Month: May 2021

After a reported 28 people (10 members with 18 Sherpa) summited on Monday, May 31, a few final teams are underway. Also more details on the C3 situation re: avalanches. By my count: 167 members with 284 Sheras thus far, for a total of 451 summits.

A reported 16 people (6 members with 10 Sherpas) took a gamble and summited on Monday, May 31 at 7:00 am. They evaluated the risky avalanche conditions after feet on fresh snow and used their powerful Sherpa resources to break the trail for their clients to the top. Well done by all and congratulations on dodging the ball.

This was a tough week on Everest with Cyclone Yaas pummeling the Hill with heavy snow.  Most teams have wisely ended their season but one or two are still pulling their clients higher. Thankfully, the Cyclone appears to have moved on.

Heavy snow continues on Everest, but a couple of teams at C2 hoping for a summit window from May 29-31.

Garrett Madison tells me from Base Camp around 10 am Friday, May 28, “Snowing hard here in EBC..climbers worried now about too much snow & avalanche danger on the Lhotse face…SPCC closing the icefall May 31, if climbers stay longer up high they might need to helicopter out from C2”

Heavy snow was reported on Everest, but some teams are reporting low winds. Once again, the truth is opaque on Everest. The gag order by the Nepal government has had a dramatic impact on teams’ willingness to share any information that could be construed as negative, thus all the happy talk. A handful of teams are still eyeing the end of the month for one last try.

Cyclone Yaas is expected to touch Everest for another 24 to 48 hours or until May 29, thus leaving an opening as early as Saturday but more likely Sunday and Monday. No doubt any team trying to make this last chance will be met with deep snow. It will take a strong group of many Sherpas to break trail.  Avalanche risk may be present especially since the teams will not have the choice to wait a day or two for the layers to bond.

Meanwhile, in a press release, Nepal’s home ministry calls expedition agencies and tourism officials ‘to make an immediate return of climbers from mountains.” Most computer-based weather forecasts call for winds to decrease to under 15 mph starting on Sunday, May 30.

If it’s not COVID, it’s the winds. two more teams end their expedition early telling climbers, “it’s over.” A handful are still eyeing the end of the week for one last try.

With Cyclone Yaas making landfall in India, the winds are touching Everest. Nepal’s Meteorological Forecasting Division said the storm is now in the process of ‘weakening’, but will impact the weather in Nepal till Saturday. Not good news for those holding for it to pass. The Icefall Docs said they will shut down the route on May 31, Saturday. However, they might be talked into another extension.

With Cyclone Yaas making landfall in India, the winds are touching Everest. The past 24 to 48 hours have been a bit difficult for teams descending from the Monday morning summit. Other teams are holding for the storm to pass aiming for summit bids later this week. Some random points from this season.

The 2021 season is winding down with fewer climbers on each wave. Sadly, a Sherpa died at the South Col. It appears that less than 25 summited on Tuesday morning with some teams still holding back waiting to see how Cyclone Yaas will impact the mountain. Many operators are targeting the morning of May 26 for summits.

Teams are headed for the summit tonight, Sunday, May 23, 2021, aiming for Monday morning summits.

With the Icefall now being opened to May 31, the remaining teams at base camp will have the option of sitting out any impact from Cyclone Yaas on Tuesday and targeting May 27th or 28th for their summit and returning by the end of the month to base camp.