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Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2012 coverage. The teams listed below have announced their 2012 plans or usually run an annual Everest expedition. Contact me to add your team. I do my best to estimate each team’s location throughout the season and track their summit success rate. My  coverage is based on my own experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.

I did similar coverage of the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011. I climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.

South Col Route

TEAMS
BC
C1
C2
C3
C4
Summit:
Facebook for AC Twitterfor AC Adventure Consultants
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int.
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking
Dream Guides
Facebook for IMG Himex
Facebook for IMG IMG Classic
Facebook for IMG IMG Hybrid
Facebook for JG Jagged Globe
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Mountain Trip
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Patagonia Brothers
Facebook for PF Twitter for PF Peak Freaks
Facebook for RMI Twitter for PF RMI
Facebook for SC Twitter for SC Summit Climb
others

Northeast Ridge Route

TEAMS
BC ABC C1 C2 C3
Summit:
Adventure Peaks
Adventure Dynamics
Altitude Junkies
Facebook for PH Project Himalaya
Facebook for SC Twitter for SC Summit Climb
Facebook for SC Twitter for SC Bill Burke
7 Summits
others
e= climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ = on summit bid, -x = descending h=high point.
Summit number = client/sherpa Locations are estimates derived from public websites
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sticky: Everest 2012 Team Locations
 
Communicating from Everest - 2012 Update

I receive many questions on how I did my live dispatches for the 7 Summits so I put together this short tutorial for anyone wanting to communicate during an expedition from anywhere on our planet. While staying in touch is mandatory and part of an expedition for me, some people want to get away from it all and escape the modern noise that comes with 24 by 7 communications. If that is your case, then take a sat phone for safety but don’t use it unless there is an emergency! Tell everyone that no news is good news and you continue reading

Words: 2011

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Dec 292011
 
Words: 2011

In the last days of 2011, I wanted to write about my last 12 months of climbing mountains to raise awareness and research funds for Alzheimer’s, but I couldn’t find the words. The emotions and gratitude are immense. I could only come up with the following in hopes it expresses my feeling to everyone who made a donation, everyone who followed the journey and to everyone impacted by Alzheimer’s. And we are not finished. I climbed mountains in 2011. Not for summits but for a message. Words are what we have. What we use. A collection of letters struggling to continue reading

 
Getting in "Everest Shape"

With the heavy eating of Christmas behind us and New Year’s resolutions in the making, I thought it might be a good time to talk about training for mountain climbing! With only about 90 days until teams start leaving for Everest 2012, it is too late to start training but for the rest of us it is never too late! When I was training for Everest, I was told “Alan, you better be in the best shape of your life!” Well they almost got it right, actually I needed to not only be in the best shape of MY life, continue reading

 
Welcome to Everest 2012 Coverage

Welcome to my kick-off for Everest 2012 coverage! This will be my 10th season of Everest: 6 times providing coverage and another 4 seasons of actually climbing on Everest. I summited last year on May 21st from the south side. My goal is to provide insight and analysis of what is going on up there with no favorites or agendas. I use sources directly from the mountain, public information and my own experiences to develop my posts. Usually I post once a day as the season gets started in early April and ramp up to almost hourly coverage during the continue reading

Dec 052011
 
Gifts for the Climber in your Life

Looking for that perfect gift for your climber? Here are some ideas based on my 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything this past year:         Free!: Take walk with your climber and ask him/her why they love the mountains.       Under $10 Black Diamond Nitron Carabiner: strong, solid and easy to clip on and off the life lines. I used these exclusively on Everest and Denali         Under $20: The Ledge: A story of resilience and courage by my friend Jim Davidson. Trapped on Rainier in a crevasse, his partner continue reading

 
7 Summits Gear Review

Climbing 8 big mountains in 11 months required many things but proper gear was a must. In this post, I will review what I used, what worked, what didn’t;  taking it a layer at a time. To review, I did 8 climbs with 7 summits in 11 months. They were: Vinson (Antarctica), Aconcagua (South America), Everest (Asia), Denali to 17K when stopped by weather (North America), Elbrus-North (Europe), Kilimanjaro (Africa), Carstensz Pyramid (Oceania), Kosciuszko (Oceania). I will refer to the mountains as coldest: (Vinson, Denali and Everest) and warmest (Kilimanjaro, Carstensz and Kosciuszko) with Aconcagua and Elbrus in the middle. continue reading

