I leave for my first rotation to the high camps in about 12 hours. We will get up abut 3:00 AM for a breakfast of toast and a single fried egg, maybe a cup of coffee. Then along with our personal Sherpa we will pass the puja alter and through the smoke from burning juniper. Next is a stop at crampon point at the base of the Khumbu icefall to put on our crampons. From there it is 2000′ through the labyrinth of moving ice and finally into the West end of the Western Cwm. It will still take another hour to reach Camp 1 which is about 19, 500′.
I asked Kami how long he took the other day and he said 2.5 hours. Then I said how long for us, and he said 4.5 hours. I will be thrilled to be there in 6! However, I am only keeping track to monitor my improvement in future rotations and I am not in competition with anyone – been there, done that. I appreciate the IMG approach of going slowly and safely. Of course there are times when speed is required for safety and I feel prepared when those times arise. But this is not the time to burn myself out. By the way, I fell back to my old self and am at 100%.
I have been gone from home for about 4 weeks now. The entire expedition is about 8 weeks. As I was thinking abut this halfway mark, the number 8 stuck in my mind. My mom lived with Alzheimer’s for 8 years. At her half way mark, life became difficult as she began the crossing from being in control to living in the moment. It was difficult and helpless to watch but for her it was the beginning of the end.
This is what the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything is all about. I appreciate all your comments on this blog. I read each one and consider them deeply. I wish I could reply to each of you personally. But please know your thoughts and comments make an immense difference to me and your support of Alzheimer’s research and caregivers matter the most.
I will send a post from Camp 1!
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
21 thoughts on “Entering the Western Cwm”
Dear Alan…
Your expedition is going wonderfully and I am really enjoying the updates. Glad you are back to 100% and are headed up the beast! Sadly, like you, some of us no longer have our parents with us. I know you would rather have your mom back with you, but because you don’t, you are able to go and do things like The Seven Summits/Memories Are Everything expedition and raise awareness throughout the world. Because your mom has passed, you can take her to the summit with you. And I am sure….I am POSITIVE…that there is no other place she would have rather been, than with you. Climb on friend, you are AWESOME!
Best to you Alan…I have followed you for years now and am still so enjoying living vicariously through your wonderful reports! So look forward to each one. Glad to know you are feeling better and I pray that you will go over the balcony! Be safe!
Go for it Alan This begins the sharp edge of the trip
All the best
I think of you daily and pull big Raiki energy for you
DrDave
Alan, I’m quite sure that no one who is following your climb is worried about you responding to our posts. Just stay healthy and keep climbing, man. Your dedication to your Mom and your work on Alzheimer’s is well noted; my Mom has dementia too, bless her wonderful heart.
Thanks for keeping us posted on your experiences. I get on your blog every day. Here’s hoping you reach the ultimate: 29,035.
Kat
Looking forward to the camp 1 report!
Hi Alan,
I have been following your progress keenly. You are doing well, Take Care & God Bless.
MCS
follow you every year,
it’ great to see you clime this mountain again. your one of the living heros.
stay that way…..
greatings from a back yard in holland.
clime on……………
Alan, well done on the efforts to date. We trekked to Base Camp about 4 weeks ago (no further!) so I’m really enjoying reading your updates from the area – would love to be joining you. And superb effort on your Alzheimer’s fundraising, a great job.
Glad to hear you’re ok Alan, enjoy the climb
Alan…great job and good idea to go with Greg to med tent in base camp. Ryan had the same situation and a Z pack did the job for him…even good for lower GI problems. Have a great climb to C1…no worry on speed and just get it done….stay warm too! You’re in the rotation cycle and doing great. “One step at a time!!!!!”
Enjoy the ladders,
John
🙂
Excellent that you are feeling better and can make this 1st rotation round. Good luck, Alan! With you in spirit…
You guys are hardcore, I would be thrilled with 8 hours for the first time in the icefall.
Alan, I am learning so much about Nepal, the Sherpas, climbing, and about the drive to succeed, even if we don’t “finish.” Life is all about the journey, not reaching the goal/end/finish line. Thank you for allowing me to journey with you. To paraphrase you, Journey on!
Tears!…Memories are every thing good and bad.Our elders have so much to share.There will be a cure,so thanks to those whom do not give up or give in to the damage Alz. can do.It is like climbing everest some make it to the top some do not but all who are there try,try,and try.So here’s to Alan may we neverest(just put the n before everest is my new saying for the cure for alzheimers)Rock on!!
Alan, what you are doing is fantastic! Wishing you a healthy, successful expedition from Toronto, Canada. Dean
Be safe in the icefall and have a great climb. Also, I’m really enjoying any and all references to the Sherpa. This is one of my favorite elements of Everest literature. Kami sounds awesome.
Good luck, Alan on getting to Camp 1. Hope that bug does not come back 🙂
Hope the icefall goes well & shout out to Kami!
Good luck Alan, we wish you strength and speed. We are with you in spirit.
Alan, I like the fact that you are mature in that you are only in competition with yourself. Congratulations on that symbolic half way point.
Good luck with the rest of your climb, say “hi” to 8848m for me ;o)
Stay Safe Alan!
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