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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
May 232013

Everest Shadow

If this was the last night for Everest 2013 summits, advice it was a good one. But I learned a long time ago that just when I think it is over, there are a few more teams sneaking up!

We had over 50 summits Thursday morning.

First up is 80 year-old Japanese Miura Yiuchiro summits, setting an age record. He is an amazing man who I met in 2008 in the Khumbu Icefall. Very friendly and seems to enjoy life to the fullest! By the way, he had multiple injuries from skiing along with some surgeries and then summited Everest for his 3rd time. An inspiration to us all.

 Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall and Tshering, Kaji & Gyaljen, with RMI made the summit. Their member had to descend with a bad cough. This was Dave Hahn’s 15th summit, a non-Sherpa record. 

The team with Patagonia Brothers also summited. And Tim Mosedale made his second summit of the season with his final few members. Also the group from Rolwaling put 15 on the summit.

Himex put  22 on the summit. It seems waiting for the last minute paid off for Mr. Brice!

Asian Trekking put their final few on top.

As I mentioned over the past few days, this weather window seems to be breaking down thus closing the spring season. But we will not know if someone wants to make a last minute attempt until the Icefall is closed by the Doctors. But there is still work to be done by all the teams to break down the high camps thus the Icefall will be open for another week. On the North, there is no real closure so it is the start of the monsoons that effectively closes that side. There are some small independent teams who might still make push.

I continue to update this blog through my final update.

Personal Note (repeat from yesterday)

With the season winding down, a quick note to say I will do a comprehensive recap of the entire season that looks at all the action, both good and bad., in a few days after the last summit. Also, I will continue to cover the climbing activity around the world on a regular basis, but not as frequently as Everest. if you have subscribed you will see a notice every few weeks but certainly not daily like this month!

Thanks to everyone who has followed along, those who made thoughtful comments, sent me emails but especially to those who made a donation to Alzheimer’s causes.

Please remember that I am just one guy who loves climbing. With 30 serious climbing expeditions including four Everest trips under my belt and a summit in 2011, this site tries to share those experiences, demystify Everest each year and bring awareness to Alzheimer’s Disease. My mom died from this disease a few years ago as did two of my aunts. It was a heartbreaking experience that I never want anyone to go through thus my ask for donations to non-profits where 100% goes to them, and nothing to me. If you are interested in hosting a fund raiser of having me speak at an event, please visit this link.

Please Donate for Alzheimers Today

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

Comments on/from Facebook

  41 Responses to “Everest 2013: Summit Wave 8 Recap”


    Dear Alan,

    I would like to add some information about the second summit of the team of Tim Mosedale. In the last summit, of which you did give a report, besides the leader Ilina Arsova and Steve (I don’t know the last name) summitted. Ilina Arsova is the first female from the Republic of Macedonia that have summitted Mt Everest. Only four Macedonians summitted before her.

    Even though you did report about this acheavment of the Tim Mosedale team, I did not see any changes in your table about the number of summits this team acheaved.

    Thank you

    Biljana Janeva


    Hi Alan just letting you know I have summitted 21st May 9:13 am 🙂 first portuguese women to summit everest to eradicate poverty 🙂


    Dear Alan,
    Manish kumar Deka of Assam, India who descended earlier due to healthy grounds summited this morning, he is the 11th successful summiter out of a team of 13 climbers from India’s North Eastern States who went with Arun treks… Yours truly had to return from base camp after 2 weeks at base camp due to cold allergy… Had been following your blog and it had been a great one. As for your cause, I have to laud you as a practicing psychiatrist I understand the greatness of your cause… Keep up the good work.


    First of all huge congratulations to Miura Yiuchiro what an amazing achievement by an amazing man! If he can do it at 80,then I am sure I can give it a go at 54 in 4 years time. And Alan thank you so much for the amazing,in depth, impartial reporting of the Everest season, you Sir are a Legend! And I’ve just donated to Cure Alzheimers for the 3rd time this season thanks to your efforts! I doff my cap to all those who have attempted Everest this year whether they summited or not and to you Sir for your tireless work! Truly inspired 🙂


    Alan – Min Bahadur Sherchan is indicating on his FB page that he plans on starting a climb!?? Any sources at EBC to confirm?


      The cook’s nephew says he is strong and looks good, seriously, and leaving within the week. He better hurry as the Icefall is melting out …


    Any news on Dawes Eddy ?


      He was reported at the North Col but his name has not shown up on any summit list. I have confirmed he is safely home. He was climbing with Asian Trekking.


        Many thanks Alan. We have been following you for the last three year. An invaluable service to all of us. Kudos!!!



    Thank you for all the hard work and time you put into helping connect all of us who will only ever summit in our deepest fantasies, and those who live that dream each year. Its an honour to ride the journey with all of them, and i cant help but feel the depth of both sad grief and height of elation, as you get to know them personally.

    I cant help but appreciate the sense of time that you give us mortals, that happens on the mountain. It seemed to be moving at a snails pace for days and days, fixing the lines to the high camps, acclimitising slowly. And then within about 10 days all hell breaks loose and people are going crazy, hundreds of people trying for zion at the summit of Everest. And then all goes quiet and its over. An amazing portrait of humanity.

