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Dec 152014
 
Everest as seen from Pumori Camp 2Everest 2015 is quickly approaching and it is time to update my annual look at the costs.
Many climbers will be in for sticker shock as prices have dramatically increased for 2015. Also, the North side will see much more activity as some operators have fled the south after the strange polices and actions of the Nepal government and some Sherpas. See my full preview of Everest 2015 I  posted in October.
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The Big Picture

For 2015, costs have once again increased pushing the prices higher on both sides, especially for the low cost operators.

There are several drivers for the price increases. First the permit cost has gone up, not down as advertised by the Ministry. It is now a flat $11,000 per climber instead of $70,000 for a team of 7 or $10,000 per climber. Second, after the tragic deaths of 16 mountain workers in 2014, many companies will increase the life insurance required by the Ministry. It is now USD$15K up from USD$10K for what they call High Altitude Workers. Most operators will abide by these new levels but it is unclear if the requirement will be enforced evenly across the board and those competing on price will meet the requirement. The third reason for increased costs is inflation. Nepal’s inflation rate is currently 9.47%.

Additionally, Nepal has implemented a new rule that requires every foreign climber in Nepal to hire a local Sherpa Guide. This policy has been in place for trekkers since 2012 but not enforced. After the large number of trekker deaths in the Annapurna region earlier this year, the policy was re-communicated. I remain unclear if it will really be enforced in 2015 for Everest climbers but if so, will add a minimum of $4,000 to the absolute lowest cost.

Many non-Nepali operators are adding additional guides and services to their offering. Each Western Guide can make between $10K and $25K and this cost is passed on to the clients. Some companies are adding European chefs, adding to costs. Some are offering extra oxygen starting lower, adding to costs. In the end, this is real money and the client pays the tab.

Those at the high-end have again held their prices steady absorbing the increases. The average price of the companies I surveyed looks to be about $41,700 with no Western Guide and $57,000 on the south with Western Guides and $46,000 on the north.

The primary difference  between north and south are the permit costs and support staff salaries. The North has seen dramatic prices variances for 2015 with high-end operators of Alpenglow ($79,000) and Himex ($64,000) entering the market and skewing averages. The traditional north operators average about $37,000.

A Change is Coming

But this is the real story: Nepal operators are taking over Everest from the south side. They are offering credible support at lower prices than non-Nepali operators. Asian Trekking has been doing this well for years. Other local operators include Monterosa, High Altitude Dreams, and Himalayan Ascent. The newest and major player today is Seven Summits Treks who reportedly had 98 clients on Everest in 2013. They offer a good product but are reported to pay staff a lower wage than non-Nepali operators.

Everest is no longer the sole domain of an affluent middle class in Europe, Russia, Australia, New Zealand and the US. It is now attractive to the same demographics in India, Nepal and China. These new clients seem to be attracted to the lowest price and Nepali owned support thus creating demand for companies to meet that need.

With Nepali companies offering Everest in the $25K-35K range and non-Nepali from $40K to $65K, the lines are being drawn. But there is a huge difference in what you get for these prices, it remains a buyer beware environment where selecting an unprepared operator (Nepali, non-Nepali, solo – all companies included) may mean your life.

Clearly, each individual must go to Everest ready to be self sufficient with the proper skills, experience and attitude. People die each year assuming their guide will take care of them in a crisis.

The end result is a continuation of the trend of Nepal based companies leading more Everest clients than non-Nepali operators. Ten years ago non-Nepali operators lead 80% of the clients up Everest, I predict in five years that will drop to 20%. This is one reason prices will continue to go up – more services at the top vs. a commodity offering at the bottom.

Cost Influences

There are real costs involved to climb Everest and it is not the place to save money. However, with guided expeditions charging from $30K to $100K, it is confusing. You can sometimes get a deal, but don’t count on it given the popularity of Everest. Most leading commercial guides sell out months in advance each year.

