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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Jan 272014
 
Everest 2014: What's More Important: Mental or Physical Toughness?

Some people say climbing Everest is mostly mental not physical but I beg to differ. Climbing Everest is about ands. The first time I attempted Everest, I was not ready, physically or mentally. The second time, only a year after the first, was a sad repeat. And the third? Well physically, I was better but mentally, that is a long story. But for the fourth, everything came together. I was in Everest Shape plus had the right mental toughness to go beyond what I thought was possible. The physical part of any climb is a given, but many climbers underestimate continue reading

Jan 062014
 
Everest 2014: The Cost to Climb Everest

During my annual coverage of Everest, one of my most popular posts is about money; well how much money it takes to climb Everest. What most readers want to know is 1) how little do I have to spend and 2) where do I get it?   If you value this post and find the ads interesting, clicking on them will help support this site.   This post was updated on February 19 2014. Update February 2014 In February 2014, the Nepal’s ministry of tourism and civil aviation announced a new fee structure for their mountains. Please read this post continue reading

Nov 112013
 
Getting in Everest Shape

Believe it or not climbers attempting Everest in the Spring of 2014 leave home in only 171 days, a little under 6 months. By now they have paid their deposits, are finalizing gear purchases but most importantly should be in the throes of training. By the way, the definition of throes is “intense or violent pain and struggle, especially accompanying birth, death, or great change.” OK then. There are other aspects to preparing for Everest including developing technical skills, gaining experience at altitude but I’m going to focus on training for this post. When I was training for Everest, I continue reading

May 282013
 
Everest 2013: Ladder on the Hillary Step? A Bad Idea

At the end of each Everest season, operators and officials review the results. They look mostly at the number of summits, deaths, and the issue of congestion at the bottlenecks. There were over 600 summits this year and Everest took nine lives in 2013, ten in 2012. For 2013, this process has begun with gusto as recent articles discussed doubling the permit fees as a way to address crowds and installing a ladder on the Hillary Step to address congestion. I think both proposals are bad ideas. By the way, Nepali Min Bahadur Sherchan, 81, has abandoned his summit climb continue reading

Jan 252013
 
Everest 2013: What is the Easiest Route on Everest?

A trick question, I know! In all seriousness there are no “easy” routes up Everest, just degrees of difficulty. The so-called normal or standard routes are along the Southeast and Northeast Ridges via their respective Cols (click on the map to see the ridges). These are considered the most straightforward climbs that present the least amount of technical difficulty. But nothing is easy at those altitudes. Since Everest was first attempted in 1921, there have been many attempts and over 3500 successful individual summits along a variety of routes, 21 in total. Only two new routes on Everest have been opened continue reading

Dec 062012
 
Bodies on Everest

My wife and I signed the “body disposal form” and sat quietly for a moment. That was in 1998 prior to my first 8000 meter climb, Cho Oyu.  We were offered three choices: leave on mountain, return to Kathmandu or return home. We choose to leave my body on the mountain if I died. Obviously I did not but I did help bury a teammate that year on Cho Oyu. Around 225 climbers have died on Everest since 1953 with about 3,700 individuals standing on the summit. The vast majority of the dead are still there. This article will explore continue reading

Oct 292012
 
Everest Deserves Respect

Over four days in May 2012, around 250 Westerners and 270 Sherpas and Tibetans support climbers summited Mt. Everest. For many, attaining highest point on Earth was the culmination of endless training, personal sacrifices and hard work to achieve a meaningful and fulfilling lifelong dream. Yet it is common within the greater climbing community to bash Everest climbers, for using ladders in the Khumbu ice fall, for relying on bottled oxygen up higher, for having Sherpas carry their gear, fix their ropes and establish their camps. For the critics on the sidelines, Everest has become a joke. I am disturbed continue reading

Oct 162012
 
What is Wrong with Everest

An opinion piece … Everest is not for the inexperienced, the novice or someone looking for a walk-up. There, I stated the obvious, or did I? OK, so much for the drama! But as the 2013 season gets closer, I have noticed a few disturbing trends. You would think that after 10 deaths on Everest this spring, the operators would be hypersensitive to qualifying clients, setting expectations and focusing on improving safety. Most of the deaths had nothing to do with crowds but everything to do with personal responsibility and inexperienced guides. Setting High Expectations I recently read Alpenglow‘s promotion continue reading

May 302012
 
Everest 2012: Season Recap: A Study in Risk Management

If there was one phrase to sum up this season where over 500 people summited Everest, it might be: risk management. There were signs from the beginning that the Everest 2012 season would be different when Sherpas establishing base camp at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall reported that the upper mountain looked “dry”. Once climbers started moving up higher, urgent requests were made to the Icefall Doctors to move the route in the upper Icefall away from Everest’s West Shoulder  where a huge snow and ice serac sat waiting to drop, potentially killing climbers and Sherpas making their way continue reading

May 292012
 
Everest 2012 Team Locations

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2012 coverage Last 2012 Everest News – 31 May 2012 A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who made a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits. That is why I do this. Very rough, unconfirmed estimates: Total at base camps: 446 westerners plus 500 Sherpas totaling 946.  548 combined summits from both sides 57.93% summit to attempt rate. 10 total deaths. If you have a general Everest question, please post here as a comment and I will try to address it. Start or stop email notifications of new posts using the form in continue reading