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May 062017
 
Everest 2017: Catching up with Russell Brice

Russell Brice has one of the most recognized names associated with Everest. As I mentioned in an interview I did with Russ just prior to the season he came to notoriety on the Discovery Channel’s “Everest Beyond the Limits” series about 10 years ago. But few people know that Russ is a world-class climber in his own right. Born in New Zealand in 1952, he now lives in London. He started climbing as a young boy in New Zealand and soon found his way to the Himalayas and Alps. He has numerous attempts and summits on Everest and other 8000m peaks. In spite of continue reading

Apr 052017
 
Everest 2017: Climbing the North Side with Jon Gupta, an Interview

A lot of attention is given to the Nepal side of Everest. It has more people, the risks are promoted heavily by those guiding from the north and of course, it was the side that saw the first summit back in 1953. And the north side has it’s share of fans, some perhaps even rabid these days. But one small team this year is just a guide, his client and two Sherpas. This was the usual profile for years as the north side was less expensive, had a wild feel to it and, by many testimonials, is a harder climb than the south. continue reading

Mar 312017
 
Everest 2017: Interview with Jim Davidson

Those who have followed me most likely already know Jim Davidson.  Jim is well known as a professional speaking and his own survival struggle experience on Mt Rainier in 1992 that he chronicled in the New York Times best-selling book, The Ledge. I did a review and a Q&A with Jim back in 2011 when the book came out. We live in the same town in Colorado, climb together often and he probably saved my life this past February when a strong wind gust blew me off my feet on a Colorado mountain breaking my leg in four places. Jim was continue reading

Mar 242017
 
Everest 2017: Adventure Consultant's Guy Cotter on 'Fixing Everest'

As the guiding universe explodes with seemingly anybody and everybody jumping in, there are a handful of global companies that simply take care of business year in, year out and Adventure Consultants is one of the best. For close to two decades, Guy Cotter has been running the company with a strong philosophy of keeping it small and safe. Guy is not a figurehead but a true mountaineer. He has summited Everest four times as well as many other 8000 meter peaks and is returning for another attempt on Dhaulagiri this year while another AC team climbs Everest. I climbed with Guy or continue reading

Mar 202017
 
Everest 2017: After 14 Everest Expeditions, Why Altitude Junkies is Leaving?

Guide companies tend to come and go, especially on Everest, but there are a handful that have made a significant contribution to the industry and when they “go”, there is a good reason. I’ve known Phil Crampton since 2008 when he was instrumental in helping me recover from botched logistics on a Everest North side climb. We went to the South side that year and was waylaid by the Chinese antics related to the Olympic games. Anyway, in 2013 I summited Manaslu with Phil and team plus was on his Everest team in 2016 for my Lhotse attempt. When he told me a couple continue reading

Mar 132017
 
Everest 2017: Russell Brice "Old School" Prepares for Another Season

Russell Brice is a legend on Everest. He came to notoriety on the Discovery Channel’s “Everest Beyond the Limits” series about 10 years ago. But few people know that Russ is a world-class climber in his own right. Born in New Zealand in 1952, he now lives in London. He started climbing as a young boy in New Zealand and soon found his way to the Himalayas and Alps. Back in 2011, I sat down with Russ for a long conversation. Since then we have had many such opportunities to talk about his climbing experiences, Everest, trends and dangers including last year during my Lhotse attempt. continue reading

Mar 092017
 
Bill Burke: A Study in Tenacity - Over

Update: March 21, 2107 Bill and team experienced deep snow and brutal cold, similar to what Alex Txikon experienced on Everest a couple of weeks earlier.  He has an excellent write upon his blog  of the decision and his helicopter “mountain tour” near the summit of his mountain on his way out. In Bill’s words: I finally reached Dawa with my inReach Explorer satellite device and received the weather report. Mike Fagin’s report applied to conditions at 18,000 feet, which was the elevation of our Base Camp. He reported a deterioration of the weather over the next 10-days as the jet continue reading

Mar 062017
 
Everest 2017: Mountain Madness, the Quiet Comeback

If you say “Mountain Madness”, what comes to mind? Many people will say Scott Fisher and others may bring up Everest 1996. And while not wrong, they might be missing one of the quietest comeback stories in expedition guiding. Now under the leadership of Mark Gunlogson, MM is preparing a return to Everest in 2017 in addition to gearing up for other big mountain expeditions. Scott Fisher led the ill-fated team on Everest in 1996. While all of his team summited and survived, Fisher died on the way back down from the summit. Christine and Keith Boskoff bought MM in continue reading

Nov 142016
 
The State of Everest: A Conversation with Dave Hahn

With only six months to go before climbers head to Nepal and Tibet for the annual spring climb of Mt. Everest, Dave Hahn, 15 times summiter, was kind enough to share his thoughts on the state of Everest and his own personal plans for guiding. Dave Hahn One reason I wanted to catch up with Dave, was his comment in interviews earlier this year that he would stop leading Everest expeditions and instead offer private guidance on the mountain. I’ve known him for over 10 years and wondered if this was a reflection on the state of Everest or a personal life choice for continue reading

Mar 102014
 
Everest 2014: Interview with Greg Paul and his New Knees

How often do we have an ache, sit down or just stop. As I like to ask “Are you hurt or are you hurting?” Well, hospital one day Greg Paul found himself beyond hurting, advice he was hurt and needed to fix it. Now with two new knees, he is back to climb Everest – his second attempt in three years. The owner of  Momentum Climbing Gym in Salt Lake City, Greg is an avid climber. Just last autumn he attempted the rarely climbed and difficult North Ridge of Ama Dablam. His knee problems however  became serious while he was continue reading