The Nepal and Tibet governments control much of the costs today with permit fees and requirements on wages, insurance and treatment of Sherpas, cooks and porters so a base price has been effectively established.

There are three ways to climb Everest: put together your own expedition, join a logistics only expedition or join a fully guided team.

Some climbers believe a solo expedition in the Messner 1980 north style is the way to save money; however the notion of a solo climb is somewhat academic today.

Before the explosion of commercially organized guides with dedicated Sherpas, ropes and ladders; a climber could go to the mountain (usually the north) and climb alone without using any of the common support systems. Some people try these days but end up using a ladder someone else put across a crevasse or a cook at base camp thus never really making a true solo climb. The best you can really achieve is without Sherpa support and still the costs are significant.

The majority of climbers use commercial expeditions because they spread the costs across multiple climbers thus reducing expenses and improving safety.

On Your Own

It is tempting to dream of planning your own Everest expedition. After all, anyone can fly to Kathmandu, buy a permit, food for 6 weeks; fly to Lukla or Lhasa, hire yaks and porters to get your gear to BC, establish your own base camp, cook all your own meals, determine your own weather forecast, make multiple climbs to ferry your own gear while establishing your high camps, pay for use of the fixed ropes, buy/rent oxygen, regulator, mask, summit, hire more yaks to get your gear back out or carry it yourself, and a ton of other stuff. It is certainly possible and done occasionally. However even these “independent” expeditions rely on some level of local logistics.

If saving money is the goal, you will be disappointed. You might have been able to do all this for under $15K back in the last century but definitely not today. The permit alone is $11,000. Even the first Swiss and British expeditions were massive undertakings requiring funding on a national level.

Cost Breakdown

To get started on the costs let’s look at the south but the north is similar with the permit being about $4,000 cheaper. There are fees every climber and expedition must pay – directly or indirectly: a climbing permit, liaison officer, visa, park fee, yaks, porters, icefall ladders and fixed ropes, waste deposit, travel, insurance, tents, food and fuel. At a minimum these total $23,000 for one person going alone. Even splitting group expenses the base costs are $26,000 for a 7 person team.

If you wanted to do a true solo, unsupported (no oxygen, Sherpa or cook support but using ladders and ropes) on the south side for one person it would cost at least $25,000.

When you add in oxygen and base camp support, a one-person climb with Sherpa support approaches $45,000 but a 7 person team leveraging the group costs comes in at $37,000.

All these estimates assume you get your $4,000 trash deposit back, not always true. None of these estimates include western guides, add another $10,000 to $25,000 for that. To fully gear up for an 8000m climb from nothing, add another $7,000 for boots, down suits, layers, etc. Finally, this does not include tips which can be a couple of thousand dollars in total.

The bottom line for me is that even with the 2015 individual permit price reduction, going with a team is less expensive and safer. The reason they can offer climbs less than what I have calculated is that they reuse gear from season to season, get volume discounts and, in some cases, pay below market wages to staff. Remember you always pay your own personal expenses like airfare, extra hotel nights, alcohol and tips.

This is my estimated break down and there are additional costs I have not included for example travel, insurance, etc. for the support staff required by the governments.

PERSONAL TRAVEL $2,425 – $6,325

  • Airfare $1500 to $5000 depending on class and routing and excess baggage
  • Transportation Kathmandu to Lukla $325 round trip per person
  • Hotel and food in Kathmandu $300 to $700 depending on delays
  • Nepal Visa $100
  • Immunizations $200

Getting to EBC $3,990 – $4,550

  • Yaks to and from Base Camp $150 per yak per day carrying 120lbs, (4 yaks for 4 days minimum or $2400)
  • Porters to and from Base Camp $75 per porter per day carrying 60lbs (3 porters for 6 days minimum or $1350)
  • Tea Houses and food on trek to EBC $20 – $100/person /day – 7 days $140 – $700
  • Park Fee $100/team

