) summited on Tuesday, June 1 ending the season. Others canceled for various reasons from health to conditions. Heavy snow stopped additional Lhotse summits. By my count: 195 members with 339 Sheras thus far, for a total of 534 summits. The season should be over now with the Icefall Doctors closing the route on June 3.
Everest 2021: More Summit Bids Underway. Wave 6
After a reported 28 people (10 members with 18 Sherpa) summited on Monday, May 31, a few final teams are underway. Also more details on the C3 situation re: avalanches. By my count: 167 members with 284 Sheras thus far, for a total of 451 summits.
Everest 2021: Summits on May 31 – Wave 5
A reported 16 people (6 members with 10 Sherpas) took a gamble and summited on Monday, May 31 at 7:00 am. They evaluated the risky avalanche conditions after feet on fresh snow and used their powerful Sherpa resources to break the trail for their clients to the top. Well done by all and congratulations on dodging the ball.
Everest 2021: Weekend Update plus Final Summit Bid
This was a tough week on Everest with Cyclone Yaas pummeling the Hill with heavy snow. Most teams have wisely ended their season but one or two are still pulling their clients higher. Thankfully, the Cyclone appears to have moved on.
Everest 2021: Weather Relents, Unclear Plans
Heavy snow has finally ended but there is talk of avalanches, stolen oxygen and the Icefall Doctors extending maintaining the route a few more days. Dan Mazur of Summit Climb made news with a dramatic post telling that Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face was destroyed by an avalanche. His source was an unnamed Sherpa: […]
Everest 2021: Weather Hold
Heavy snow continues on Everest, but a couple of teams at C2 hoping for a summit window from May 29-31.
Garrett Madison tells me from Base Camp around 10 am Friday, May 28, “Snowing hard here in EBC..climbers worried now about too much snow & avalanche danger on the Lhotse face…SPCC closing the icefall May 31, if climbers stay longer up high they might need to helicopter out from C2”