 
A Voice in Washington for Alzheimer's

“My mother also died from Alzheimer’s; a fellow climber told me several years ago as we hiked up a Colorado 14er. She continued, “I used to raise money, try to support research and a change in policy. I had a hope for a cure, but I gave up.” We walked quietly along as I let that sink in. In some ways that was a defining moment for me as my own mom entered the final stages of Alzheimer’s. My mission became to give a voice to those who had given up, to speak for those who cannot speak up. I continue reading

 
Dramatic Increase for Everest North Permits

In a dramatic increase, the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) has notified operators that they will increase the permit costs for climbers, Sherpa and cooks. The net impact is that a permit to climb Everest from the north is now more expensive than from the south for most climbers. This according to Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies. The north side of Everest has long been the ‘bargain’ side primarily based on a lower cost permit from the Chinese then Nepal’s permit of $10,000 per climber.  This is turn had attracted the lowest budget operators, and independent climbers. But this had a continue reading

 
Final Trip Reports: Carstensz Pyramid and Kosciuszko

What a way to wrap up phase 1 of the  7 Summits Climbs for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything project. Carstensz Pyramid had everything I expected and Kosciuszko was the perfect last climb. Carstensz Pyramid Carstensz was what an adventure should be. It had drama, uncertainty, an element of danger and of course for a climber – a summit. I knew as I boarded the plane for the flight to Indonesia that this would be the most difficult climb both technically and logistically. What I didn’t expect was that labor issues at the local mine near Carstensz would be the culprit. continue reading

 
Kosciuszko Summit: Brief Recap

It may have been the lowest, but it was certainly worth the effort. Mount Kosciuszko was easy and fun plus a wonderful way to end my current 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything project. Only three days after summiting Carstensz Pyramid, I flew to Sydney and then drove to the ski resort village of Thredbo. I found a great place to stay and looked out my window to see a cloud covered mountain side. More than one climber had told me that Kozzy presented a challenge in difficult weather conditions. But when I woke up, I was greeted continue reading

 
Summit: Audio Dispatch from Kosciuszko

This is the latest audio dispatch live from Kosciuszko; the eighth of Alan’s 7 Summits climbs. These climbs are to raise Alzheimer’s awareness and $1M for research. Please donate today. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

 
Last but not least, Kosciuszko

I am now in Australia after our successful summit of Carstensz Pyramid. I survived the leeches, cannibals and jungle to summit the 16,023′ rock climb. So on to Kosciuszko, the 8th and last climb of the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything. If you are confused as to why there are 8, 7 Summits, it is all explained in this post of a few weeks ago. Some people would not bother with this one because it is “only” 7310 feet high, represents no technical challenge,  has a road (now closed) to the summit and is really a ski continue reading

 
Carstensz Summit Brief Recap

Carstensz Pyramid was without a doubt the most exotic, logistically complicated and, from a pure climbing perspective, rewarding of all the 7 Summits. In my usual approach, I will post a full trip report, FAQ and photo/video gallery but for now, some highlights of our summit day. As I previously posted, strikes at the huge local gold mine created massive uncertainty with our flights to Carstensz base camp (BC) resulting in having to charter several helicopter flights to avoid the 6 day trek across the Paupu jungles. But we were here to climb, not trek, so the entire team was continue reading

 
Summit: Audio Dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid

This is the latest audio dispatch live from Carstensz Pyramid; the seventh of Alan's 7 Summits climbs. These climbs are to raise Alzheimer's awareness and $1M for research. Please donate today. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

 
Carstensz Summit Push in 10 hours

We leave our summit push for Carstensz Pyramid in about 10 hours, leaving camp around 1 AM local time. It should take between 8 to 12 hours roundtrip.Attached is a picture of Carstensz’s face we are climbing. The route is to the right gaining the ridge…

 
Carstensz: Commit to the Goal

Our Indonesia adventure continues. We were supposed to fly out today from Timika on the southern coast of Papua to Suagpa north of Carstensz, but a snag in the logistics foiled this plan. Before I go on, a bit of background. Adjacent to Carstensz is one of the largest gold and copper mines in the world. It is the primary employer in this area and around 9,000 of the 12,000 workers went on strike on September 15 for higher wages. They make about US$2 to $3 a day, according to some press reports I have seen, and want $43. The continue reading

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