I was surprised to receive this personal letter today from my US Senator, Mark Udall. I didn’t know a lot about his climbing experience but the personal nature of this note led me to find a kindred spirit with my Senator. While my attention was immediately directed to his climbing comment, it was his acknowledgement of the Alzheimer’s work that brought a smile. Senator Udall supported the National Alzheimer’s Project Act recently signed into law by President Obama. He worked for Colorado Outward Bound School as a course director and educator from 1975-85 and as the organization’s executive director from continue reading

Everest 2011 is over. This was the third climb of the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything. In my normal tradition, I have written a compete trip report. But this one is a bit different. I wanted to keep my summit in context of the goal thus the report provides a bit of background on my motivation to return to Everest for a fourth time in spite of being 9 years older after my first attempt in 2002. I also try to describe in more detail than in my dispatches about the actual climbing, conditions and what it continue reading
I know many readers are self proclaimed Gear Junkies so I thought a brief review of my gear I used to summit Everest would be of interest. As usual, these are not endorsements and I always paid for my gear unless noted otherwise. Overall, I used the same items and techniques I have on 30 expeditions the past 10 years. There were four parts to my Everest expedition: trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC), life at EBC, acclimatization climbs from EBC to Camp 3 at 24,000’ and the climb from the South Col (26,300’) to the summit (29,035’). One more continue reading
Climbing Everest has many parts: training, trekking, climbing and then a traditional unique to the tallest mountain in the world – signing a white board at the Rum Doodle restaurant in Kathmandu. Hanging on the wall behind the bar are two large boards filled with signatures of summiters. Off to the right, under a bit thicker glass, is another frame holding the signatures of Hillary, Rob Hall, Messner and a few others with a “bit” more history than the rest of us. Last night, Heiko, Mirjam, Suzanna and I went there to complete our mission. First we had to show continue reading
I am back in Lukla on our 3rd of 3 days trek from Everest Base Camp. This is an important time for me to process any Himalaya experience. I love walking the Khumbu trails, sharing them with the Yak trains going to or return from Everest Base Camp; seeing the porters with loads taller than they are and of course, the mountains. The weather has been perfect and I am hopeful to fly out of Lukla on Thursday (tomorrow) morning to catch my Friday flight home. I am trekking with Jay and Mirjam and thoroughly enjoying their company. The vast continue reading
I stood on the summit of Mount Everest at 5:00 AM, May 21, 2011. To say this event had a personal meaning is an understatement. To say it had a broader meaning leaves much to be explained. I will write a complete trip report in my usual standard once I get home but for now here is an overview from my summit push. The weather played havoc with every team in 2011. High winds were forecasted and changed plans but then never materialized. Sudden storms did appear without notice causing great discomfort, concern and in some cases, frostbite and blindness. continue reading
The call to meals at Base Camp is a bit primitive – the cook bangs a ladle against a huge metal skillet – yet effective. Everyone slowly pokes their head and eventually their entire body in a slow motion crawl out of the three foot high tent door and onto a rocky porch. In spite of the occasional stumble we all make it to the dining tent in short order, find our favorite seat and commence with a series of greetings even though it was only a few hours or minutes, since we last saw each other. Some sit in continue reading
A big part of climbing Everest is the weather. Last week we saw Kami and I caught in an unexpected wind storm on the Lhotse Face at Camp 3. Well last night there was a series of events that made our heads swim here at Base Camp. Multiple teams had positioned themselves for a summit push starting around 9:00PM from the South Col or Camp 4. The winds had picked up as they climbed from Camp 3 and further the revised weather forecast had them gusting to over 50 m.p.h. Normally the highest acceptable is in the high 20′s. So continue reading
I am pleased to welcome the Alzheimer’s Association to the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything. Many of you know them as the largest Alzheimer’s non-profit with leading programs for research, caregivers, education and government advocacy. I have worked with them for several years now raising money for all these causes. As part of the 7 Summits Climb program, they will promote my climbs to their membership thus raising more awareness and urgency for Alzheimer’s causes. I am extremely grateful for their support. To reiterate what my climbs are all about; I am using my climbs of the continue reading
I sat straight up in my sleeping bag as the strongest gust yet pummeled our tent. Kami sat up next to me. He literally kicked the side of the tent trying to dislodge the two foot snow wall that was consolidating against the thin nylon tent walls. However, the snow was now as hard as concrete and was growing higher with each gust. The ambient night time light was becoming dimmer as the snow wall was growing higher; 24,000 feet on the Lhotse Face in one of the most severe wind storms I have ever experienced. This was not continue reading
What a difference a day (or week) makes! I came down from C3 last Wednesday basically shattered. My upper repository lung infection was taking control and I was in a battle for the future of my climb. Combined with my personal battle was the fact that Everest weather this year has been down right strange. Usually April has clear days with little precipitation. Teams get their Camp 3 night in before May 1st and then wait out a traditionally bad weather spurt in the first half of May. Miraculously around May 15, the weather turns good again and the race continue reading

While the title of this dispatch may not resonate with those outside of the US, it seems true of many sports that for most of the game, professional sports teams seem to trade goals waiting for the final two minutes before getting serious about wining or losing. Well, climbing is kind of like that. We spend weeks going up and down the mountain to establish camps, build red blood cells, prepare our bodies and mind and then over a period of days then hours, we go for the summit – win or lose – it game over; well at least continue reading
“It was the best of time, it was the worst of times” so started The Tale of Two Cities. The same might be said of my last 5 nights in the Western CWM. As I wrote in my last dispatch from Camp 1, I arrived in good time for me, felt great and was once again awed by the Khumbu Icefall. Well except for that dangling ladder which has since been fixed! I had to smile upon seeing the big black furry mutt who followed several teams through the Icefall looking for a friendly handout or a kind pat on continue reading




















