Everest 2013: Summit Wave 7 Recap and Summit Wave 8: Update 3

Everest Shadow

Update 3

80 year-old Japanese Miura Yiuchiro summits,  setting an age record.

Over 50 summits on reported early Wednesday morning by Asian Trekking Dave Hahn, Benegas Brothers and Tim Mosedale with their remaining teams summits. This was Dave Hahn’s 15th summit, a non-Sherpa record.  Himex put  22 on the summit.

Update 2:

Asian Trekking reports a summit Wednesday morning by Douglas Scarborough and Phurba Sherpa and Ngima Dorji Sherpa . They summited at 5:40AM after leaving the South Col at 7:00 pm last night.

Dave Hahn, Benegas Brothers and Tim Mosedale with their remaining teams are all either on top or above the South Summit.

No updated from Himex yet.

80 year-old Japanese Miura Yiuchiro posted on his Facebook page:

4:00am local, the team is about half way to South summit. Yuichiro’s condition is good. May be 4 more hours to the South summit and another 2 more hours. Weather stable, no wind, Yuichiro’ Condition is good.

Update 1:

Teams are on the way tonight, early Thursday morning in Nepal and Tibet. Dave Hahn, RMI, is climbing tonight. Could be Dave’s 15th summit, a non-Sherpa record. He is with fellow RMI Guide, Seth Waterfall and three Sherpa: Tshering, Kaji and Delgin. The member developed a tough cough and had to descend.


Another good day Wednesday May 22nd. There were summits on both sides.

This weather window has been incredible allowing climbers to reach the summit in overall good conditions. But it is coming to an end and now the remaining teams must be feeling a sense of urgency.

Everest veteran Dave Hahn with 14 summits is climbing and made this post: on their plans to summit today

… the complication is that the weather forecast is kind of breaking down for those days and might be kind of dicey weather – We will have to see. We figure that will be our one chance and so it is up or down for all. Things should be moving around a fair amount for these next couple of days…we will see what happens.

Overall there have been about 500 summits for this season from both sides with another 50 to come keeping 2013 in line with recent years. There have been 8 deaths on both sides.

Wave 7 Recap

Wednesday morning’s good conditions enabled several climbers with unique backgrounds to summit.

There were summits on North Side with Adventure Peaks (14) and Altitude Junkies who put 11 on the summit including Edita Nichols, the first Lithuanian woman to summit.

Melissa Arnot and Tshering Sherpa summited from South. She builds her American women’s record now with 5 summits. Mountain Trip put their member on the summit with four Sherpa.

Carlos Pauner summited thus completing climbing all 14 8000m mountains without supplemental oxygen. Similarly, South Korean Kim Chang-Ho topped out a few days ago becoming the first Korean climber to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen and the first Korean to finished all the 14, 8000meter mountains without using supplemental oxygen. It took him 7 years, 10 months and six days, as noted by the Korean Alpine Federation, breaking the previous record of 7 years, 11 months and 14 days set by Jerzy Kukuczka from Poland.

Alpine Ascent put another 16 on top including the Arabs with Altitde team:

Michael Horst just radioed down that the team is standing on the summit!  They report that the weather is good with some moderate wind and that the views are amazing.  Guides Michael Horst and Vern Tejas, climbers Sheikh Mohammed al Thani, Raed Zidan, and Masoud Mohammed, and cameraman Elia Saikaly are together on the summit joined by our amazing Sherpa; Kami Rita, Phura Temba, Ang Pemba, Lakpa Nuru, Nawang Jangbu, Fura Kancha, and Passang Kajee.  All together, Alpine Ascents has summited another 13 climbers today!

This is a historic moment as Sheikh Mohammed al Thani is the first Qatari to reach the summit of Everest and Raed Zidan is the first Palestinian.
And from the tiny country of Andorra, Domi Trastoy Diaz summited at 8:45AM becoming the first Andorran to summit and making his country very proud!

