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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
May 102021

We can expect summits in the next 24 hours from many commercial teams. There are some comments suggesting summits have occurred daily since last Friday when the ropes reached the top, but that’s unconfirmed. The winds are amazingly low, under 15 mph on the summit according to multiple computer models. I’ll be posting updates on another post throughout the push.

Bubble or No Bubble

The posts from the commercial climbs seem to betray the truth. They talk of bubbles and no visitors yet fly their members to lower villages claiming all is safe with isolation there. They did use the same teahouses on the trek in so there is some commonality, and they are staying within their own team. However, they will still be interacting with new people from helicopter pilots, lodge owners, cooks, and the occasional trekker who didn’t get the memo. Seems ill-advised to this observer.

Txikon Quits

Alex Txikon who wanted to summit sans Os ends his effort:

Here ends # Everest2021 … We consider the expedition concluded out of a sense of responsibility due to pandemic advance. A thoughtful and consensual decision between Sendoa, Iñaki and myself after acclimating in C2 last two nights and having verified that the health situation of the entire mountain is complicated. We thank the efforts of local agencies, especially Seven Summit Treks, all the people who accompanied us and all the friends we left at BC in this context of a global pandemic.

Lhotse “conquered” with Summit Ropes

Note the definition of the word conquer is “overcome and take control of (a place or people) by use of military force.” From Seven Summits Treks:

The team of fixing Sherpas (6) reached the summit of Mt. Lhotse 8516m this evening 18:45(Nepal Time), 6 climbing Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks under the management of Expedition Operators of Nepal (EOA) have reached the top of Mount Lhotse, becoming the first climbers of the season to conquer the world’s fourth-highest peak.
Name list of Fixing Team:
1) Tenjing Sherpa – Makalu-1
2) Phurtenje Sherpa -Makalu 2
3) Ngima Tashi Sherpa -Thame-5
4) Fura Tshering Sherpa – Thame-5
5) Tenging Gyaljen Sherpa – Phortse -4
6) Furba kusang Sherpa- Makalu -2
~ Same Sherpa fixed the rope to the summit of Lhotse within 3 Days after fixing to the top of Everest on 7 May.

Bold emphasis is mine.

More Silly Rules … from China

The mainstream press parrotted China’s press release that “China will set up “a line of separation” at the summit of Mount Everest to prevent the mingling of climbers from Covid-hit Nepal and those ascending from the Tibetan side as a precautionary measure.” China has almost 30 climbers on their side. Tye closed the peak to foreigners but allowed one national team to climb this year. Also in this report from China.

The summit of Everest is about the size of a room. The approach from Tibet is steeper than from Nepal but both routes meet that the same apex. There are prayer flags, a snow bench carved for people to sit on and artifacts left by previous climbers. Most people spend 15 to 30 minutes on the summit, almost all wearing their oxygen mask except when they get their summit photo taken so as to show their full face. The idea of a barrier, line, fence, etc. is beyond silly, it’s downright laughable. Another press stunt that the media swallowed.

Donate Oxygen Bottles

The Nepal Mountaineering Association has asked the climbers to bring unused and empty oxygen bottles back to Kathmandu for use in hospitals. For decades, teams have brought bottles back but kept them to be refilled and used for the next climb. They cost about $600 each and one member will use from four to six for the season while a Sherpa will half that amount.

The Other 8000ers

Dhaulagiri – Avalanche Ends New Route Bid

It appears this season is over on Dhaulagiri, but not 100% confirmed. Topo Mena and Carla Pérez made a valiant to C3 but were thwarted by avi danger and once the commercial gang organized by Seven Summits Treks arrived, they also retreated.

Peter Hamor, Horia Colibasanu, and Marius Gane were buried while they slept at C3 by an avalanche on the Northwest Ridge. They cut their way out of the tent and are retreating to base camp to determine their next move.

The Swiss/French climber, Sophie Lavaud hoping to lead a female contingent to the summit, tested positive and has left. The theory is that many of the Annapurna climbers went to Pokara between climbs and contracted the virus there. Apparently, the order from the Nepal government to s=trs between climbs was ignored.  


And confusion and poor organization over on Makalu. Climbers are being told they cannot go alone as they prepare for their summit bid (seems like this could have been covered before leaving home!)

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

The Podcast on

You can listen to #everest2021 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, Google Podcasts, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, YouTube, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.

Comments on/from Facebook

  One Response to “Everest 2021: Mixed Messages, Lhotse Summits”


    To play devil’s advocate, it’s probably a good thing that the Chinese line of separation got a lot of publicity in case it ends up as an attempt at a land grab and a border dispute.