Everest 2014: The Trek Continues, Icefall Route In

Training for EverestTeams are steadily making their way from Lukla towards Namche and above. IMG‘s Eric Simonson reports the Icefall Doctors have completed fixing the route through the icefall and Sherpas are now preparing to establish the two camps in the Western Cwm.

As climbers reach Namche, they are greeted with hot showers and pretty fast Internet access – my how times have changed. Almost everyone spends at least two nights there to adjust to the altitude. Namche Bazzar is at 11, 302 and they flew into Lukla at 9,400′.

While letting their bodies acclimatize, they will take some short walks including to the Everest View Hotel to get a clear view of Everest and the plume, if there are no clouds. Also they will spend some time at the bakeries enjoying fresh coffee, espresso, hot cinnamon rolls, apple pie and more. Are they climbing or on holiday?

Rules

But before teams left Kathmandu, there was business including the the new rules. Looks like all climbers are attending a briefing when they get their permit. Andy James posted this on his experience:

… we received a call summoning us to the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism and Culture for our briefing. Avid readers of my blog may recall an earlier tome which noted that in light of the fight between some western climbers and sherpas last year future climbers would be ‘invited’ to attend a briefing on cultural matters with the aim of fostering appropriate respect and mutual understanding. We’ll we assumed this was it. It turned out not to be, but instead we were ed to a brief ceremony during which we were presented with a Prayer Scarf. Upon this scarf was emblazoned at one end ‘Welcome to Nepal – Naturally Nepal, Once is Not Enough’, and at the other ‘Mount Everest Diamond Jubilee 2013’. Hmm. Nice idea, but leftovers from last year nonetheless. We were then lectured, pleasantly but formally on some new rules of the mountain.

1. All climbers this year would be expected to carry down and off the mountain 8kg of waste, not including oxygen bottles or human waste.
2. Guards from the Nepalese Army and armed Police would be stationed at base camp to maintain order.
3. A checkpoint would be established at the entrance to base camp to ensure that everyone within had bought the appropriate permit.

 The Trek

Once on the trek, a few posts are coming in from climbers sharing their impressions. Ellen Gallant posted this:

Arrived in Lukla on Wed. Trekked to Namche Bazaar on Thursday. Acclimatization hikes on Fri and Sat. Went to Hillary School in Khumjung and Hillary Hospital in Khundu. (remarkably impressive what Edmund Hillary did for the Khumbu region).

Feeling well and strong. Starting to believe I may actually do this! I have a little bit of “Khumbu cough” due to dust but otherwise ok. Sleeping well without any significant altitude problems.

One of the parts so far was an unexpected meeting with a local Buddhist monk when I made a little detour to the local monastery yesterday. We were talking for a bit in the prayer room when I mentioned that I am here to climb Everest. He said “wait here a minute” and came back with a sacred necklace with which he blessed me. The picture on the locket is of Guru Rinpoche and the cord was blessed by the Dalai Lama. Best part of the trip so far!

Off to Tangboche tomorrow. Still over a week until we arrive at Everest BC but good to start slowly.

But not everyone is having a good time. Isaiah Janzen posted this tongue in cheek post. Click his name to see pictures!

Last night I jammed my toe against a bed post in my hotel room. Now it doesn’t feel the greatest. For all I know, it could be broken. (For reference it was bent inward before and my right foot is bent the same way. It’s funny, and a tad worrying, spending all this time and effort to prepare, and I might have broken a toe at the last minute. I’m not worried yet because I can walk on it without a limp. Plus, there is at least one story of a guide with a broken arm trekking to Everest and after the cast came off he ended up summiting.

Another climber just missing his demise is Jeff Smith who posted on Facebook:

… Had a close escape today when we went for an acclimatisation hike up an extremely steep hill, which took about 90 minutes up, and halfway up our guide accidentally dislodged a rock, the size of a brick which proceeded to fall at great speed down the hill, unfortunately targeting me. Woody our guide shouted out ‘rocks falling’, which made us all look up, just in time for me to see the rock heading towards me. At the last moment as it sped my way I lifted my right leg, just in time to see it continue down the hill where it crashed into a huge rock, making a sound that reverberated all around the hill.

The next five minutes I climbed a little slower, thinking about the consequences had I not reacted how I did when I did, but then rationalised my worries by concluding that I must live in the now, and not worry about what could have been, or in fact what could be, especially with the weeks ahead! The views here are amazing, and it’s such a lovely place, if anyone ever gets a chance to trek to Base Camp do it, you will love it. Oh well, apple pie is a calling, thanks for all the messages of support, your encouragement is playing it’s part in getting me up the hill, Blue Skies.

Come on guys, get with it! 🙂 🙂

Cause Climbing

One climber close to my heart is Kuntal Joisherl. He is climbing Everest on behalf of Dementia/Alzheimer’s, just like I did in 2011 and do today. He posted this short video today:

Two more inspirational stories are of Steve Obbayi, trying to be the first Kenyan to summit Everest and bring attention to the sanitation issues. Another story to follow is blind Austrian climber, Andy Holzer who is climbing with a small team from the Nepal side. This is a nice article in English on his climb by Stefan Nestler.

 Climb On!
Alan

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5 thoughts on “Everest 2014: The Trek Continues, Icefall Route In

  1. Following Ricardo who is with Altitude Junkies. I managed to take an Everest flight from Kathmandu last month. Thank you for the blog, look forward to your updates. Great work

    Dave

  2. Helene, it’s a dangerous place over there, just on the trek I cracked my left ankle, twisted my right ankle, bruised my spine and broke two ribs, also had chest pains (due to heavy breathing over a long period) and had sun stoke/AMS
    Absolutely awesome place tho

  3. Great article my dreams of ever treking here is only by you Alan and others who write. I do trust and believe what you write is as up todate and accurate as it can be. Those prayer shawls are an awesome gift for anyone to recieve. I wish for each and every persons safe return and thrill of their trek. Tashi Delek.

  4. Hi Alan – There have been at least two serious incidents already on Everest this year, in addition to the ones mentioned here by individual climbers. Is this typical for an Everest climb? Thanks as always for your informative coverage.

    1. Sadly it is not unusual to have early deaths of Sherpa fixing the route or carrying loads. It doesn’t happen every year but more often than you would think and it not an indicator of a good or bad year.

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