Climbing Fees $16,650 – $21,650

  • Nepalese Liaison Officer $2,500/team
  • South Base Camp Medical support $100/person
  • Permit $11,000 for each climber regardless of team size on South, $7,000 for Westerner, $3,000 for Nepali Sherpa on North
  • Garbage and human waste deposit $4,000/team permit (refundable but not always)
  • Icefall Doctors to fix route $2,500/team or $600 per climber
  • Contribution to fixed ropes above Icefall $150/climber
  • Weather forecast $0 to $1,000
  • Puja $300

EBC and High Camps $3,500 – $8,800

  • Tents $3,000 new (sleeping, cooking, toilet, storage at 4 camps for 3 people)
  • Cooks $5,000 per cook and assistant for 6 weeks
  • Food and fuel $800 per person for 6 weeks

Climbing $3,990 – $12,430

  • Oxygen $550/bottle (5 bottles) $2,750 (doesn’t include costs to take to high camps)
  • Oxygen Mask (Summit Oxygen) $440
  • Oxygen Regulator $500
  • Climbing Sherpa $5,000 per Personal Sherpa with same oxygen as client

Misc $11,650 – $16,400 – 36,400

  • Medical kit $1,000
  • Sherpas, cooks tips and bonus $250 – $2,000 per individual depending on performance and summit
  • Helicopter evacuation from EBC-South $5,000 – $20,000 depending on start and end locations (not available on north)
  • Rescue Insurance: $400
  • Personal Gear (down suit, high altitude boots, sleeping bags, etc): $7,000
  • Satellite phone (own) $1,000 to $3,000 depending on usage
  • gear allowance for Sherpas $2,000

OK, so now that it looks cost prohibitive to climb solo or even very independently for most people, let’s look deeper at climbing with an organized team.

Guide Definition

What is a guide? There are international organizations that certify guides such as the AMGA and the IFMGA. Individuals, after years of practical experience, go through extensive training across all types of terrains and techniques plus rescue and some medical courses before an intensive testing process to receive their certification. This is time consuming and expensive and not common in the US market but almost always required across Europe. Certified guides are technically the best of the best.

Some expeditions are led by a Westerner who does not call himself a guide but rather a leader. The leader coordinates activities, sometimes from base camp and may or may not actually climb with clients. The leader may or may not have actually summited the mountain.

Be aware that anyone can call themselves a guide in Nepal. There are many local companies with slick looking websites that offer attractive packages. Some are excellent but many are high risk. Verify everything.

There are three options for supported climbs: Sherpa supported, Sherpa guided and a western guided commercial expedition. All leverage permit fees and group costs such as deposits, cooks and tents across multiple climbers. Let’s look at them in detail:

Sherpa Supported Expedition

A Sherpa supported expedition is one where a company organizes all the logistics: food, group gear, transportation plus Sherpa support but does not provide traditional western guides or, in some case, even a lead Sherpa guide. The Sherpas may or may not speak English very well and will most likely follow your lead as to pushing forward or turning back.

These cater to experienced climbers or those on a tight budget. You can sign onto one of these climb for under $40,000 on the south side, but you need to read the fine print and strongly consider safety.

At the low end of the price range, a Sherpa will ferry your oxygen gear to the highest camps, prepare all the tents, and carry the group gear but not your personal gear. Don’t underestimate the toll of the simplest tasks at extreme altitude. One service uses a 4:1 ratio of climbers to Sherpa to give you a feel for the level of support. Also, due to the low staffing, some do not help with route fixing creating ill will with other teams.

A Sherpa will climb with you on summit night but you might be on your own with random teammates throughout the rest of the acclimatization climbing process, including preparing meals at the high camps. It is quite common to find yourself climbing only with a Sherpas or even alone. Access to modern weather forecasting technology is unlikely, you may use old style oxygen masks. It is absolutely required to ask many questions and understand every detail before signing onto these style of expeditions. Recent references are a must.