Wave 8

RMI, Patagonia Brothers, Himex and a few last independents are going for the summit tonight. It will be good to keep an eye on conditions for tonight. I will update once again throughout the day.

Personal Note

With the season winding down, a quick note to say I will do a comprehensive recap of the entire season that looks at all the action, both good and bad., in a few days after the last summit. Also, I will continue to cover the climbing activity around the world on a regular basis, but not as frequently as Everest. if you have subscribed you will see a notice every few weeks but certainly not daily like this month!

Thanks to everyone who has followed along, those who made thoughtful comments, sent me emails but especially to those who made a donation to Alzheimer’s causes.

Please remember that I am just one guy who loves climbing. With 30 serious climbing expeditions including four Everest trips under my belt and a summit in 2011, this site tries to share those experiences, demystify Everest each year and bring awareness to Alzheimer’s Disease. My mom died from this disease a few years ago as did two of my aunts. It was a heartbreaking experience that I never want anyone to go through thus my ask for donations to non-profits where 100% goes to them, and nothing to me. If you are interested in hosting a fund raiser of having me speak at an event, please visit this link.

Please Donate for Alzheimers Today

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

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35 thoughts on “Everest 2013: Summit Wave 7 Recap and Summit Wave 8: Update 3

  1. Hello Alan,

    Wonderful website, but one correction…

    It is not correct to say that Melissa Arnot holds the women’s Everest summit record.

    Lakpa Sherpa has summited 6 times and currently holds the female record with her last summit in 2006. She is a Nepalese climber currently residing in Hartford Connecticut.
    This can be verified not only by a simple google search, but by the official record keeper of Himalayan Mountaineering, Miss Elizabeth Hawley, Director of the Himalayan Database

    Tenzin G

  2. Thanks, Alan, for your blog. Please keep updating me! My brother Mike from Winnipeg climbed Kilimanjaro for the Alzheimer’s Society.
    Your updates give me the understanding and feeling of what it’s really like there. 100 people summitting in one day–guess we haven’t learned much!

  3. Hi Alan,you are the most dedicated climber/reporter ever in history as far I know.
    You are in the hearts of all of us reading your reports and it is much appreciated for enriching our lives daily on the everest climb expeditions.
    At age 69 ,I made my first climb to everest base camp .I now am getting ready for the summit from the Tibet /north side possibly next year.
    Thank you again for all that you do to keep the spirit of climbing strong in all of us
    Best regards to you. Ted papantoniadis

  4. Alan,

    I feel as if you and I have had coffee together every day for the last month. Thank you for your writings.

    $50 to your cause for your labor of love that is my daily fix. And another $50 if you can email me the words “climb higher” in Nepalese. It’s for a tattoo of Mt. Everest that will be part of my inspiration as I train for her. I trust only you to not play the practical joke that is begging to be unleashed.

    Warmest regards and gratitude,

  5. Hi Alan,

    Your coverage has been amazing. I’ve followed the action on other sites in other years and nothing compares to you. I’m a fanatic for K2 (I actually d your mug and tshirt 🙂 ). Are you doing coverage of the K2 action later this year?

    The Alzheimers groups are lucky to have an advocate like you.

    1. Thanks Beth. I will cover K2 but not the same extent as Everest because most teams do not provide consistent updates. Thanks for ing a mug and T-Shirt, a portion of those sales go to Alzheimer’s research.

  6. Donate now folks before you forget!

    Feels even better than just saying thanks 😉

  7. He did it with the help of Nima Gombu sherpa.
    Monique Richard from Quebec, Canada (on the same team )did not summit due to a very bad cough and she has breathing’s problems. Her sherpa was Thenzig sherpa. She was trying to go up Lhotse without oxygene but at 8, 400 meters she was in resporatory difficulty.
    She is now going to Ebc.

  8. Did you mention that Arvid Lahti from Noway did summit on May 20 , ?

  9. Alan,

    This was my first year. I started to follow the Everest climbing season this year. I couldn’t have asked for a better person to help me and guide me through. Looking forward to having more Memories.

