K2 2023 Coverage: Climbing Begins
Climbing on K2 has finally begun for the estimated 250 people there. They’ve been stalled by weeks of poor weather. Similarly, activity is picking up on Pakistan’s four other 8000-meter peaks. While it may seem late, most K2 summits occur at the end of July, so while the delay is annoying for the teams, it doesn’t pose a big problem. The larger issue is the condition of the mountain with the recent heavy snows and, now, an increased avalanche danger. The flip side of this is perhaps with the snow, rockfall will be less this year. #k2023
K2 2023 Karakorum: Nanga Parbat Climber Safe at Base Camp
Good news from Nanga Parbat with reports that Pakistani climber Asif Bhatti who became snowblind and was stranded at 7300m at Camp 4, is now back to base camp. Karrar Haidri, Secretary Alpine Club of Pakistan issued this statement:
Asif Bhatti arrived at Base Camp safely. He will be taken to Skardu by an army chopper from Nanga Parbat Base Camp. He’ll return to Islamabad after obtaining first care.
He has been assisted by Azerbaijan climber Israfil Ashurli who without a doubt saved his life when he joined him at Camp 4 and helped him though the difficult rock faces to C2. Mohammed Younis and Fazal Ali met them between C2 and C3 and then helped Bhatti to base camp. For a full good end to this story, we need to see Ashurli reach base camp. #k2023
Similar conditions last year caused most professional climbers to abandon Nanga. And even this year, seasoned professional Marco Confortola turned back, demonstrating excellent judgment in light of poor climbing conditions: #k2023
K2 2023 Karakorum: Nanga Parbat Death and Missing Summits
One climber died on July 3rd, and another needed rescue on Nanga Parbat. Polish media, wspinanie.pl reported that Paweł Kopeć died from Acute Mountain Sickness near Camp 4 at 7300 meters. He had summited with teammates Piotr Krzyżowski, and Waldemar Kowalewski. Reports from other climbers that day were of poor weather, even rain and high winds at the summit.
Similar conditions last year caused most professional climbers to abandon Nanga. And even this year, seasoned professional Marco Confortola turned back, demonstrating excellent judgment in light of poor climbing conditions: #k2023
K2 2023 Karakorum Update: More Nanga Summits
Summits continue on Nanga Parbat as teams arrive at K2 Base Camp. What used to be considered a massive technical challenge is now routine, with the Nepal guides using Everest techniques to fix rope, break trails, and establish camps. #k2023
K2 2023 Summer Coverage
The summer climbing season is fully underway, with summits on Nanga Parbat. Nepali operators are overpowering the peaks with a massive number of Sherpa support to fix ropes and break trail. Seven Summits Treks reported a massive team of twenty people, ten clients with ten Sherpas. #k2023
Podcast with Author, Journalist Billi Bierling of the Himalayan Database
Close followers of mountaineering know the Himalayan Database and Ms. Elizabeth Hawley. Who you may not know is Billi Bierling who worked with Ms. Hawley since 2004 and continues her work today along with a small team in Kathmandu and the US.
Billi, born in the Bavarian Alpine resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, is a well-traveled journalist working primarily for Swiss Humanitarian Aid as a communications expert. She also writes mountaineering articles for German and English-speaking magazines, translates or writes books and leads mountain treks and expeditions in Nepal and around the world. And she climbs mountains, big mountains including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Manaslu (fore summit) and Broad Peak – the latter three she summited without the help of supplemental oxygen.
Billi recently published a book, a memoir, Riding my Bike iN Kathmandu.
This in-depth podcast introduces us to Billi, her background in humanitarian work, her book and some of her climbs before discussing the changes we are seeing in the ever-commercialized world of mountaineering, especially in Nepal. Finally, we wrap up discussing the future of the Himalayan Database.
Grab a beverage or take a walk and please enjoy meeting Billi Bierling.
Everest 2023: Cho Oyu Summits and Everest Weather
Peak bagging season continues with summits on Tibet’s 8000ers. Look for some of the Annapurna summiteers to bag Makalu or Dhualagiri, then combo Everest and Lhotse. The weather is the wildcard this year if we see long lines like in 2019.
Big Picture
Teams are now scattered all over the Big Hill, working on their acclimatization, from EBC to Camp 3 just below the Lhotse Face. S spat of bad weather slowed some teams for a couple of days, but nothing serious. However, over on Dhaulagiri, reports from base camp note five feet of snow in the last few days. Carlos Soria must be quite nervous given this is his fourteenth at, and he’s 84 years old.
Everest 2023: Interview with Garrett Madison from Everest Base Camp
The #Everest2023 season is taking shape as teams continue to acclimatize with rotations to Camps 1 and 2, with some tagging Camp 3 at 23,000 feet or 7,000 meters. In this interview with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Everest Base Camp, we discuss the record permits, his acclimatization strategy, addressing the human waste problem, the long route through the Icefall and their attempt to summit the difficult and highly technical Nuptse. #everest2023
Everest 2023: American Dies at Camp 2
An American, Jonathan Sugarman, 69, died at Camp 2 on Everest on Tuesday, May 1, 2023. He was climbing with International Mountain Guides. The retired MD from the Seattle area trained diligently for the expedition and was feeling well. Last year, he summited Lobuche and Island Peak and reached Camp 3 on Everest. #everest2023
Everest 2023: Record Permits, Acclimatizations Underway
It’s mid-season, and there are mixed results on the ‘other’ 8000ers and a lot of movement on Everest. The ropes are now at the South Col, and the rope team estimates tagging the summit around May 10, depending on the weather. This is slower than previous estimates. Let’s take a look at acclimatization and climbing the Lhotse Face.