Everest – Successful Ski Descent
Jim Morrison, 50, successfully skied from the summit down the Hornbein Couloir on the north face of Everest. This had been a long-time dream for Morrison, but also to honor his late partner, Hilaree Nelson, who died tragically in 2022 on Nepal’s Manaslu after they summited together. Morrison dedicated the record-breaking achievement to her.
He was supported by a massive team including Erich Roepke, Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Esteban “Topo” Mena, Carla Perez, Roberto “Tico” Morales, Pur Bahadur “Yukta” Gurung, Ngima Tenjing Sherpa, Pemba Gelje Sherpa, Tenging Gyaljen Sherpa and Pasang Sona Sherpa.
Sponsored by The North Face and National Geographic, filmmaker Jimmy Chin, with others on the team, documented the descent and will release a documentary. NatGeo has a long, detailed article on the descent.
A Legend Dies
Kancha Sherpa, 92, the last surviving member of the historic 1953 expedition that first summited Everest, passed away on Thursday at his home in Kapan, Kathmandu. Pattie Moon wrote an excellent book on Kanchha, Tough and Cheerful: The Life and Times of Kanchha Sherpa, Last Living Member from the First Ascent of Mount Everest.
Manaslu – ~400 Summits, Almost Over
It looks like the primary Manaslu season ended with around 400 summits, clients and support climbers. Nepal issued permits to 457 climbers from 47 expedition teams, including 347 men and 110 women. At least 192 members, supported by 195 Sherpas, reached what they claimed was the true summit. The five Sherpa rope team reached the summit on September 20, 2025.
One last team is attempting what they claim is a new route on Manaslu’s Southwest Face. The Russian team has four climbers.
Cho Oyu – ~25+ Summits
Two more teams summit Cho Oyu last week: Adventure Consultants and Madison Mountaineering. IFMGA guide Chhiring Sherpa finished his 8000ers on Cho Oyu with a speed climb from Base Camp to the summit.
Makalu – Over (Deep Snow) – No Summits
Russian climbers Denis Aleksenko of Russia and Artem Tsentsevitsky ended their attempt at 7867 meters on the 8485m peak, thwarted by deep snow.
Dhaulagiri – 33+ Summits
After the initial 25 summits (11 clients, 14 support climbers), more summits were reported: Spanish Jorge Egocheaga, Chinese climber Ping Lu, French climber Catherine Bury with Nurbu Sherpa, Taraman Tamang, and Pemba Tasi Sherpa. Pavlo Sydorenko summited with Ashok Lama.
Ama Dablam – Climbing
There is also activity on the popular pointy peak, Ama Dablam, at 6812 meters. The ropes reached the summit on October 12, 2025, with commercial summits immediately following. I expect a similar number to last year, when 578 people summited (321 clients, 257 support climbers) for a 57% summit rate.
Shishapangma – Closed
No climbers are scheduled to climb the only 8000er entirely within Tibet this autumn.
Next Up
The climbing activity moves to Puncak Jaya or Carstensz Pyramid on the island of New Guinea, with an elevation of 4,884 m (16,024 ft). Madison Mountaineering is there with Art Muir, who is the oldest American to summit Mount Everest, at age 75, on May 23, 2021. Carstensz will be the last of his Seven Summits. By the way, Norwegian climbing legend Kristin Harlia is part of the Madison team. Kristin is known for climbing all fourteen 8000ers in 92 days in 2023.
Also on the climbing agenda are Kilimanjaro, Antarctica’s Vinson Massif and, around New Year’s, Argentina’s Aconcagua.
Safe climbing to all.
Climb On!
Alan,
Memories are Everything
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