Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's

Everest 2018: Weekend Update April 28

Icefall Doctors on Everest

It was another good week on Everest. While it was windy and snowy at times, overall teams on both sides did well. There was one accident on the Nepal side when a tall serac in the Icefall collapsed onto the route injuring two Sherpas. As we enter May, talk of summit dates will increase. It […]

Everest 2018: The Risks of Everest

An avalanche off the West Shoulder of Everest onto the Khumbu Icefall in 2008.

Climbing any mountain has inherent risks and Everest is no different. While, the death rate is actually lower in recent years compared to when commercialization began in the early 1990’s, people still get hurt and die each season. It has been snowing on both side of the mountain. A few of the Nepal side teams […]

Everest 2018: The Day Nepal Shook

Pangboche Earthquake Damage

Some memories are so etched into your essence, that they will never go away and they will always be clear. The day my mom asked me “Now, who are you again?” The day I met Di and publicly committed to her in our backyard three years later. The day the Khumbu Glacier dropped by inches […]

Everest 2018: The Challenge of Acclimatization

Everest Oxygen

It has been a good day on Everest as climbers are working hard to acclimitize. Teams on the Nepal side are all over the Hill, from base camp to Camp 2 while it’s a similar map on the Tibet side with teams now at Advanced Base Camp. We are hearing from a few climbers who […]

Everest 2018: The Right Age for Everest

It’s busy on Everest just as it should be in late April. We have teams at Camp 2 on the South side and ABC on the North. Ropes are going higher so all is well. In this post I review the action and take a look at the best age to climb Everest. Icefall Update […]

Everest 2018: Stormy Future for Everest and the Other 8000ers?

All is well on Everest, except for the normal issues associated with acclimatizing. I’m seeing a lot of talk about the weather so this post looks at what they may expect across the Himalaya and whats happening on the other peaks. Ropes to C3! On the Nepal side, great news with the ropes now set […]

Everest 2018: Weekend Update April 21

Aconcagua

For some Everest climbers, they left home a month ago, others are leaving today. But for all, they’re dreaming of summits in a just a few weeks. The season continues smoothly with little issues and good progress on both sides. The weather remains good. Ropes are being set on the Nepal side, soon on the […]

Everest 2018: A Normal Day

All is well on both sides of Everest as we enter the weekend. The China Tibet Mountaineering Association announced that 150 foreigners have been given permits on the Tibet side. This compares to 336 foreign permits issued on the Nepal side according to the Nepal Ministry of Tourism. This is slightly down from last year. […]

Everest 2018: First Climbers into the Western Cwm

Right on schedule, the first members are in the Western Cwm. The Sherpas have already been making trips there to establish the camps. While it is short in distance, the altitude makes it long in time. These are the distances and usual times from Everest Base Camp on the Nepal (south) side for a foreigner […]

Everest 2018: Interview with Matt Moniz – Extraordinary Youth

This interview with Matt Moniz is one of an ongoing series I do each season with Everest climbers. Not the famous, sponsored ones who get plenty of publicity but the regular people, who often have full-time jobs, full time families and climb for the love of the climb. Most climbers are already at base camp […]