    As a self confessed Everest nut, who salivates over every picture of Everest landmarks like the yellow band, south summit, mushroom rock etc etc, one day i hope to live my dream and hike to both Everest base camp as painful as it may be for someone as unaccomplished as i, and stand shoulder to shoulder with some of those who are far more courageous than I. I hope to then to travel to the north in the same season and view the magnificent north face with the great couloir where my compatriots Tim McCartney Snape and Greg Mortimer summited so many years ago with out supplemental O2’s, with Lincoln Hall turning back.

    All the best for the future and i look forward to following your blog through the various climbs over the next 12 months on K2 and other grand peaks, until again the sherpa begin to migrate up to EBC for another season.



    (Wodonga, Australia)


    Russell Brice tells us that his people got up and down (9 hrs) because they were on 4 lpm of O2. Sounds like this number is higher than most. Correct?


      Himex has been using 4lpm for a while now and so do several other commercial companies. It is common for most non-professional Everest climbers to climb at 2-3 and go to 4 in the difficult spots (Steps, SE Ridge, etc). The issue is having enough bottles!


    Hi Alan, just to say a massive thankyou for your blog. My wife and I have enjoyed following it. We will donate to Alzheimer’s (my grandad suffered with this). I was one of the climbers to summit on 13 May. Seems like an eternity ago already! It was an amazing experience and the gnarly weather just added to the experience – I’m mainly glad that I had a quiet summit day. Thanks again, Adam


      Adam massive congrats to you Sir for summiting. I start training with Tim on 09/06 and can’t wait tbh 🙂


    Hi Alan, just to say a massive thank you for your blog. My wife and I have enjoyed following it. We will donate to Alzheimer’s (my grandad suffered with this). I was one of the climbers to summit on 13 May… Seems like an eternity ago already! It was an amazing experience and the gnarly weather just added to the experience – it also meant we had a quiet summit day. Thanks again, Adam


    Hi Alan! It was a coincidence that I found your Blogg last year because I was looking for information about trekking in Nepal. I visited Nepal in february this year and I am still very impressed of the country, the people and the nature. I had so many valuable meetings which I shall never forget.
    Trank you Alain for your wonderful descriptions. I cannot climb but it was so interesting to follow your words and illustration.
    I shall carry on my training and hope to come back to Nepal maybe for a trekking peak. Thank you again for your fantastic work.
    My mother has M Alzheimer too and therefore I can understand you very well.
    I wish you all the best!


    Hey Alan

    Thanks so much again for the fantastic Everest coverage. I’ll make a donation in thanks for your excellent work, and continue to support your cause.



    Wow, what a season, such a shame it’s so short, and what with your fantastic coverage, I will miss checking the web site everyday to see what’s going in on the mountain, totally fascinating reading, I’d like to thank you for writing it for all of us, R.I.P to all those who left us, congratulations to all who summited, and commiserations to the ones who didn’t summit, but feel good that you made it down safe,
    Again Alan, thank you again


    Hi Alan,
    Just want to thank you so much for being my lifeline during this Everest season. My husband, Doug, is now back in Base Camp after successfully climbing to the summit of Everest with IMG.Your insightful and informative writing kept me feeling very connected during the entire expedition.

    I HAVE just made a donation to Alzheimer’s research. It is a small thing for me to do, in light of all you have done for me, and all friends and families of those attempting this huge journey.
    Thanks again!


    Mauricio Tamayo, our friend Dave is approaching new records every year too 🙂


    There are still 9 climbers and 9 sherpas on the North side, my two sons among them. Please, please continue your updates. I’ve been following your site daily and appreciate all the information you give. You have really helped ease the stress of waiting. Thank you.


    Alan-outstanding coverage again this year. You are without a doubt the best source out there. As a regular reader I think you should tackle covering whats going on in the Karakoram this summer/fall too!


      Thanks Alex. I will do some post on the Karakorum but not as much as Everest. The teams just don’t post as much given they are more independent and not commercial.


    Congratulations to all who summited ! Thanks Alan again for the updates !


    Thank you Alan for your time in posting your excellent dispatches for another year, I am sure that Everest climbers read your dispatches at Base Camp to see what others are doing on the mountain!


    Yes, a great tie in between this 80-year old’s activity & success, with Alan Arnette work on Alzheimers – thanks Chris Tomer


    Thanks again Alan. It always brings back good and bad memories of 2009. I have friends going to Nangat Parbat and K2 this summer so I’ll be looking from time to time for updates.

    Hope you’ll continue the blog for many years,



    Thank you for the updates! Always good to hear whats going in in the khumbu!


    You give me an up close and personal perspective every year. Can’t wait for your summary. I follow from Virginia where the Blue Ridge mountains are the “high” ones.


    That is an amazing feat for an 80 year old! If he can do it, then by all means we can too!


    Alan, Thanks for the amazing coverage, your work and effort is truly appreciated, I climbed Mt Meru & Kilimanjaro in 2011 and will be climbing it again with my 14yr daughter in 2014. On the back of your excellent reports I will be donating 50% of the money raised to Alzheimers Charity. After Kili my next stop I hope is Elbrus and then onto Aconcagua in a few years, who knows in the coming years you might be reporting on my summit bid. Live your dreams. Many thanks once again for your fantastic work.


    You better get busy Alan. Dave Hahn is going to pass your Longs summit total on Everest!


    Nice! Probably a stretch but also Alzheimer’s?


    Thanks for the update, Alan…i’ll mention your blog this morning on Daybreak…we’re briefly talking about the 80-year Miura Yiuchiro making the summit.