Asian Trekking specializes in this style of climb and is very good but many others are not. I climbed Everest in 2008 with High Altitude Dreams using this model.

Sherpa Guided Expedition

A Sherpa guided expedition will have an experienced Sherpa lead climbers through the route. Usually they depend on a Sirdar (a highly experienced senior Sherpa) to make the big decisions such as when to go for the summit or when to turn-around.

A variation on this approach is to hire a Personal Sherpa. These Sherpas have gained significant experience and training in dealing one to one with western clients. Their English skills are usually very good. A personal Sherpa will be at your side, literally, throughout every step of your climb including all the acclimatization climbs. You will never climb alone.

While they will not carry your gear, they may offload some items from time to time. They will be with you exclusively on your summit night even if you turn around before the summit. Expect to pay an additional $5K to $7K for a Personal Sherpa plus another 5% to 20% in tips and bonuses.

Almost every expedition except for the lowest costs ones, provide a Personal Sherpa on summit day, at an additional fee.

IMG’s Classic Everest Climb program has used this model safely for years. I summited in 2011 with my Personal Sherpa Kami Sherpa from IMG. Expect to pay around $44,000 for this style.

Western Guided Expedition

The western guided expeditions are ‘full service’ trips and are most appropriate for first time Everest climbers or anyone looking for a bit more support. The cost vary widely ranging from $55K to $85K. This includes all the services of a Sherpa guided climb plus sharing one or more western guides. If you want your own personal western guide, expect to pay $100K, plus tips and bonuses.

The major point of this approach is you are climbing in close proximity to a western guide who most likely has several summits of Everest under his/her harness. There is no language barrier and the guide will make all the decisions as to turn around times, weather and manage emergencies.

In addition, with a western guide, you will receive coaching and encouragement but this varies widely amongst the multiple personalities of the guides. A major component of the price difference is that you are paying for this incremental attention and guidance.

On these higher-end expeditions, you should have a high quality of food ranging from better prepared to exotic. One service likes to promote their sushi, another their 5 Star chef. Then there are espresso machines, open bars – in other words the sky’s the limit, all at a cost.

The most expensive guide companies (Adventure Consultants, AAI, etc) almost always come with several western guides and you never climb alone. I climbed Everest in 2002 and 2003 with Adventure Consultants using this model.

Team Size

One area to understand is the size of the team.

The highest price companies, that most often have small teams with western guides, will promote that they offer the benefit of personal attention, camaraderie, teamwork and support. They suggest the large teams are impersonal, and crowded.

My observation is that some small guided teams will try to climb as one group to support the teamwork and leverage the support staff which is good. However, the disadvantage of this is that if you are not feeling 100% you may feel the pressure to go anyway. Sometimes, you can lag a rotation behind, but it is discouraged.

The large teams almost never climb as one huge group. When climbing with a Personal Sherpa, there is a natural grouping that develops with like-minded climbers climbing at their own pace in small groups thus you get the advantage of a small team but leverage the costs more widely. Rarely are you forced to climb if you are not ready. Also you can avoid those “difficult” personalities that are always part of a long expedition.

My observation on large teams is sometimes you can have the feeling of a herd with large camps, unknown faces. Some climbers might feel a bit isolated. However, there is a increased feeling that if something goes wrong, there are a lot of resources on hand.

The bottom line for me has always been what kind of experience do you want. Both large or small teams can be equally successful.

Summit Stats

As of February 2014, the final 2013 numbers on the Himalayan Database showed that 658 climbers made the summit. There were 539 from the south and 119 from the north side. 9 did not use supplemental oxygen and there were 8 confirmed deaths.

In 2014, the south side of Everest was effectively closed after the deaths of 16 mountain workers in the Khumbu Icefall. However one Chinese climber took a helicopter to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm and went on to summit with a team of 5 Sherpas.  Around 125 summited from the Tibet side.

