After what some are calling a historic day with summits on four of the 8000-meter peaks mainly by the rope teams, the mountains remain busy on Wednesday morning in Nepal as this 2 day window comes to a close. The ropes on the Tibet side reached 8300 meters but the fixers are retreating in advance of forecasted high winds.
I’ll update the summits using the terminology “Summit Wave.” Yesterday was Summit Wave 0 with the outstanding work of the Sherpas to get the ropes to the summit. I’ll primarily focus on Everest but when information is available for the other 8000ers, I’ll add it.
Big Picture – Good News, Bad News
OK, the ropes are in on the Nepal side. That’s the good news. The jet stream is forecasted to move back on top of the summit for 5 to 7 days. That’s the bad news. And the ropes are not on the Tibet side summit. More bad news.
So it was and is exciting to see how many people will summit this Wednesday morning in Nepal as they will get to go home now! (once they get back to Kathmandu!)
Nepal updated their permit list to show 379 member permits were issued. Double that with the Sherpas in support and subtract a handful that are trying right now, around 30, and that leaves 728 humans all planning their summit push between May 20/21 and 29/30. Or 9 days.
IF the jet behaves itself and stays away, 9 days is tight but doable to accommodate that many climbers. If it returns early or leaves late, this year might be tough. There are a lot of conversation going on within the guide community right now.
Nepal – Summit Pushes underway
More for May 15 Happening NOW!
Teams that should be on their bid or even summited with this post at 7:30 am Wednesday, May 15, 2019.:
- Climbing The Seven Summits’s private team
- Ascent Himalaya
Myrmidon Expeditions with Kristie Ennis – you can follow her progress on her tracker
May 15 Summits
Seven Summits Trek’s Indian Team: Seven Summits Treks says the team leader, Kami Rita Sherpa summited. at 7:50 am but no word on the rest of the team. This was Kami Rita’s 23 summit.
To wrap up yesterday, May 14:
Madison Mountaineering‘s Garrett Madison and Himalayan Guides who are hosting/managing the rope team said 8 Sherpas got the ropes to the summit at 1:15 on the 14th. No members were reported to have summited.
Imagine Nepal’s Mingma Sherpa put 12 people on the summit of Lhotse on Tuesday, May 14th including the first Greeks and Pakistani.
Tibet – Planning
With the ropes still not to the summit, the Tibet side teams were forced to skip this narrow window and plan for the one after May 20. The ropes are at Camp 3, around 8300-meters/27,230-feet. So lots of planning activity on this side as the same window should emerge for them. Look for teams to leave Chinese Base Camp this weekend or sooner.
The New Line
Alpenglow posted this update on the new route:
The 5 Sherpa rope team from Seven Summits Treks on Makalu got to the summit at 8:45 on the 14th. Other climbers turned back due to extreme cold. It was reported to be -18F/27C!! There are more climbers trying this morning, Wednesday, May 15.
Summit by Sarah Strattan and guide Brad Johnson in what Brad described as “perfect conditions.”
Kanchenjunga Summits May 15!
And 6 Sherpas stood on the top of Mt Kangchenjunga at 15:10 on the 14th from Seven Summits Treks. And the success continued on the 15th with 5 members with 5 Seven Sumits Treks Sherpas (
no names provided for the Sherpas!)
1. VIRIDIANA ALVAREZ CHAVEZ – MEXICO
2. KLARA KOLOUCHOVA – CZECH REPUBLIC
3. SOHPIE MARIE LAVAUD – SWITZERLAND
4. STEFAN IVANOV STEFANOV- BULGARIA
5. TOMAZ ROTAR – REPUBLIC OF SLOVENIA
1. CHHEPAL SHERPA – OKHALDHUNGA 🇳🇵
2. GYALU SHERPA- OKHALDHUNGA
3. LAKPA TEMBA SHERPA – SHANKHUWASABHA
4. NGIMA THENDUK SHERPA – SHANKHUWASABHA
5. DAWA SANGAY SHERPA -SANKHUWASABHA
6. PECHHUMBE SHERPA- SANKHUWASABHA
7. ANG KAMI SHRRPA- SANKHUWASABHA
8. KASANG DAWA SHERPA- SANKHUWASABHA
While not an 8000ers, Nuptse is a constant for anyone climbing Everest or Lhotse as it defines the south side of the horseshoe. Tim Mosedale and a small Sherpa team are working on a project to climb Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest then Everest again from the Tibet side. Well they gave climb #1 – Nuptse their best but its a tough, challenging , dangerous climb. Read Tim’s full post for the details but heres the money quote:
The route finding ahead was into the unknown and I didn’t want to create a situation where we felt we had to keep on going just because that’s what we’d been doing. I fretted for a while torn between success and failure … but if success is safe descent then I guess we’ve managed a modicum of that. I was struggling with the whole ‘Social Media’ and ‘what will my gear sponsors think’? But then if we did summit but it turned in to an epic descent and one of us dropped a torch / got injured / dropped a glove then obviously everyone would be saying “why did they feel that they ought to go on?” So as far as I’m concerned, given where we were at the time we were there in the condition we were in with the prevailing weather… It was a sound mountaineering decision.
Memories are Everything!