Let’s start with some encouraging news from Dave Hahn and Eric Simonson on the south side. There has been quite a bit of fresh snow over the past few days – so much so that it stopped some from climbing – go figure!
South Plans
Dave Hahn, climbing for RMI/Eddie Bauer/First Ascent made this post on the RMI Blog:
The route is fixed all the way to 8,000 meters now. Our Sherpa team is going up tomorrow morning up to Camp 2 to check out conditions and see whether it makes sense for them to get on the wall to establish our Camp 3 and Camp 4. There is supposed to be, the next few days, supposed to be calm with continued light snow each day and we are seeing that is a good thing. Then the winds are supposed to come back, the jet stream is supposed to move into the mountains, but briefly, and then we are hoping for a break in conditions after the middle of the month. So it is going to be a little bit of a down time for the climbing team and we are keeping ourselves busy, like I say, with hiking and eating and resting and games. So far so good. Things seemed to have calmed down on Mount Everest.
Eric Simonson, one of IMG’s overall founders, posted:
Greg and Jangbu report that they had a big meeting today at Base Camp with the different teams to review the plan for fixing above South Col. Many different expeditions will be helping to carry 23 loads of rope, anchors, and oxygen to the Col over the next two days, and then 10 of the teams (IMG, AAI, Adventure Consultants, Asian Trek, Patagonian Brothers, Peak Freaks, Jagged Globe, Mountain Trip, Indian, 7 Summits) will be sending a dozen sherpas up to the Col on the 10th. They will try to fix to the Balcony that afternoon, and then to the summit on the 11th.
The Sherpas that went to the Col yesterday report that the Triangular Face up to the Balcony looks pretty good. Some years it has been very rocky, which makes it more difficult, but now it sounds like there is sufficient snow to climb on.
Let me add three more links to complete these South Side updates from Alpine Ascents, Jagged Globe and Peak Freaks. It is clear that the traditional commercial operators have decided to work together to make this Everest season a success as safely as possible like they never have. By the way it appears teams are committed to fixing the ropes to the summit of Lhotse as well. This had put in question due to the excessive rock fall found on that route.
You can tell the climbers are feeing a bit more secure. The blogs have a lighter feel to them and the emails I am receiving are encouraging. But Ian Ridley continues to set the mark, this time with a in-depth look at the Jagged Globe showers at base camp that would make the BBC envious.
Caution
Before I paint too rosy of a picture, let me balance the optimism by stating the obvious – there is still a long time to go before the summit in mountaineering terms, probably 10 to 14 days. The days are getting longer and warmer as we approach summer. And the most dangerous part of any high altitude climb is the decent. So not to put a damper on this post but it is important to understand the risks.
World class climber Ueli Steck, climbing Everest without O’s this season posted today:
Now we all have to wait. I guess this year a summit attempt before May 20 will be unthinkable. Everybody is nervous. Every body up here wants to leave straight away to the summit. It’s the same for me. This is what it means to ascend high mountains: To be , to wait and be ready when the chance is there.
North Side Ready – almost
The North side of Everest appears to be in much better shape than the South this year. There continues to be good snowfall and there have been no reports of rockfall thus far. But as usual, it has been cold and windy – much more so than the south; but again this is absolutely normal.
Phil Crampton reports the upper camps are stocked and acknowledges the hard work of the Sherpas. The Altitude Junkies team is ready for their summit push when the weather allows:
Our Sherpas have now got camp one and camp two fully stocked with oxygen and tents and tomorrow they plan to make a load carry to camp three at roughly 8,300-meters. Hopefully the Tibet Guides finish fixing the ropes to camp three today allowing our guys safe passage.
The expedition is totally dependent on the Sherpas and it would not be possible for us to reach the summit without these hard working guys getting everything ready for us. After two load carries of oxygen to camp three the Sherpas will all return to base camp and take a well deserved rest.
Grant Rawlinson (Axe) gave us a good update on his condition with an nice inside look at how he is maintaining his own “control” through the 2 month expedition. Some good lessons here:
The whole aim of my movement on the lower slopes of Everest while acclimatising is to arrive at my destination in control. I pay little attention to the time it takes me to get there. I prefer to walk or climb alone if possible as I can travel completely at my own pace. If I can arrive 5,6 or 10 hours later and still be taking photo’s/video’s, looking at the scenery and sitting down on arrival to drink tea and chat, I know I am in control. If I arrive and havn’t taken a photo for the last 3 hours, can hardly talk and head straight for the tent then I am not in control, and am overextended. The problem with getting overextended in climbing is that it becomes easy to make mistakes. You stop putting on sunblock when you need to, don’t clip the rope properly, don’t watch your feet and trip on your crampons, stop drinking, all small things but can escalate into big problems later on.
