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Everest 2012: Teams at Altitude

The teams are in full motion , many are currently at Camps 1 and 2 on the South and Advanced Base Camp on the North. Perhaps it was the prediction of a cyclone off the Indian coast bringing bad weather on Wednesday that pushed everyone up. That threat seems have diminished now. Asian Trekking reports their north side team is at Base Camp. It is lead by Japanese Tamae Watanabe now 73 years and who is the oldest women Mt. Everest summiteer. She set the record at age 63 in 2002. Himex is ready to start the standard route after continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Weekend Update April 22

This was an extremely difficult week on Everest with the deaths of two Sherpas. However teams continued to make progress in their acclimatization spending nights at high camps, taking advantage of the mostly good weather on the south while high winds hindered progress a bit on the north. Sherpa Deaths A heavy tone hovers over Everest with the deaths. First was 40 year-old Karsang Namgyal Sherpa climbing with Prestige Adventures. He was the son of Ang Rita, a mainstay in the Sherpa community for decades with 10 summits, all without oxygen. Namgyal had several summits of Everest himself. The cause continue reading

 
Everest 2012: 2nd Sherpa Death, Time for Patience - Update

As expected the reports are slowing down as our climbers are all over the mountain today. Those back in base camp are resting up, taking showers and reflecting on their first trip into the Western Cwm. And those still up there? Well let’s just say they are busy creating red blood cells that will be useful later! A 2nd Sherpa dies this week I have been notified that reportedly a second Sherpa has died on Everest. I am sure the team will release his name and details. I understand he fell into a crevasse just below C1 at around 10 continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Boiling at Camp 1

A lot of movement on both sides of Everest. Teams have spent the night at camps 1 and 2 on the south and are now at ABC on the North. The Indian Pune team and the WMS gang have a few nice Icefall pictures. You can almost hear the heavy breathing! Fixing Rope The Sherpas continue to do the heavy lifting, literally and figuratively as a mind-boggling amount of rope is used to fix the south side route: 6.2 miles or 32,808 feet or 10,00 meters! They use a nylon  kernmantle static rope design. The Sherpas are now fixing the continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Serious Climbing Begins, Death Update

The climbing is getting serious with teams now spread from 17,500′ to 21,500 at the base of the Lhotse Face. Sherpas are in full stride hauling tents, food, fuel and, critically, rope to fix the route to the summit on both sides. There are almost 450 “westerner” climbers on both sides of Everest right now and that many additional Sherpas or Tibetans. Climbing Everest has gone from a dream to reality for many. Leader Meeting at Base Camp, and a Death Billie Bierling made a startling note on her post today that a Sherpa had died at Base Camp saying continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Teams into the Western Cwm

As expected several teams spent the night at Camp 1. This was their first full climb through the Icefall, across the ladders and on the fixed ropes for an extended period. For most climbers, it would have taken 4 to 6 hours, some longer and a few didn’t make it. But this is all part of the process of acclimatization and they will get more comfortable as the season progresses. Once again, Adventure Consultants give us a good overview: After much anticipation, acclimatization and training the main team completed their first trip from BC to C1 in the early hours continue reading

 
Everest 2012:

Many, many good updates today from teams on both sides who are still at their base camps finishing Pujas or training before their first true climbs higher. Let’s start today with some solid information from the north side of Everest. You will see how very different it is than EBC -South whereas it is on dirt not glacier. Again, the North side is much more rugged, dusty, cold and windy at Base Camp. Progress on the North Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies posted on their Everest North Base Camp, also known as Chinese Base Camp (CBC) set up: Having arrived continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Into the Icefall

Monday morning at Everest Base Camp! Just like at home, climbers are busy doing what climbers do on Everest as the trekkers become climbers. Base camp is a bee hive of activity. I would guess there are forty or more teams established at EBC-South each with their sprawling compound of tents. The rock and ice trails meander throughout the camps creating roads, cul de sacs, intersections and traffic jams – especially when a yak train comes through! Icefall Laybrath As expected teams are making their first climbs into the Khumbu Icefall. Usually, they go to the first ladder or perhaps continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Weekend Update April 15

