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Jun 162016
A Personal Letter to Everest 2016, and 2017, Summiteers

“I want to climb Everest, but there is so much negative press about it. I don’t want to add to the problems.”, she added with genuine concern as I was having coffee this week with two 20 something aspiring climbers. Her statement got my attention. On one hand, I admired her ethics, on the other, damn it, she shouldn’t let anyone stop her dreams. With the 2016 season now over and people making plans for 2017 and beyond, I want to, in private 🙂 , have a few words with those of you who summited this year and make a few suggestions for those thinking about 2017. continue reading

May 232016
Everest/Lhotse 2016: Why People Die on Everest

Why do people die on Mount Everest? That is the question many people are asking this Monday after three deaths were reported over the weekend, five thus far for the season with tragically more to be reported. Sadly, many of the press articles, and pundits, are looking for a villain, someone or some organization to blame. Much of this is a good intentioned effort to save future lives but some are self-serving efforts to demonize climbers, guides and climbing itself. So with the caveat that I also have an agenda, lets look at why people die on Everest without going too continue reading

Mar 152016
Everest 2016: A Changing Mountain - Part 3

Some people are questioning the wisdom of climbing Everest from Nepal. Is the North safer? Is this another change in climbing Everest that could result in a serious economic impact for Tibet, buy but more so for Nepal? The Nepal (south) side of Everest has seen a tragic series of events the past few years including Himex abandoning their entire expedition in 2012 fearing an avalanche onto the Khumbu Icefall. Then that precise scenario occurred in 2014 when that very serac released onto the Khumbu Icefall taking 16 Sherpa lives. Then when a few Sherpas lead a work stoppage, the entire season came to a early end that year. continue reading

Mar 082016
Everest 2016: A Changing Mountain - Part 2

“How can I get on a team to climb Everest?” This is the second most asked question on my blog other than “How much does it cost to climb Everest?” The short answer on how to get on a team is money. Sadly, buy these days most anyone can join an Everest team if they have the cash. As for how much cash, buy  a standard climb from Tibet (north side) should run around $32,000 and from Nepal (south side) $42,000. Nepal Climber Requirements In mid 2015, the Nepal Ministry of Tourism floated several new requirement for any person applying for an continue reading

Feb 192016
Everest 2016: A Changing Mountain - Part 1

The Everest 2016 season is now only six weeks away and it looks to be a critical year in terms of commercial guiding. This is part one of a multi-part series I will run looking at the changing commercial landscape on the world’s highest mountain. And why for some operators 2016 is their last year guiding Everest. There are many issues with Everest this year as I outlined in my Welcome to Everest 2016 post. Clients are wary, best viagra the Nepal government is evasive with extending permits and high-end companies are taking their pricing to new levels. And of course all this is against the backdrop of fights, continue reading

Feb 112016
Everest 2016: Expedition Communication Gear

As the Everest 2016 season approaches, many climbers are researching how to stay in touch with loved ones back home. This post takes a brief look at the options. For a very detailed discussion please visit this page I frequently update with climbing communication options. If communication is critical to you from the time you arrive in Nepal to the summit of Everest, don’t be totally dependent on your logistics company because most will say their priority is to enable your climb, not your blogging or calls home. There are only two options you can count on for basic communications: a Thuraya satellite phone or the Delorme continue reading

Dec 212015
How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest?

“How much does it cost to climb Mount Everest?” is one of the most common questions I get after a talk. The short answer is,  a car, usa  or at least $30,000 but most people pay about $45,000. This post is the 2016 update of the most common questions and expedition prices. The headline for 2016 is that the high-end went higher and the low-end went lower. The price range for a standard climb, i.e. non-custom, ranges from $30,000 to $85,000. This is driven by low cost Nepali operators getting a foothold in the market and the traditional western operators adding more services to continue reading

Sep 262015
Movie Review: Everest - As Close to Being There Yourself

If you want to climb Mt. Everest, s take two hours to see the new Hollywood version of the 1996 disaster, pills but don’t take your spouse – you won’t be allowed to go! Everest has been hyped for several months now as “based on true story” yet not following any specific book or version of what happened. The movie is often said to follow Jon Krakauer best seller ”Into Thin Air” but that is not true. In fact Krakauer recently said about the entire movie in an interview, case “It’s total bull” Watching with an Experienced Eye I was eager continue reading

Aug 312015
Top 10 Everest Myths

Hollywood and independent filmmakers have found that a well crafted climbing movie, ask especially one about Everest, makes money. The film, Everest, complete with movie stars, green screen special effects and stunning footage taken on Everest, will open in theaters in September. On a much smaller scale, Sherpa, has already made it’s debut at film festivals and will be shown in 200 countries next year on the Discovery Channel. Finally, while not about Everest, Meru, is getting accolades for it’s authenticity and being compared to Touching the Void. With all this activity, the public relations machines are in full motion pumping continue reading

May 062015
Everest 2015: Season Summary - Summits Don't Matter

Over 9, buy 000 people died in April 2015 from a 7.8 magnitude earthquake near Kathmandu. And no one summited Everest – from either side, from any camp. Summits don’t matter. As has been my custom since 2002, I will summarize the season but this time from my first hand experience as I was climbing Lhotse which shares 80% of the route with Everest. I was between Camps 1 and 2 when the 7.8 magnitude earthquake reached the Western Cwm. This summary, while about the Everest season, is also about a human tragedy where thousands lost their lives, multiples of continue reading