The efforts on Manaslu and Nanga Parbat ended without summits leaving one solo climber on Everest, a team of Sherpas with one client on K2, and two Nepali teams racing for the summit on Cho Oyu. Depending on which definition of the end of winter you use, the meteorological definition at the end of February, or March 20, 2022, the astronomical definition, teams are now focused on making their summit bids.
Nepal
Heavy snow and high winds stopped the Manaslu effort and have basically brought the Everest one to a standstill.
Winter Everest – Poor Weather Continues to Hold Jost Low
German climber Jost Kobusch trying a no Os solo attempt on Everest’s West Ridge is passing time at the lower villages waiting for a weather break. But it may become a moot point as his goal was never to summit but to tag 8000-meters. Thus far his high point is around 6464 meters above the Lho La pass.
Everest has seen only 13 winter summits for 371 attempts out of the total 10,656 summits. The last winter summit, defined by Nepal and the Himalayan Database as December through February was in 1993 by a very strong Japanese team led by Hikaru Hoshino on the SW Face (Bonnington Route). Polish climbers Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki were the first on February 17th, 1980 via the South Col route with oxygen.
Please see this video interview I did with Jost a few months ago, where we discussed his plans in detail. He says his goal is to reach 8,000-meters and not the summit. You can follow him on Instagram, Facebook, and an excellent 3D view of his current location on his website.
Cho Oyu – Getting Closer
Gelje Sherpa‘s team continues to push to create a standard, commercial route on the Nepal side of Cho Oyu and has tagged 7400-meters on the 8188-meter peak. Gelje continues to lead the cheering on IG:
After fixing until 7400 meters of CHO OYU in winter from the Nepal side, our team heads back to basecamp for a rest and now we are waiting for the final call for the summit plan. Until now, everything seems great and we are assured that the route we picked up will be great for a commercial expedition in near future and CHO OYU can be done from Nepal face.
Eventually, we are working more on it. We are preparing all good possibilities to make it. It was wonderful to get back to the mountain and enjoy the thin air. Concerning my brothers, who were there who were not in any thought of giving up and pushing every step higher and higher.
Meanwhile, we got some problems with the Internet device so our few teams will head back to Machermo to set up the things. I surely could able to update more about our journey and those images who could hardly capture saving up the device battery that icy cold wind and temperature.
Gelje’ team includes Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Lakpa Dendi, Chandra Tamang, Gesman Tamang, Tashi Sherpa, Phuri Kitar Sherpa, Ashot Wenjha Rai and Karma Sherpa.
Pioneer Adventures’s Mingma Dorchi Sherpa is also there trying to achieve the same objective – a commercial route from Nepal. The team includes Mingma Dorchi Sherpa -Team leader, Pemba Ongchhu Sherpa, Pasang Dorjee Sherpa, Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, Pasang Tenji Sherpa, Lakpa Thendu Sherpa, Phurbu Kusang Sherpa, and Karma Gyaljen Sherpa. They have established Base Camp and made a few climbs.
The Nepal side is rarely climbed due to avalanches and other objective dangers. Of the 3,923 summits on Cho, only 135 have been from the Nepal side. It will be interesting to see if any of the commercial guide companies use this new route in the prime spring or autumn seasons. The traditional Tibet-side route is considered very safe with little objective danger. While dealing with the Chinese is always a gamble, and the permit prices have gone up significantly in the last few years, most commercial operators are risk-averse and will want to use the safest route, even if it is more expensive. Perhaps this will be a route led by only a few Nepali companies wanting to distinguish themselves from the pack?
Pakistan
Winter K2 at Low Camp 3
A strong Sherpa team made up of Chhiring Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa, Furi Sherpa, Ngimatendi Sherpa, and Ningma Dorje Tamang have established Camp 3 a bit lower than usual on K2. Located at 7,350 meters, they are expected to launch a summit bid from there once the weather allows. The effort is centered around Taiwanese climber Tseng “Grace” Ko-Erh with Dolma Expeditions.
They still have a long way to climb and the weather can change without warning. However, they have proven to suffer and maintain focus so we will see if they can pull off the second team summit of K2 in winter.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
