Deaths on Carstensz Pyramid, one of the Seven Summits, are rare, but two women tragically lost their lives on March 1 while descending during a storm. The 4,884-meter (16,024-foot) peak poses challenging logistics and is the most technical of the seven, requiring basic rock climbing skills for primarily 5th-class terrain on fixed ropes.
Unselfish Rescue
First made public on his social media page, Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering reported that he, Tashi Lakpa Sherpa and fellow guide Ben Jones of Alpine Ascents International quickly climbed the headwall upon hearing of at least five people stranded and in trouble.
Rousing my longtime friends Ben Jones & Tashi Lakpa Sherpa, we assessed the situation, made a plan, taking with us hot water, altitude medicine, food, and rescue gear. We made good time, as we had summitted with our teams two days ago and were acclimatized, reached the two lifeless bodies after about 45 minutes climbing up the route. Ben confirmed they had no pulse.We continued climbing up to the ridge, passed the cable traverse and the first ‘step across’ section then found the other 3 climbers huddled together. They were alive but appeared hypothermic and fatigued: confused, unable to move on their own, normal symptoms given the situation. We began warming them, administered Dexamethasone, provided hot water with electrolytes, GU energy gel (Roctane), and warm / dry clothing. We began the descent, working together, and made relatively good progress, reaching base camp mid afternoon, while other guides worked to bring the 2 bodies down.We were lucky, blessed with great weather today, arriving in base camp just before the rain started. It would have been another story if the typical ‘heavy rain / wet snow’ was falling…
15 Person Team
Further details were published today in the Jakarta Globe. Authorities identified the deceased as Lilie Wijayanti Poegiono from Jakarta and Elsa Laksono from Bandung, both aged 60. They reported that the women died from acute mountain sickness and severe hypothermia. They were part of a 15-person group that included members from Turkey and Russia, along with five Indonesian guides.
They flew by helicopter to the base camp on Wednesday, February 26, the standard method due to security concerns about hiking through the dense forest. They departed for the summit on February 28 at 4 a.m. However, an intense storm with snow, rain, and high winds moved in, which is typical since the area is a rain forest as the group descended from the summit on Saturday.
Madison and team rescued three climbers identified as Indira Alaika, Alvin Reggy Perdana, and Saroni. Local authorities reported that they were flown by helicopter, along with their deceased teammates, from base camp.
Rare Deaths, Not Unheard of
Carstensz is recognized as a safe climb due to its short duration, the use of helicopters today, and a better approach to crossing a deep ravine than the traditional Tyrolean traverse.
At least two fatalities have occurred in recent years. In October 2024, a Chinese climber named Dong Fei tragically fell to his death during his descent. He was using an Italian hitch—also known as a Munter hitch or friction hitch—for rappelling down the headwall instead of a conventional belay device like an ATC or figure-eight. Additionally, on September 29, 2024, an Indonesian climber of Chinese descent reportedly died from what appeared to be a heart attack.
Recently Re-Opened
Since 2019, Carstensz has been closed due to conflicts in Western Papua between the Indonesian government and Free Papua rebels. Indonesian authorities have restricted foreign visitors to the region around the peak and national park, citing safety concerns.
My condolences to the families of the deceased, and a massive hat tip to Garrett, Tashi, and Ben for their unselfishness in giving aid.
Climb On!
Alan
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One thought on “Two Dead on Carstensz Pyramid-Update with Video”
Once again alanarnette.com providing correct details of the Carstenz story ( unlike EW ). Thanks as always
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