K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Poor Weather Slows Progress

K2 routes

Poor weather in the Karakorum has slowed climbing as the base camps continue to fill up with new teams. However, progress continues with the fixed ropes reaching low camps on several of the 8000ers and some climbers have spent multiple nights there already. That said, not a lot of new news this past week.

Manzoor Ahmad of Adventure Tours Pakistan who has a team on K2 and BP this season tells me of the exact numbers of permits issued in the Karakorum this summer with 75 support climbers for 128 foreigners. Note that many of the BP climbers are also on K2 so there are duplicates thus the total is less than 203, probably around 185.

K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Teams Climbing!

Tight space at Camp 1 on K2

Teams have arrived at K2 Base Camp and climbing has already begun with the fixed ropes to C1 on K2’s Abruzzi route and climbers at C1 on GI and reached C2 on Broad Peak.

Manzoor Ahmad of Adventure Tours Pakistan who has a team on K2 and BP this season tells me of the exact numbers of permits issued in the Karakorum this summer with 75 support climbers for 128 foreigners. Note that many of the BP climbers are also on K2 so there are duplicates thus the total is less than 203, probably around 185.

K2 2021 Summer Season Coverage Begins

Welcome to my annual coverage of the K2 summer climbing season. I will be reporting from my home in Colorado this year based on my personal experience of our successful 2014 K2 summit and covering the action the last six years. 2021 will see a less crowded Karakorum compared to pre-pandemic times. I estimate around 100 climbers on the large 8000ers this summer.

Denali 2021: Season RoundUp

Denali West Buttress Ridge

The 2021 climbing season on North America’s highest peak, Denali, is nearing the end. I take a look at some “fun facts” and how this season has progressed.

Everest 2021: Video Interview with Art Muir – Oldest American Summiter

Art Muir at age 75 became the oldest American to summit Mt. Everest on May 12, 2021, with Madison Mountaineering. He surpassed Bill Burke who held the American Everest age record for 11 years. Burke summited at age 67 on the Nepal side and again from the Tibet side in 2014 at 72. Japanese mountaineer Yoichiro Miura is the oldest person to summit in 2013 at age 80.

I spoke with Art about his motivation, how his family felt about his plans, his 2019 attempt, prior climbing experience then we got into his training, diet, and experience on the climb. We wrapped up with Art’s thoughts on seniors climbing and staying active.

Everest 2021 Season Summary: The Year Nepal Broke Everest

Satire sprinkled with a few annoying facts.

As I sat down to write a recap of the 2021 spring season on Everest, these words came to mind: COVID, coverup, lies, misdirection, personal attacks, denials. Oh, and cyclones, wind, waiting, risk, and yes, summits. But, oh my, at what a cost? If 2019 was the year Everest broke, 2021 was the year Nepal broke Everest.

Everest 2021: Wave 6 Recap. And the Season is a Wrap!

C2 in 2021 by Tashi Sherpa

A reported 41 people (22 members with 19 Sherpa) summited on Tuesday, June 1 ending the season. Others canceled for various reasons from health to conditions. Heavy snow stopped additional Lhotse summits. By my count: 195 members with 339 Sheras thus far, for a total of 534 summits. The season should be over now with the Icefall Doctors closing the route on June 3.

Everest 2021: More Summit Bids Underway. Wave 6

Everest plume from space courtesy of NASA

After a reported 28 people (10 members with 18 Sherpa) summited on Monday, May 31, a few final teams are underway. Also more details on the C3 situation re: avalanches. By my count: 167 members with 284 Sheras thus far, for a total of 451 summits.

Everest 2021: Summits on May 31 – Wave 5

Everest plume from space courtesy of NASA

A reported 16 people (6 members with 10 Sherpas) took a gamble and summited on Monday, May 31 at 7:00 am. They evaluated the risky avalanche conditions after feet on fresh snow and used their powerful Sherpa resources to break the trail for their clients to the top. Well done by all and congratulations on dodging the ball.

Everest 2021: Weekend Update plus Final Summit Bid

Everest plume from space courtesy of NASA

This was a tough week on Everest with Cyclone Yaas pummeling the Hill with heavy snow.  Most teams have wisely ended their season but one or two are still pulling their clients higher. Thankfully, the Cyclone appears to have moved on.