This brings the total summits to be around 7,001 by 4,142 different climbers, meaning that 2,859 climbers, mostly Sherpa, have multiple summits. The south side (Nepal) remains more popular with 4,421 summits while the north (Tibet) has 2,580 summits.

Including the tragic 2014 deaths in the Khumbu Icefall,  267 people (161 westerners and 106 Sherpas) have died on Everest from 1921 to 2014, 159 on the Nepal side and 108 from Tibet. Since 1990, the deaths as a percentage of summits have dropped to 3.6% due to better gear, weather forecasting and more people climbing with commercial operations.

Annapurna is the deadliest 8000 meter mountain with a summit to death ratio of 2:1 deaths for every summit (109:55).

A Wide Price Range

So, what is the difference between an Everest expedition for $40K and one for $65K? Often it is simply profit, overhead, number of guides and team size. Also how many services are bundled into one single price versus offered as options. The lowest price outfits promote a low price and then offer “options” such as oxygen, Sherpa support or even food above base camp.

Another common practice to keep expedition costs low is to pay support staff the absolute minimum whereas the best guide companies pay a livable wage for their entire team. It is critical to fully understand what you are getting into. But often it is the availability of resources: extra Sherpas, back up supplies (ropes, tents, oxygen bottles, etc), medical facilities, communications and profit and overhead for the operator. But this is difficult to compare.

An example are Sherpas bonuses. A low price service may not include a bonus whereas another may. For example, one company asks the climber to pay $1,500 to his Sherpa if they reach the South Col and another $500 if they leave for the summit. This is not shown as part of the base price. But a different company includes these bonuses in their overall package. In both cases it is customary to tip your Sherpa, and western guide, an additional amount.

Comparison Shopping

With all this as background, I used public websites and my own research to compile the 2015 Everest fees from the major Everest guide companies. Also I looked back at their 2013 summit rates and historical numbers where available. This is not a complete list of all guides and I did not look at small one person operations or those who do not run climbs each year for more than one or two clients.

Representative Everest 2015 List Prices and 2013 Summit Rates

COMPANY Typical Team Size SOUTH w Sherpa Guide* SOUTH w Western Guide*
NORTH 2013 Summit Success
AlpenGlow 2-4 N/A N/A $79,000 2013: 1 of 2 clients, 1 guide, 4 Sherpas
Adventure Consultants 8-12 N/A $65,000 N/A 2013: 7 of 10 clients, 5 guides, 21 Sherpas257 total summits (clients, Sherpas, guides) since 1990
Alpine Ascents International 8-16 N/A $65,000 N/A 2013: 13 of 16 clients, 3 guides, 21 Sherpas.264 total summits (clients, Sherpas, guides) since 1992. 75% success from 2004
Benegas Brothers 9-12 N/A $65,000 N/A no information available
Jagged Globe 8-12 N/A $58,000 N/A 2013: 10 of 10 clients, 3 guides, 11 Sherpas
Mountain Trip 4-8 N/A $59,900 N/A 2013: 1 of 4 clients, 0 guide, 4 Sherpas
Mountain Madness 4-8 N/A $64,000 N/A no information available
Himalayan Experience 20-30 N/A $65,000 $64,000 2013: 12 of 12 clients summited, 2 of 2 guides, 12 Sherpas364 total summits (clients, Sherpas, guides) since 1994, 0 – 96% success
RMI 4-10 N/A $66,000 N/A 2013: 0 of 3 clients, 2 guides, 3 Sherpas
International Mountain Guides 12-20 $44,000 $59,000 N/A 2013: 16 of 31 clients, 4 guides, 24 Sherpas (2 pushes) est.381 total summits (clients, Sherpas, guides) since 1991. 66% from 2006
Kobler & Partner 8 N/A $52,400 N/A no information available
Peak Freaks 8-15 $39,000
(invitation only)
$49,000+ N/A 2013: 4 of 8 clients, 2 guides, 8 Sherpas.
7 Summits Club 20 N/A $50,500 $55,740 2013: 9 of 13 clients, 1 guide, 9 Sherpas
Altitude Junkies 8-12 $45,000 N/A N/A 2013 (n): 3 of 9 clients, 1 leader, 7 Sherpas
Summit Climb 5-20 N/A $36,450 $28,450 2013: 12 of 12 South and 11 of 14 clients north213 total summits both n and s (clients, Sherpas, guides)
Adventure Peaks 10-20 N/A 2013: 4 of 8
Asian Trekking 20 $39,000 est N/A $29,070 est

