Everest 2021: Will Record Everest Permits Put the No O’s Climbers at Risk?
Up to a foot of heavy snow at Everest Base Camp brought climbing to a halt the last 36 hours. Teams will let the snow settle for a day or so before heading higher for acclimatization starting this weekend. Record permits, now approaching 400 will guarantee crowding unless the weather is significantly better than usual. But with more people not using O’s, are they at greater risk?
Author Interview: Mark Synnott – The Third Pole
Why would a world-class big wall climber who had zero interest in the Mallory & Irvine Everest story go there in 2019 to look for his body? Author Interview: Mark Synnott – The Third Pole. It’s another great book that weaves history and modern-day technology to investigate the greatest mountaineering mystery.
Everest 2021: More Silly Rules from Nepal as Team Enter Western Cwm
Climbing continues on Everest but Nepal just issued new rules as to who can climb when. Incredibly late as teams are in the midst of their expedition planning. Also, teams are starting their acclimatization rotations with some at Camp 1 in the Western Cwm.
Everest 2021: Interview with Everest Guide Mike Hamill on Base Camp Luxuries
I caught up with Everest Guide Mike Hamill owner of Climbing The Seven Summits (CTSS) live at EBC to discuss Base Camp luxuries for #Everest2021.
CTSS was founded by Mike after years of serving as a lead guide for another major company. He has a loyal following of clients and has set long-term goals to be a significant player in the global mountaineering market. Mike’s vision is to meet his client’s needs and expectations and appears to be a leader, not a follower when it comes to base camp services. While some people may not understand this level of service at a place like Everest Base Camp, Mike feels it’s entirely appropriate as he explains in the interview.
Everest 2021: Avalanche Stops Climbing – Update 1
The 2021 spring Everest season continues pretty much on track in spite of a few developments. The climbing permits issued by Nepal are approaching the 2019 record numbers so look for crowds similar to 2019 in the usual spots. The weather has been pretty normal as well. An avalanche off the West Shoulder of Everest made a direct hit on the Khumbu Icefall blocking the route on Tuesday, April 20, 2021. The Icefall Doctors suggest it will take five days to repair.
Author Interview: Jim Davidson – The Next Everest
The regular readers of my blog and social media don’t need an introduction to Jim Davidson. We met in 2001 and have been great friends and climbing partners almost ever since. I consider him a mentor who has taught me a lot about ice and rock climbing, general mountaineering, and life. Recently I had the […]
Everest 2021: Weekend Update April 18
Everest Base Camp is quickly filling up. Sherpas are busy establishing and stocking Camps 1 and 2. Thus far the fixed ropes have been set to the Yellow Band around 24,000-feet. As previously noted, there are few trekkers this spring so the teahouses and trails feel empty to those I’ve spoken with. Internet at EBC is sketchy at best. There is one 40-person Chinese national team on the Tibet side, otherwise, it’s closed to foreigners. They established their base camp this past week.
Annapurna 2021: Summits! – Update 4
After running out of rope the night before, it appears Annapurna saw 68 summits the night of April 16, 2021. By any measure, it was a record night for the deadliest 8000er. The deadliest metric will drop dramatically assuming everyone descends safely.
The weather continues to be a concern, not current but previous with a dry winter of little snowfall making the Lhotse Face rock hard blue ice. We are seeing this on Annapurna with a summit bid underway. Unexpected hard ice above Camp 4 caused the Sherpas to use more rope than they carried and they ran out. More was helicoptered in from Kathmandu, a first to my knowedge.
Everest 2021: Interview with Everest Climber Eric Gran from Loboche
Video interview with Everest Climber Eric Gran from Dingboche. This is Eric’s first trip to Nepal and he describes the journey thus far for #everest2021.
Everest 2021: First Steps in the Icefall
The first few climbers have made rotations to Camp 1 while the rest of the teams at Everest Base camp are preparing to enter the Khumbu Icefall for the first time this season. The permits for Everest continue to grow, now 321 on 34 teams approaching the 219 record of 382. Lhotse has an astounding 83 on 9 teams. Look for over 700 people on the routes this spring.
The weather continues to be a concern, not current but previous with a dry winter of little snowfall making the Lhotse Face rock hard blue ice. We are seeing this on Annapurna with a summit bid underway. Unexpected hard ice above Camp 4 caused the Sherpas to use more rope than they carried and they ran out. More was helicoptered in from Kathmandu, a first to my knowedge.