Everest/Lhotse 2016: Icefall Officially Open

The Icefall Doctor officially opened the Khumbu Icefall for climbers this morning. IMG sent a handful of Sherpas with loads to Camp 1 and a couple to investigate the route to Camp 2.  They had their Puja yesterday. We understand the route through the Icefall is good this year.

Meanwhile more teams continue to stream into Everest Base Camp so members should be entering the Icefall soon. We were greeted this Monday morning with a brief snow squall but there was no accumulation at base camp. The temperatures continue to be very warm and it is fairly windy each day. Usually there are a few snow storms throughout April, but thus far the area is dry, but it is still early.

Kami and I took a short walk to 18,000 feet around Camp 1 on Pumori while the rest of the team did a bit of ladder practice. We were rewarded with great views of Everest, Lhotse and the Icefall plus Base Camp. Kami felt the Lhotse Face looked very icy. He said the area had a very dry winter.


One of the pure research non-profits I have supported since 2008 is the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund. Please visit their site to learn more but here is some information:

The Cure Alzheimer’s Fund is a non-profit organization dedicated to funding research with the highest probability of preventing, slowing or reversing Alzheimer’s disease through venture-based philanthropy.

Since its founding, Cure Alzheimer’s Fund has contributed more than $34,000,000 to research, and its funded initiatives have been responsible for several key breakthroughs—including a potential ment recently selected by the National Institutes of Health (NIH) for its elite “Blueprint” drug discovery program, and the ground-breaking “Alzheimer’s in a Dish” study, which promises to greatly accelerate drug testing and was reported by the New York Times as a “giant step forward”.

A few pictures from last night and this morning.

Climb On!


Memories are Everything

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3 thoughts on “Everest/Lhotse 2016: Icefall Officially Open

  1. I’ve been following the yearly Everest saga since 2001. Your blog is BY FAR, over all that time, the most informative and well designed offering on the block! I’m lucky I stumbled upon it.

    Thanks for all of your effort. The pictures are awesome!

    I have a friend that is treking up to base camp this week.

    Good luck on your climb.

    Rusty Ray

  2. Thanks for sharing Alan. Wishing you, Kami and the team safe travels. Your stateside friends sending you our thoughts and prayers for a beautiful journey and successful Alzheimer’s fund raising.

    Best Regards,
    Duncan & Maggi

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