2013 (s):14 of 26 clients, 21 Sherpas

2013 (n): 5 of 5 clients, 4 Sherpas

310 total summits (clients, Sherpas) since 2003.

Tim Mosedale 4-6 $45,000 N/A

2013 4 of 6 clients, 1 Guide, 8 Sherpas

Arnold Coster 5 N/A $32,500 N/A

N/A = not offered, * full logistics support, gear, food, Personal Sherpa, oxygen, mask and regulator

You can see my thoughts on Everest guides on my main site at Selecting a Guide.


 

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Safety

In my mind one of the largest decisions to make in selecting a guide service is your personal safety. The vast majority of Everest rescues and emergencies are never reported to the public – and there are many; almost daily throughout the season. Climbers get altitude sickness, GI issues and debilitating fatigue; your life becomes dependent on those around you.

If you are climbing with a small or a thinly staffed team, there is the possibility of not having adequate resources nearby to help you. It is a serious and sometime fatal mistake to believe that Everest is so crowded that someone will always be around to give aid if needed. Remember that each person is struggling to survive on their own, including the Sherpas, and may not have the strength to help regardless of their desire.

The bottom line is that teams who charge more or field a large team will generally have more resources available to support their clients.

As you can see selecting a guide service can be as daunting as climbing Everest itself! But in the end if you get references from other climbers of similar age and experience, the decision will be clear for you. Never be afraid to ask questions. The best operators welcome your questions. Trust me, they have heard it all. Finally, no legitimate operator wants to bring someone on who is a liability so they are interviewing you as much as you are them.

Funding

Getting the money is almost always harder than climbing Everest. Climbers become very creative when finding money. Some take out loans, refinance their home mortgage, others have the infamous “rich uncle”. Then there are those who set up a website to sell t-shirts or ask for “donations” from strangers. Believe it or not, this actually works to raise some money but rarely enough to cover all the expenses.

But the most common way to fund an Everest climb is to make it a priority in your budget by setting money aside each month for as long as it takes. This is how I funded 26 of my big climbs since starting at age 38.

The question of obtaining a sponsor often comes up. It is extremely difficult to get on a sponsored team for example by one of the large outdoor gear companies. There are ways to obtain a sponsor but it takes years of work, a solid plan, proven experience and often comes down to who you know and a lot of luck.

Climbing for a charity or a cause is popular but be careful not to use your cause as a way to fund a climb. This is a poor practice to ask for donations to pay for a climb in my opinion.

You can read more about my own experiences with The 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything and thoughts for sponsorship at this link.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

In Texas alone, there are 340,000 people who suffer from Alzheimer’s (source: UsAgainstAlzheimer's)
Alzheimer's disease is the only cause of death among the top 10 in the United States that cannot be prevented, cured or even slowed

  38 Responses to “Everest 2015: The Cost to Climb Everest”

  1. Got interested in everest after reading Mark Englis’s book .indepth report.usefulfor serious climbers. Cant plan everest exp.like a ordinary holiday,

  2. Hy.
    My name is ahsen raza.(18 yers old)
    Dear.
    Sir , first of all I am a fan of u.
    Since. My childhood sometimes I thinks about what is the highest point on earth. Then I came to know that. Mt everest is the tallest mountain on earth.
    Than. There was a deep place in my heart for everest.
    It becomes my dream fortunately I got chance to trek kailash. Parbat. Succesfully I climbed it approx. 3 months ago. It gives me a huge confidence to climb everest.
    Sir, I want to know that.how much time I should wait and there is some special training for everest summit ? I will be wait for ur reply.

