Everest 2018: Weather Stalls Summits

Looks like there will be limited activity on Everest from Monday night to Tuesday, May 14 morning. The weather forecast, from all sources, showed a “squall” coming in and it appeared right on schedule. There were supposed to be 100 climbers attempting the summit early 15 May. Many teams are now at Camps 1, 2 […]
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 1 – 1st Foreign Summits from Nepal – Update 3

With good weather on Sunday into early Monday morning, Mt. Everest has become a beehive of activity with at least 50 summits thus far. Teams on both sides are currently climbing from base camp to the higher camps in anticipation of making their summit bids through this week. A small front moved through on Monday […]
Everest 2018: Weekend Update May 13

As last week was so quiet, this upcoming week will be like riding a wild horse. It appears, the winds have finally calmed and the jet stream has moved away from Everest thus allowing the ropes to be set to the summit on the Nepal (South) side Sunday afternoon and perhaps early Monday morning on […]
Everest 2018: Winds Calming, Summit Pushes Begin

OK, it finally looks like the real deal is on for #Everest2018. Multiple teams are reported to be leaving base camps on both sides to get in position for summits between May 14-20. Other teams are content to let this first wave pass, then to look at the next window. The long term forecast had […]
Everest 2018: High Winds Persist

As we get into summit time, I will be posting several times a day when new information dictates. The winds were forecasted to calm on 11 May but that doesn’t seem to be the case. Reports from the Nepal side calls for climbers to stay put as the winds continue to gale at all altitudes. The […]
Everest 2018: Summit Strategies as Forecast Improves, Helicopter for Boyan

An atmosphere of optimism has overtaken Everest as the winds are predicted to calm, and the temperature warms. Climbers are feeling the summit in their bones for the first time this season. The schedule appears to be: fixed ropes to the summit over the next few days, first member summits around 13th May and then […]
Everest 2018: Stunning Video of Fall, Helicopter for Boyan, Teams Prep for Summit

All is well on Everest but communications on the Nepal side from base camp was disrupted when an early morning lightening storm took out part of the Wifi system. Updates are sporadic now. Teams are all over the region from base camp to Kathmandu to Shanghai! Packing Up, Heading up and Waiting All eyes are on […]
Everest 2018: Waiting and Packing-Summit Time Approaches

The excitement is building as team after team is packing for their summit push. All the years of saving, dreaming and training are coming to a head over the week. A large snow blast hit the upper Khumbu Icefall in mid day but no one was injured. While they were packing, It was quiet with […]
Everest 2018: The New Generation of Everest Guides Making Their Mark

With the #Everest2018 season pausing for wind, I wanted to explore a few trends that are in full demonstration this season. All is well on both sides of the mountain today albeit with big winds and thunder and lightening reported at the Nepal Base Camp on Wednesday 9 May 2018. All bets are that the […]
Missing Climber on Shishapangma

Bulgarian Boyan Petrov (45) is reported missing on the only 8000-meter peak fully within Tibet, Shishapangma. The working assumption is that he left for the summit, alone, and never made it. He left base camp with other climbers on 29 April but choose to stay when others left as the weather detoriated. He was spotted […]