This past week was critical for our Everest climbers. After 7 to 10 days of trekking they reached Base Camp on the South or, after the same amount driving, the Chinese Base Camp on the North. Thus it was time to unwind, rest and regroup for the real task ahead. The conditions seem to be excellent thus far. In early April it is quite normal to wake up to bitter cold, the early breakfast crowd begging for the sun to break over the Himalayan peaks. Then once you think it will be a nice day, just after lunch the clouds continue reading

 
Everest 2012: First view from Chinese Base Camp

Teams continue to settle into their base camps. On the south the usual routine is rise at 7:59, breakfast at 8, lunch at 12 or 1, dinner at 6 and bed at 7! In these early days, the main objective is to adjust to the high altitude of 17,500′. But another goal is to check everyone out on their crampon and fixed ropes techniques. While it may seem strange to go to Everest and still be asked to “prove” yourself on some aspects of climbing technique, it is an excellent idea. There are few places on the planet that “normal” continue reading

 
Everest 2012: A Matter of Perspective

It may be Friday the 13 but that is not all bad around the world, especially if you are at Everest Base Camp! Lot’s of good posts today as the climbers get their comms systems running and batteries recharged, literally and figuratively. Today is first day of the new year in the Tibetan calendar. Appreciation Let’s start today’s coverage with a simple comment from 70 year-old Bill Burke who is attempting a double summit – first from the south then travel to Tibet for a push on that side. As he treks to EBC -south he made this simple comment continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Puja at Base Camp

Everest climbers are all  over the Khumbu today, some are training on short ladders in base camp, others actually went into the Icefall, usually to the first ladders, to get a feel for what’s to come. And other are just resting. Island Peak Acclimatization First up a great report from Kristin Kobler along with some excellent pictures from their Island peak (Imja Tse) acclimatization climb. I love it when a 20,305′/6189m mountain is just the warm up! Base Camp Updates And a good overview of the Himex Base Camp from Greg Paul plus more nice pictures: We are two hours continue reading

 
Every 4 seconds, a New Case of Dementia in the World

Dementia and Alzheimer’s a Global Health Priority This is from a new study from the World Health Organization, WHO, that today declared Dementia and it’s most common form Alzheimer’s a global health crisis. Hopefully this will rally efforts around the world to find improved early detection, treatments and a cure. Worldwide, nearly 35.6 million people live with dementia. This number is expected to double by 2030 (65.7 million) and more than triple by 2050 (115.4 million). Dementia affects people in all countries, with more than half (58%) living in low- and middle-income countries. By 2050, this is likely to rise continue reading

 
Everest 2012:

The season is fully underway with teams on both sides of Everest at the base camps (EBC). Adventure Peaks reports: 10th April : Chris called today to say that the team have reached base camp they have just had a fantastic welcome lunch and all the team are in great spirits and feeling well. They are in awe of the amazing view presented to them at base camp of Everest’s North Face. They will hve a rest day tomorrow before starting their acclimatisation around base camp Remember to see the location of all the teams on the location matrix. I continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Australian Redo, Settling into EBC

Everest Base camp is alive! More teams arrived today including Himex and Adventure Consultants. The glacial outpost is full of yak bells, banging pots and pans, laughs, talks and 1000 yard stares. The Sherpa Train IMG reports having their Puja (more on this later) so their Sherpas are now headed higher to establish camps. They are sending 11 Sherpas to Camp 1 and another 33 to Camp 2! Think about those numbers. But more impressive is that they will make these trips is less than half the time of a fully acclimatized Westerner. Amazing people in so many ways. Bandar, continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Base Camp Open for Business!

As expected this weekend saw several teams arrive at Everest Base Camp on the South side after their week long trek from Lukla. Many more are scheduled to arrive today and tomorrow. Over on the north at least two teams have posted that they are en route. I will now begin to update the location table. Axe posted a good update on his trek before leaving for Tibet with an excellent picture of the sunrise over the Phewa Lake. Take a moment and read his entire post. Phil Purdy with Jagged Globe (JG) posted this nice update on arriving at continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Weekend Update April 8

The annual march through the Khumbu continued this first week of April 2012. The teahouses were full and so were the climbers in anticipation of reaching Everest Base Camp this weekend. Ian Ridley climbing with Jagged Globe reported from Everest Base Camp – Nepal: This morning we climbed up above Gorak Shep to  Kala Patter a hill at 5500m that overlooks BC, the Khumbu icefall and of course the summit of Mount Everest. It looked huge and  it seems incomprehensible that we may well be standing on the summit in 6  or 7 weeks time. We then descended to make continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Oxygen Issues, EBC is Ready