  3. Thanks for information I m ready to CLIM

  4. Hi Alan!

    I was surfing for Everest 2015 season updates and came across your awesome blog!
    Thanks a lot for the in-depth article from you with your own findings.

    Awesome!
    Cheers!

  5. Mount kailash is at 6638 m,21778 feet

  6. Mount kalashlash is at 6638 m

  7. Sir,in 2012 i got a chance to trek on mount kailash,i completed my trek very easly without faceing any problm,now my dream is to trek Everest.is it posible i can reach there,will i got sponsors becos i don’t have that much money but if i get chance i can climb top of the world.please if any one help me to fulfill my dream i will be thankfull.regards h.k

  8. I am curious as to the effects altitude has had on your body. I would love if you could email me some of your first hand experience on altitude effecting the body. I would be extremely grateful for a reply. This is for an English assignment at my high school and i need primary information. I would be grateful for any information you can give me on how Everest effects the human body.
    Thank You.

  9. Do the prices mentioned here are USD!? Thanks.

  10. Hi,
    I’m Govind(18). Climbing Mt.Everest ie., reaching the highest peak of the World is one of my dream since my childhood, but I’m really unaware of the procedure for the above mentioned task. I don’t even know how much does it costs. I request you people to do the needful and help me reaching My goal.

    • You REQUEST what?
      Start by climbing some stairs…

    • How about you do the research yourself! If you are so lazy that you expect someone to do the research for you…then you have no chance of pursing this dream. Be a big boy and do the research yourself. Start by tamj g an English class.

      • Dear “Mother Theresa” ;-)), how right you are…I’m really puzzled about this postings from India. What’s going on there? (since that child climed Everest) And it’s US, Everest climbers, or expedition members, who are usually accused of being selfish etc. Good reply! Yeti
        PS: Robert, your turn! :-))

  11. Excellent work Alan. Will be undertaking the The Seven Summits during the 2015/2016 season.

  12. Alan Can you please send me an email with more information. I would like to go to Everest and take pictures. I used to climb allot but have not done so in a long time. That makes it a danger for me to go at all because we all know that old climbers are worse than a novice.

    • respected sir….
      i also want to go to everest but i can’t there due to some reasons but i just want that i submit everest once in my life …..
      Everest is not only my dream its my life ……

    • Seriously? Wow! Where do these ideas even come from? I read these sort of comments and just shake my head and fear for the future of mankind.

  13. Alan, than you for a great post, I am not a climber yet, I am only 15 but it is my dream to climb Everest and later K2. Do you have any recommendations on how to prepare for the climb, when to actually attempt it, and because of my inexperience and me going alone, on what expedition to take. I would love to hear back from you with some advice because I am honestly more daunted by the price and logistics than by the actual climb.

    • Before attempting Everest or K2, or even considering them, go climbing lots in the Rockies, the Cascades, wheever… I have 11 Himalayan expeditions and 12 treks, and I’m not even sure I am ready for Everest. I will attempt the mother of all mountains in 2 months, with my friend Jamling Bhote, who has summited k2 for the second time (!!!) in July
      http://www.everquestexpeditions.com/
      Gnothi seauton! As the Delphi oracle warns: Meaning, you have to know yourself, your body, your mind, your respond under stress, before going on that kind of trips. Of course, you need the skills and the experience – only very very very few exceptions (“kids”) have a chance NOT to die very easily up there.

      The price is PEANUTS in comparison to the suffering, the stamina and the mental strength you need! And, what do you mena, “going alone”? You want to scale the mountain alone? Are you OK?