Youth Update
As has become a trend, we have several young climbers attempting Everest this year. Two have been good at keeping us updated. I suggest a look at the blogs of Matt Thornton, 21 and Leanna Shuttleworth, 18, and both from the UK. Well done you two in reaching camp 3 in this difficult year and safe climbing on your summit bids.
By the way, if you are curious about the 13 year-old, Jordan Romero , the young Everest summiter, he went on to summit Vinson in Antarctica last year to become the young person to climb the 7 Summits and now is finishing High School and spreading a message of good health to his fellow youth.
I’m proud of all these young climbers. It is easy to get caught up in the cynical comments about climbing mountains; that they have been “done”, there are no new challenges, you just pay you money and get pulled up, etc. The young climbers are showing that they have what it takes to get out there and take on their own personal challenges. I’m proud of them…
Himex Cancellation Follow-up
Based on your comments and emails, the decision by Russell Brice to cancel his Everest season is top of mind. I have not and will not speculate as to his reason out of total respect for Russell. Also, I won’t speculate on the rational behind those who continue to climb Everest this year. No second guessing either way.
These decisions to advance or re are incredibly complicated and are based on decades of the combined experience of expedition company owners, guides and, most importantly, Sherpas.
Today, Himex posted an update on their website citing the reasons Brice felt it was too dangerous for Himex to continue and addresses their future on Everest. Read it here.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are everything
9 thoughts on “Everest 2012: “Things seemed to have calmed down on Mount Everest””
Alan,
Thanks for such a great site and also for the cause you are advocating
I gather that you may have met my son Cian, who is with the Jagged Globe team attempting Everest at present.
FYI, my father was diagnosed with Alzheimers and after three years of lovaing care from my mother, he died in 1992. My mother died last month, aged 92. She had a good life and lived independently until she was diagnosed with kidney cancer in January this year.
When I say she lived independently, I mean just that – doing her own shopping, cooking, playing bridge competitively in various clubs, going to Mass every day, driving, maintaining the house she has lived in for 30 years and in which she died.
Hello Donal, Yes, I climbed on Denali last year with your son – a wonderful time and great guy to share time on a mountain with. As with your life experiences we all know that cherishing the moment is so important. Thanks for the comment.
Knowing how Russell works on the mountain the key for him is the Sherpas. You will see that it is the first thing that the explanation talks about. For Russell they are like family and he has already had to say good-bye to far too many and set up trust funds for their widows and families. In my experience his genuine concern runs a lot deeper than many of the other operators on the mountain. And saying that, I also respect and understand other’s decision to stay. AND, I think everyone is worried… very worried.
Great perspective Sarah! Thanks for posting. Also, loved your video on your website!! http://www.adventurecoaching.co.nz/
Once again Alan a very sensible and well written blog.It is difficult to write a comprehensive blog when the atmosphere is full of ‘ifs’, ‘buts,’ ‘whys’,’how’s’ when’s and so on.I should imagine that all professional, experienced mountaineers, especially those who together with their Sherpa know when the time and situation is the right time for them to climb Everest. Russell Brice did not need to write a notice to justify his actions but he must have been placed in a situation where he felt he wanted to stop the behind scenes chatter.Attention must now turn to the climbers who are organising their teams ready to have a go at the summit. Axe continues to keep his followers entertained and life at ABC seems a little less tense at the moment. It is so easy for we armchair followers so sit at home and climb mountains in our dreams.I just pray that our mountaineers’ dreams really do come true. Cheers Kate
Alan. No one’s questioning Russel’s decision. We all take our own. For the good. For the bad. That’s how the chips are cast. Whatever’s happened, so be it. Time to look to the immediate future and the reality staring the teams on the mountain. The winds have to drop, decent amount of snow to be had (which had hapnd), conditions don’t deteriorate again etc etc etc. Hoping the season is a good one eventually. Can imagine the stress and the tension to start climbing. Loved the ‘in control’ bit. It was bang on. Self observation at its best. Only those who walk and climb can appreciate it. Meanwhile managed to trace details on the Annapurna
summits. Quite a few summitted. Many turned
back from C3. One Hungarian climber got swept away in an avalanche enroute to C3. And many more details. But I am sure you know all this. Look forward to you next post. Onwards and Upwards. Debolin.
I just finished reading Himex’s reasons for leaving Everest.. They are all really good points… Crazy how warm it’s been there
Zachary Zaitzeff
Is Russel Brice stil lin Base Camp ? How long does he intend to stay? If the S++t hits the fan, there is no one better to manage the situation, but perhaps he wouldn’t want to be placed in that situation. Alan, great work. Thank you
Hey Alan,
Thanks for the update.
Zachary Zaitzeff
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