Nepal to Ban All Solo Climbers and those with Disabilities – a Political Move

Icefall Doctors training in 2016. Courtesy of Pemba Sherpa

I was hoping we could go into the Everest 2018 season without Nepal’s Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation announcing another plan to “make Everest safer” thru Byzantine rules that are not grounded in merit or even common sense. But alas they have once again met my low expectations. This time they are repeating […]

Helping Nepal: Himalayan Stove Project

Himalayan Stove Project

Like so many of my readers, George Basch made a trip to Nepal that changed his life forever. Today he is the “Chief Cook” of the non-profit Himalayan Stove Project. They provide clean cook stoves to thousands throughout Nepal and are truly changing lives. You can help by funding a stove for only $150 that will reduce […]

Himalayan Autumn Wrap-up

Nobukazu Kuriki's Everest Route

It was a wild ride for those climbing in the Himalayan this Autumn with valiant efforts on 8000ers, a few new routes and a tragedy on Ama Dablam. Never say never when claiming there are no more climbs but with winter approaching the attention will shift to K2 and perhaps an attempt on Everest and Nanga […]

Himalayan Autumn Updates

Autumn continues to be exciting in the climbing world with the 2017 Piolet d’Or awards, new routes on very remote and technical peaks plus valiant efforts on 8000er. First up are the 8000ers, and its not good news on any of them. Lhotse – Waiting but not hopeful South Korean, Sung-Taek Hong and Spanish climber Jorge […]

Autumn Climbing: Losing Legends, Summits in Nepal, Bribes on Carstensz

Carstensz Pyramid

Climbing continues around the word and especially in Nepal but before we get to the climbs, I want to remember two climbers we lost recently. Fred Beckey: “The Bob Dylan of Mountain Climbing: Fred was the definition of a dirt bagger – mostly living out of his car, he never married or had children – climbing […]

Everest and K2 in the Winter

Will there be a winter summit of Everest and finally on K2 this winter? This is always a question as we approach winter. And teams usually keep their plans quiet. The recent suspects include Alex Txikon on Everest and the Poles on K2. To claim a true winter ascent of a northern hemisphere peak, the summit […]

Autumn Himalayan Climbing: Surprise Summits!

Burke Khang

This week has shown never say never about climbing big mountains. When people say it’s over, it may be just starting. When people say it’s impossible, someone proves them wrong. Manaslu wound down this week with a few more summits, a first summit was accomplished in Nepal and a missed summit was corrected in Pakistan. […]

Autumn Himalayan Climbing: Lhotse Begins, Manaslu Summits, Burke Khang

Phurba Tashi Sherpa, Himex Sidar, fixing route to Manaslu summit in 2013

Lets start with the most exciting news out of the Autumn Himalayan climbing season, the attempt on Lhotse’s South Face. But also worthy of acknowledgment are the large number of summits on Manaslu and another attempt on the unclimbed Burke Khang. Lhotse – South Korean Returns South Korean, Sung-Taek Hong, 51, along with Spanish climber […]

Autumn Himalayan Climbing: Manaslu Summits, Dhaulagiri Over

Between Camp 3 and Camp 4 in 2017 by Seven Summits Treks

With a period of excellent weather on Manaslu, teams are making their summit pushes and over 150 have aready summited this week. However, deep snow on Dhaulagiri has ended the Autumn summit bids. Dhaulagiri – Over for the 78 year-old 78-year-old Spanish climber Carlos Soria Fontan on Dhaulagiri has ended his 8th attempt over nine years […]

Autumn Himalayan Climbing: Manaslu Summit Rush, Dhaulagiri Stalled

Manaslu 2013

After a few days of heavy, deep snow on Manaslu, the hordes are prepared to push hard this week. Look for huge crowds at all camps and competition on the narrow summit. Meanwhile rain at base camp and heavy snow above has stalled all efforts on Dhaulagiri. Dhaulagiri – Rain and Snow 78-year-old Spanish climber […]