    • Before attempting Everest or K2, or even considering them, go climbing lots in the Rockies, the Cascades, wheever… I have 11 Himalayan expeditions and 12 treks, and I’m not even sure I am ready for Everest. I will attempt the mother of all mountains in 2 months, with my friend Jamling Bhote, who has summited k2 for the second time (!!!) in July

      http://www.everquestexpeditions.com/

      Gnothi seauton! As the Delphi oracle warns: Meaning, you have to know yourself, your body, your mind, your response under stress, before going on that kind of trips. Of course, you need the skills and the experience – only very very very few exceptions (“kids”) have a chance NOT to die very easily up there.

      The price is PEANUTS in comparison to the suffering, the stamina and the mental strength you need! And, what do you mean, “going alone”? You want to scale the mountain alone? Are you OK?

  14. Dear Alan,
    Wondering if you are aware of Willie Benegas and Damian Benegas- between both we have 15 summits of Everest and many, many rescues. I-am sure you know who we are.
    Why is that you never mention us?

    • Damien, of course I know you and Willie. I have spoken live to Willie a few times and have great respect for what you do, for example with the Moniz team in 2014. (which reported on)

      The problem is your company has been difficult to follow for several years due to changing or lack of updates to your website.

      I just looked at it and am very impressed with the good information. I hope you will update it during the Everest season. Also, I cannot find any past history of Everest client performance thus it is difficult for me to compare your track record.

      So, I am glad to follow and report on you but only if I have access to the same information other guide services publicly provide.

      http://benegasbrothers.com/package/everest/

  15. Thanks for such a informative information… I will have to plan more budget for my expedition…..

  16. Alan,

    Thanks for another terrific report, so informative and detailed. You make it interesting for climbers and non-climbers alike. How much do you thing Project 8000 is going to affect your coverage of Everest and other climbs? Or will you be focusing on what you are doing in terms of reporting? I’m all for keeping up with you. I would miss your usual coverage but love to be able to stay with what you are doing and catching up with Everest on other sites. Whatever you do, even if you are unable to do a lot of posting at all, I’m sure it’s going to be an exciting year.

    Train hard and be well

    Beth

  17. Hi Alan,
    Very useful & detailed report. You have really pointed out all the minute details which are very useful! Seems that Everest is going to be beyond the range of middle class people. Also, I guess apart from the nostalgia associated with the Everest, people who intended to go for a “real climb”, might not go to Everest by spending their savings for whole life.

    • Can you afford to buy a new car? If so, then you can afford to go to Everest as the costs are about the same. It comes down to priorities and how badly you want it. You drive an older car, reduce other expenses as much as necessary and save your money for as long as it takes.

      But there is more than the money; there is also the HUGE time commitment. An Everest climb requires enormous training and preparation which has you missing all sorts of life events and then you are gone from home for over two months. That requires a very understanding employer (or customers) and family.

      If these two issues seem too much for you, then you have no chance of even coming close to the summit because the entire expedition is much tougher than these comparatively small stepping stones.

  18. Alan:

    What’s your “day job”?

    It seems expensive to attempt these expeditions (even just 1 or 2), and only those with a lot of resources need apply.

    • Hi Rick
      If you want to get to the summit it is expensive but to get to Base Camp or Kalapathar is lot cheaper just to enjoy the view of Everest and lot of other mountains on the way to Everest.
      I am not a mountaineer but like bit of trekking and the trek from Lukla towards Everest is definitely worth it.

  19. Another terrific post Alan. Again looking forward to the 2015 season and all of your posts that come along with it. Hopefully you have fully recovered from your harrowing trip on K2.

    Thanks again,
    Jim

  20. Thanks for the informative report. I’m not a climber, but am fascinated by the Everest climb every year. You provide excellent and objective coverage. I look forward to following your commentaries again during the 2015 season.

  21. Really great informative. very helpful for those future climbers to budgeting their upcoming expedition.

    great job.

    cn

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