Everest 2019: Update on Everest Rescue Scams and China “New” Rules
With the spring Everest climbing season only six weeks away, the well-publicized insurance fraud in Nepal heats back up while China seems intent on taking more control of their side of the Big E. Insurance Fraud and Insurance Threats I covered in great depth last August in this post but the gist of it was […]
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Progress
Excellent progress on K2 over the weekend with both teams moving well but more bad weather in the forecast including wind chills of -108F!! K2: Progress and Waiting K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Progress Four climbers, Abildaev, Aubakirov, Danichkin and Pivtsov, of the The Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan team climbed above the Black Pyramid and left a […]
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 and Nanga Stalled by Weather
More big winds and snow are causing slow, if any, progress on these two Pakistan 8000-meter peaks. One teams feels they might not go for the summit until early march. K2: Reinforcements K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – More Money The Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan team has received a boost in funding from their […]
Does Ecuador Replace Nepal for Best 20,000-foot Climbs?
I just returned from a rewarding trip to Ecuador to climb three of their volcanoes. I went with US-based, Mountain Madness. While this was my seventh trip to South America, it was my first to Ecuador and now I see what I’ve been missing! I’ve been climbing and going to Nepal 13 times since 1997. […]
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Stalled, Nanga Regroup
Progress on K2 and Nanga Parbat feels stalled as the winter clock continues to advance. Teams are in their respective base camps either recovering from rotations or waiting for good weather. Injuries have taken six members thus far from the collective K2 efforts. K2: Climbers Injured, Weather Delays K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – […]
Ecuador 2019: Climbing the Volcanoes: Final Trip Report
Climbing three volcanoes in Ecuador was a pleasant, rewarding experience. One that I would repeat. I found Ecuador to be filled with a rich history, friendly people, great scenery, challenging climbs with convenient access and quite affordable. We climbed three of their 32 volcanoes located on the mainland: Cayambe 18,997 feet/5790 meters, Cotopaxi 19,348 feet/5897 meters, […]
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Progress, No Manaslu, Nanga Fragments
There is progress on K2 but clarification that the two teams are working independently. Locals quit on Nanga and avalanches end Manaslu effort. The winter clock continues to advance. K2: Climbers Injured, Weather Delays K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Sleep at C2/6800m The Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan team is back at K2 Base […]
Ecuador 2019: Climbing the Volcanoes: Chimborazo “Summit”
Chimborazo proved to be the toughest of the three climbs this week. We got very near the summit of 20,703-feet/6,310-meters, it was the highest of the three. Here is the story: As we got up at 11 pm last night, Jan 27, the view of the stars from the High Camp on Chimborazo was breathtaking. […]
Ecuador 2019: Climbing the Volcanoes: Cotopaxi Summit!!!
Our Mountain Madness team summited Cotopaxi, 19,348-foot/5897-meters, around dawn this morning January 25, 2019. It was a good climb with everyone making it except for one member who sprained an ankle on Cayambe and stayed in the hut. As is normal for these climbs, we left the hut at midnight to climb in the early morning […]
Ecuador 2019: Climbing the Volcanoes: Cotopaxi Up Next
As I wrote in the last blog, Cayambe iced us off the upper slopes so now Cotopaxi is up next. After Cayambe, we returned to heal and regroup at Hacienda Rumiloma outside of Quito. We had a great dinner with Ossy, Amber and their family at a local Sushi restaurant, yes Sushi!! Yesterday, Wednesday, January 23, we […]