Everest 2021: Weekend Update plus Cyclone Update
A big day of summits on Sunday, May 23, 2021, albeit in blustery conditions. I estimate over 40 members supported by a stunning 67 Sherpas summited. It appears a similar number is headed up Sunday night for a Monday morning summit before snow and winds return. Lhotse also had many summits.
Everest 2021: Summit Wave 3 Wrap Up
A big day of summits on Sunday, May 23, 2021, albeit in blustery conditions. I estimate over 40 members supported by a stunning 67 Sherpas summited. It appears a similar number is headed up Sunday night for a Monday morning summit before snow and winds return. Lhotse also had many summits.
Everest 2021: Summit Wave 3 – Update 3
It’s unclear what is happening on Everest late Saturday night, Nepal time. I’ve checked with several teams and there is little to no communications from the South Col. Hgh winds and a lenticular cloud is hovering over the summit. Usually, teams will NOT climb in these conditions. Another team canceled their expedition citing COVID.
Everest 2021: Risk Management
Teams are making serious summit plans with a few already staged rat the South Colin albeit windy conditions. In fact, it’s too windy to go for the summit so they will hold in place Saturday, May 22 hoping to leave late Saturday night for a Sunday, May 23rd summit. It’s all about risk management in this moment.
Everest 2021: Summit Plans
The remanence of Cyclone Tauktae is playing cat and mouse with the aggressive teams. Madison Mountaineering hoped to get a jump on everyone and went to C3 only to find high winds. Four Sherpas from IMG made it to the South Col and also reported high winds. So the summit plans are off by a day with Madison now targeting May 22.
Everest 2021: Will They Summit?
Between cyclones, an ever-shortening weather window, rising COVID rates, and now the Icefall Doc saying the route will be closed on Saturday, May 29, what are the chances of seeing summits? Excellent, I’d say. Let’s break it down.
Everest 2021: Sherpa Death, 2nd Cyclone on the Way
Sad news from Everest with the third death of the season. A second cyclone is developing in the Bay of Bengal that has the potential to impact Everest around May 25, as Cyclone TC01A aka Tauktae bears down on Nepal but should clear out soon. Teams are leaving C2 for their summit bid now, targeting May 22 for the summit.
Everest 2021: Video Interview with Lukas Furtenbach After Cancellation
Lukas Furtenbach, of Austrian-based Furtenbach Adventures made global headlines after he canceled his spring 2021 Everest expedition on the Nepal side last Friday. This follows the Chinese decision to cancel their only team on the Tibet side. Meanwhile, the officials responsible for the safety of guests climbing in Nepal deny climbers have COVID at Everest Base Camp. I interviewed Lukas from Everest Base Camp on his Tuesday morning, may 18, 2021. We covered a lot of other topics including:
Planning knowing COVID was a possibility at base camp
Furtenbach Adventure’s COVID protocol from vaccines (members and Sherpas) to time in Kathmandu, Everest Base Camp, and the High Camps
Quarantining members and SHerpas
COVID Testing
Other teams at EBC
Final events leading to the cancellation decision
Getting members and support back home with the airport closed
Donating Furtenbach’s oxygen and bottles to hospitals in Nepal
Pakistan climbing plans (also canceled)
What could have been done differently?
Any regrets?
Everest 2021: “Climbers Stand Down”
The good news is the jet stream is easing off Everest as it moves north, the bad news is a cyclone skirting the west coast of India is expected to turn right running perpendicular to the Himalayas bringing strong weather along with it. It could “flood the mountain” according to meteorologist Chris Tomer and Everest Weather’s Michael Fagin. Chris has told his clients on Everest and Makalu to “stand down” and wait this event out.
Cyclone TC01A aka Tauktae is predicted to bring heavy snow, perhaps two feet to Dhaulagiri, and strong winds to Makalu and Everest on May 18-21. Chris and Michael both think it will be a relatively fast event and summit bids can continue after the 22nd. That would leave plenty of time for the remaining 300 climbers to get up and off before the traditional end of Nepal side around May 31. So much for my talk of a “short season” just yesterday!
Everest 2021: Weekend Update May 16
It was a big week of news on Everest this past week from client summits to a major operator canceling their expedition. This next week looks to be even bigger with 300 people trying to summit beginning May 19.