Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's

Everest 2018: Summit Plans Developing

We are entering the sixth week of the #Everest2018 season and overall it’s going quite well. Today, Monday 7 May saw climbers on both sides mostly at their base camps waiting for the ropes to get set to the summit but a few tried to go higher and were thwarted by high winds. The rope […]

Everest 2018: Nepal Silly Rules Strikes Again

In what would be celebrated by most countries for skill and an attraction to others, Willie Benegas and Matt Moniz skied down the Lhotse Face this weekend. They proudly posted their accomplishment on Facebook and now, instead of being lauded by the Nepal Ministry, they are being attacked for not following silly and secret rules. […]

Everest 2018: Weekend Update May 6

It’s early May on Everest so that must mean the wind is blowing, and how it blows! Most teams are back in their base camps waiting out what is forecasted to be several days of 100mph/160kph winds above 8000 meters on both sides. This means no rope fixing, no reaching 8000 meters for acclimatization for […]

Everest 2018: Skiing and Waiting

The winds have arrived on both sides of Everest above 7,000 meters and may get worse before reducing in speed. It is testing the patience of some but for the veterans, this is normal and understand that patience is key. Given the winds are at fairly high elevation, teams are still able to go on […]

Everest 2018: Taking Weather Risks

Dhaulagiri 2017 high winds. courtesy of Peter Hamor

Everything has been going so well on #Everest2018 that it had to end soon given the history of this mountain. It seems that not everyone is happy about the rope fixing and with high winds about to hit some are taking risks to summit and return before it hits on Cho Oyu. Everest teams are […]

Everest 2018: The Climb to Honor Ueli Steck

In late March, Tenjing “Tenji” Sherpa wrote on his Facebook page “Happy 4th months Birthday to my little princess, Chhenzum. Sometimes when I need a miracle, I look into my daughter’s eyes and I realize I’ve already created one.” The Sherpa wished for a miracle one year ago, almost to the day, when he was […]

Everest 2018: Pushing Hard before the Wait

Everest Plume

Sometimes you have to go slow to go fast. But right now, the pressure is building to get the last acclimatization rotations in as the weather looks to be turning on Everest for the worse. After a fast start for the rope fixing teams, they may get stalled for a week or more. Weather Woes […]

Everest 2018: Inside the Mind During the Last Rotation

Setting the Fixed rope on the Lhotse Face on Everest

This week may be the most important week, including the summit attempt, of the Everest 2018 season. Climbers on both the Tibet and Nepal sides are making their last acclimatization rotations before the summit attempt, still a couple weeks away. Once completed they begin the waiting game back at base camp. They will need four […]

Everest 2018: Mid Season Summary

As we enter May, let’s look at the Everest season thus far and what to expect. Overall if there is one word for the season it might be “boring” 🙂 OK, not exactly for those who are doing the work. Actually “no bad surprises” might be a more accurate phrase Big Picture On both sides […]

Everest 2018: A Summit and a Death

Over the weekend there was good and sad news. The first 8000 meter summit was made on Lhotse and the first 8000 meter death occurred on Dhaulagiri. Teams are being aggressive on Everest with their acclimatization schedules, some already at Camp 3 on the Nepal side a d North Col on the Tibet side. Lhotse […]