    You are born for this. Thanks heaps.


  10. Hi Alan,
    Any word if the 80 year old man from Japan summited? Love your blog, look forward to it every day. Thanks so much, Mary

    1. This is from his facebook page about an hour ago:
      4:00am local, the team is about half way to South summit. Yuichiro’s condition is good. May be 4 more hours to the South summit and another 2 more hours. Weather stable, no wind, Yuichiro’ Condition is good.

        1. They did stay at their camp 5 last night but didn’t indicate where that was – so probably the Balcony was where they stayed. They were planning to leave at 1:30 a.m. local time.

          no, thank YOU, Alan for your awesome coverage. This is the first year I have followed closely and have checked in at your site religiously several times a day. You have really made the armchair experience very special!! Many thanks!

            1. Yuichiro Miura Sumitted 2 Hours Ago
              They have started descending about 50 Mins ago.

              Congrats to Them

              1. Yuichiro has returned to C4 safely 30 minutes ago. Click on the FB links above and if you need to you can get a browser add-on called FB Translate in your browser to translate the Japanese comments and follow his saga
                Huge congrats to Yuichiro for changing the definition of old!!!!!!.

  11. Thanks again for the daily briefing on this year’s Everest saga. Quite certain it’s harder than it looks to parse all the blogs and beta and thrash out an insightful and eminently readable synopsis every morning. Well played. Again.

  12. Thank you Alan for such fantastic work you do…keeping track and updating is work…we lost my grandmother to Alzheimer’s…. my mother took care of her from the beginning until the end…we didn’t have the funds to put her in a home…so I have seen first hand, and completely understand this monster of a disease…. sickening and not fair….but again thank you for all of your hard work for us on the computer or phone instead of being at base camp….

  13. Alan,

    I truly love reading all of your Everest blogs! A highlight of my day during Everest season for sure! Glad to hear Mike Horst (good buddy of mine) and the AAI team were successful. Here’s to one good last batch of weather for Dave & RMI. I had a quick question for you – have you heard anything about Cason Crane? I believe he was with IMG, but have not seen his name on any of their list of summitteers. Kristine & I met him last summer down on Kosciuszko.


  14. I am so sad it is another season coming to an end. You have as usual given us all wonderful exciting reports. As Mitch says that mixing it with your own experiences helps to bring it so much more alive. My climbing days are over but these wonderful accounts stir up memories and together with my Everest Library and pen pals around the world it helps to keep the “old girl” happy.Thanl you Alan. Cheers Kate

  15. Hitting 75 soon, recent spinal surgery, some fear of heights. Think I would make a candidate to summit Everest;-)

  16. Alan,
    Thank you very much for your excellent reporting this season (and in prior seasons as well). Your ability to mix your personal experiences with the real-time events on the mountains puts a unique perspective on your reports, one that you can’t find by reading news reports.

    I’ve been struggling with reconciling the wonderful experiences I’ve had with the Sherpa people on my treks in Nepal and the altercation that occurred below camp 3 earlier in the season. From the extensive reading that you’ve done and the personal experiences that you’ve had do you think that was a one-time occurrence or has climbing Everest become so commercialized that small groups of self-sufficient climbers don’t fit into the “traffic pattern” of moving up and down the mountain any more?

    1. Thanks Mitch. Everest is a huge mountain with many unclimbed, uncrowded and interesting routes. Also climbs in the Autumn offer a different perspective without almost anyone else around! So, I think there is plenty of room for teams of all types. If there was a lesson from this year, imho, it was that respect, patience, cooperation and communication are key to avoiding future conflicts and enabling climbers of all profiles to enjoy the adventure.

  17. Thank you Alan for your great work to update and now I feel without your update . Your update help me to visualise Mt Everest climbing and I am in dream to climb one day.
    Thank you again . Wish you all the best .
    Warm regards


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