but THE ladder” width=”225″ height=”169″ />As I left my left my tent at 3:30 AM this morning, I could see the flames from the juniper boughs. Breakfast was a fast ordeal as was dressing, packing and a final gear review.
With a handful of rice each, Kami and I passed through the smoke. He chanted an ancient Tibetan prayer and sent equal parts of rice airborne three times. As would become the pattern for the next 6 hours, I followed his lead.
Today we climbed through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 in the Western Cwm, also known as the Valley of Silence. We attached our Crampons at Crampon Point. I set my watch to record the time and pushed the buttons on my SPOT locator to send my current and ongoing GPS coordinates to my Blog. Kami had no need for such modern distractions.
The lower section of the Icefall was crowded – climbers and Sherpas sharing the route with the Sherpas and their 100lb loads moving twice as fast as many climbers with their daypacks.
I felt good. Happy to be climbing. Satisfied to be in the environment. Motivated to make progress.
The Icefall was as advertised this year, few ladders and a somewhat straight route. The Popcorn area however had the traditional towering ice towers, narrow ice canyons and house-sized ice cubes that if any of these moved could mean instant death or injury. We moved fast through these sections.
The crowds thinned out as we gained altitude. I looked up to see the remnants of a tent perched on ice tower. Probably destroyed in a storm years ago at Camp 1, it was making its way down the Khumbu.
I continued to feel good overall but also began to feel the tiring mixture of altitude and continuous activity. I refused to look at my watch. My time would reflect my effort. Full stop.
We reached the top of the Icefall upon warnings from almost every Sherpa we passed. When we saw it, we paused. The crevasse separating the top of the Icefall and the end of the Western Cwm was 40 feet wide and 150 feet deep. More house ice cubes covered its floor.
The ladders designed to facilitate our crossing were in place but for 12 small inches, the end dangling in space. Somehow the ladders had shifted or slipped or the Icefall had moved sufficiently to require an Olympic dismount to successfully exit the ladders.
Kami went first while another Sherpa held the safety lines taught. His expression betrayed his concern. I went next just as the morning thermals created a steady cross wind.
Focusing my gaze on the ladder rungs I took each step carefully. Kami monitored my progress. In mid beam, both Sherpas began to talk in a very excited tone. I came to a complete stop and looked back, then at Kami. I have no idea what they were saying and was better off not knowing as I continued across the ladders.
Upon reaching the end, I saw that not only must I step a foot across thin air from a dangling ladder but also vertically another foot and a half to reach the safety of the Western Cwm.
I adjusted both hands on the safety ropes, pulled them as tight as dared; and with one motion at 19,000′ made the leap hoping my crampons would not catch one of the many loose ropes.
Kami never smiled or said a word as I made a perfect landing, and neither did I. We simply clipped into the next line and an hour later were at Camp 1. I had hoped to make it in 6 hours and arrived at my tent in five and half.
It is cloudy now – and cold as my fingers are starting feel the hash environment of one of the highest valleys on Earth. We can see the Lhotse face and both the South and true summit of Everest.
Some views are worth the trip!
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
19 thoughts on “Wobbly Ladders to Camp 1”
Hi Alan,
Climb on man. Is Zachary Z on the team with you? Is your team still planning on hitting the summit about May 17th or will you be running a little behind? Keep up with the weather and the wind. Breathe deep. Larry Z.
Dang! That sounded scary! Maybe you could get a pic of it? Its probably just going to get bigger. Love reading the posts Alan.Be safe,know that we’re pulling for you.
Way to focus and not let your emotions and anxieties get the better of you! I loved the part where neither you nor Kami said a word and just clipped into the next line. I can only imagine how you both felt. Did you ever learn what they were saying? 🙂
I have been following your blog the for last year and i must compliment you on your writing style which makes all your posts a pleasure to read.
I am going to keenly follow your progress and wish you all the best in your efforts to make the ascent.
Alan, I actually got out my ruler and used it to imagine the step you took to advance to the Western Cwm. All I can say is, DANG, MAN!
You made it. That’s what matters.
Great minute-by-minute play-by-play. Stay safe and keep climbing!
Kat
Great Job Alan!! The ice fall is hard but if you are taking the south col route be careful of the Hillary Step, can be very deceiving. Think of me on the top please. Best of luck and hope you are successful.
Kami is in the zone amazing
Good time
that crevasse sounds scary
DrDave
Great job, Allen — all that jugglery in the last phase of Icefall. Good you made it safe with all that load on you.
The Khumbu Icefall is in my mind the scariest part of the climb. There are so many obstacles that climbers face on Everest, as I imagine myself training & trying to climb Everest this would be the section that would be way beyond my comfort zone. Good news from Cure Alzheimer’s today, I got a list of 20 plus people who made donation’s in memory of my Mom. Hope that gives you a little extra energy or brings a smile to your face!
Alan…great saturation readings in base camp…you are in great condition and super job first time up to Camp 1…love those tied together ladders…”one step at a time.”
Enjoy the part way jaunt to Camp 2 and get back to base camp for some good rest.
You can be proud of overcoming the “Dahl blat” touristas and keeping on schedule…it will make you tougher for the coming days.
Climb on!
John
🙂
Wish I could be there with you Alan – sort of!!
Wow how scary!!! I get chills just reading your blogs. Hiope you are feeling better and be safe!!!
Thanks for the riveting description. Keep safe, stay warm, and make more memories.
Keep pushing mate, topping out is worth it…..
Well done Alan.
Exciting read there Alan. Way to go on the 5.5 hour climb to C1. Looking forward to hearing more. Climb on!
Whew! Way to go Alan!
Made MY stomach feel queasy! Hope those ladders are adjusted quickly! Congrats on making your time goal. As you say, Climb On!
Whew… I wish Kami had your camera to take pics. Welcome to Camp 1.
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