Kind of a quiet day today as most teams are in the upper  Khumbu and perhaps a few have arrived at Everest Base Camp on the south (Nepal). It is not surprising that they have not updated their sites. Arriving at EBC is a busy time so perhaps a quick call home is all that is required. More next week on those first few days at BC. Overall, everything is going well for being extremely early in the season, with one exception I will discuss at the end of this post. Here is today’s roundup: Teams Nearing EBC -South Eric continue reading

 
Everest 2012: A Journey through Tibet

It looks like the first teams trekking to Everest Base Camp – South will arrive this weekend. We have been following them all week and so far so good. Just the usual trek sniffles, coughs and aches along with some heavy downpours and a few inches of fresh snow. But the biggest complaints thus far has been weak cell phone signals and lost luggage. The action is heating up on the north as well. Today teams are starting the long drive either from Kathmandu or Lhasa to Everest Base Camp – North aka the Chinese Base Camp. While many choose continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Annapurna Circuit, Lobuche and More

Teams continue to make the march towards Everest Base Camp on the South, while there is the usual dearth of news from the North. I have learned over the years that North side teams have much more difficulty in updating their sites due to a variety of issues so in their case, no news is often good news. I’m sure we will hear about their travels soon. Today’s post is a potpourri of info. I encourage you to click on their links to see some great pictures.  So here it goes: Lama Geshe Anyone who has been to Everest, trek continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Icefall Route In, Climbers getting Close

Reports continue to come in from teams on their steady progress to Everest Base Camp. You can almost feel their pulse quickening from here! Heavy rain showers kept many teams hunkered down in the tea houses yesterday and today but most pushed on to the higher villages including Periche. Expect a few teams to arrive at EBC- South on Friday. Once there they will take a few days to get settled in before taking their first trip into the Icefall. Route to Camp 1 in Early In a bit of a surprise, IMG announced on their blog that the Icefall continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Trekking the Khumbu

In 1997, I trekked from Lukla to Everest Base Camp. Those three weeks changed my life forever. This first week of April 2012, thousands are doing the same journey and, I expect, with many experiencing the same results. We now have most of the Everest south teams en-route to Base Camp. Himex just reported as massive group of 55 (!) climbers, trekkers and Sherpas  as they are preparing climbs on three different mountains this season: Everest (24), Lhotse (7) and Nutpse (5). Nutpse is the most visible peak as you approach base camp situated on the Southwest corner of the continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Weekend Update April 1

Well the first significant week of Everest 2012 is competed with no serious issues. The Nepalese are issuing climbing permits as expected and the flights to Lukla are running on schedule, which is unexpected We have many reports from climbers and trekkers of arriving safely in Kathmandu, with their luggage and are now on the trek to Everest Base Camp. The trek will take between 7 and 10 days depending on the operator. While it is “only” 30 miles, it is the altitude that makes for the slow going. Teams arrive in Lukla at 9400’ and finish at Everest Base continue reading

 
Everest 2012: Interview with Sandra Leduc

This interview with Sandra Leduc is part of an ongoing series of interviews I do each season with Everest climbers. Not the famous, sponsored ones who get plenty of publicity but the regular people, who have full time jobs, full time families in many cases and climb for the love of climb. Please send me your suggestion for an interview. Now here’s Sandra: There are many ways to train for climbing Mt. Everest but Sandra must have one of the most unique methods – two years posting in Afghanistan working with Canada’s Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade (DFAIT). continue reading

 
Everest 2012: The Two Most Important Days on Everest for ...

When you are gone from home for 2 months, 60 days, 60 “sleepies”; it takes a toll. Every day, and night, is important but there are two that stand alone; especially for those left at home. Climbing is about unknowns. Climbers accept, even thrive, in that no-mans land. Back home it is different. Today, March 30, many climbers are catching their flights from Kathmandu to Lukla. In spite of its primitive environment, often Kathmandu is the last time climbers speak at ease with home. The phone connection is solid, sometimes; both parties are upbeat, sometimes; and everyone knows what they continue reading

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