Tag: Everest

Podcast Series: 7 Summits Episode 10–Everest with Adrian Ballinger & Mike Hamill Interview

Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I’ll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 10, Everest with special guests Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow and Mike Hamill, founder of Climbing the Seven Summits. #7summits

Mount Everest is the highest mountain in Asia and the world, at 29,031.69 feet or 8848.86 meters, making it the highest of the Seven Summits. With seemingly unlimited attraction, climbing Chomolungma has dramatically changed over the decades.

Stradling the border of China (Tibet) and Nepal, it grows by about 0.0063-0.021 inches or 0.16 to 0.53 millimeters annually due to the northward movement of the Indian tectonic plate and a “rebound” effect caused by merging rivers. Everest is so high that it juts into the jetstream, atmospheric winds that typically travel west to east at speeds ranging from 80 to 140 miles per hour but can accelerate up to 275 miles per hour.

Through January 2024, there have been 12,015 summits (5,907 members and 6,108 hired). In other words, more support climbers, primarily Sherpas, have summited than foreigners. Yet more foreigners, 200, have died on Everest than support climbers, 117.

It has become an economic powerhouse, attracting millions into the Nepal economy, an estimated 10% of GDP, through flights, hotels, taxis, restaurants, teahouses, yak herders and massive, dominating guiding enterprises. In 2024, 80% of the Everest summits were on Nepali-owned guide company teams, compared to 20% a decade earlier. However, with that dominance comes a downside: an all-time record 18 climbers died on Everest in 2022. Twenty-six people have died in the last two years climbing Everest; of that total, 23 were clients of Nepali operators. That’s 88% of the total for the two years.

In this last 7 Summits Podcast, I briefly overview the peak and then delve into several topics with guests Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow and Mike Hamill, founder of Climbing the Seven Summits.

All Episodes

Introduction
Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia – 7,310/2228m
Mt. Blanc, France/Italy – 15,771’/4807m
Vinson, Antarctica – 16,067/4897m
Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea – 16,023/4884m
Elbrus, Russia – 18,513/5642m
Kilimanjaro, Africa – 19,340/5896m
Denali, Alaska – 20,320/6194m
Aconcagua, Argentina – 22,902/6960m
Everest, Nepal/Tibet – 29,035/8850m

Remains thought to be Andrew ‘Sandy’ Irvine found on Everest

One of the most enduring mysteries of mountaineering, or perhaps in all sports, was the 1924 British expedition with George Mallory and Andrew Sandy Irvine. It’s most notable for whether they summited or not. If they did summit, that would precede Tenzing and Hilary by 29 years. Mallory’s body was found in 1999, but there was no proof that he died going up or coming down, thus the importance of finding the camera and potential photos of a summit.

Now we have more clues. This past Autumn 2024, a National Geographic team hoping to ski the Hornbein Couiler on the Tibet side of Everest had to abandon their project due to weather and timing. Instead, once they got home, they told the world that they discovered a leather hobnail boot containing what they thought was Sandy Irvine’s foot. An attached sock has a tag sewn onto it reading “A.C. Irvine.” They found it at the base of a glacier, where recent warm temperatures may have released its icy grip. They took a DNA sample for positive identification with the family’s permission.

Everest 2024 Podcast: Ryan Mitchell on his Everest Summit–”Life Changing”

Massachusetts native 19-year-old Ryan Mitchell summited Mt. Everest on May 23, 2024! This extensive podcast discusses his experience from training to the summit and back home.

Ryan, a Summit Coach client, contacted me about a year ago, wanting advice and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2022. He had little to no experience, so while I told him many companies would take his money and have him on Everest, the best approach would be to wait at least a year and gain the skills and experience it would take to make a safe attempt on the world’s highest peak. He agreed, and we’ve worked together for the past year.

In this podcast, Ryan explains how he funds his climbs, training approach, and “why.” We cover a lot of topics, including:

    1:22 – Was it hard? Was it fun?
    2:50 – How did you train to get the required experience?
    8:33 – What part of your training meant the most once on Everest?
   11:35 – You created a YouTube series documenting each day of the expedition.
   12:13 – What cameras did you use, and how did you keep the batteries warm?  
   18:50 – What other gear did well for you, like the down suit from Himali and your La Sportiva 8000-meter boots?
   20:11 – Discuss the trek from Lukla to Everest Base Camp
   21:32 – Did video logging distract you from the overall experience?
   23:12 –  Describe arriving at EBC and meeting the Sherpas for the first time.
   26:10 – How was climbing through the Icefall? 
   31:41 – How hot was the Western Cwm?
   33:00 – Did you ever get sick?
   34:45 – What were the climbing conditions on the Lhotse Face?
   40:10 – Did you experience severe crowding on Everest?
   41:42 – Describe the good and bad at the South Col.
   48:50 – Walk us through the Summit push.
   53:46 – Sunrise from Everest
   56:07 – How was the Hillary Step?
   59:10 – Seeing dead bodies
1:01:25 – What emotions did you feel on the summit?
1:06:36 – You had a fast climb back to C2. Why so fast?
1:09:30 – Were you happy when you finished your last trip through the icefall?
1:13:03 – How did it feel to arrive back home?
1:15:55 – What are one or two words or phrases describing your Everest journey?
1:17:30  – What’s next?
I know you will enjoy this.

#everest2024

#everest2024

Everest 2024: Season Summary – Everest at a Rubicon

Everest Alpineglow

Everest 2024 might be remembered for summits, politics, deaths, ignored rules, near misses and disturbing allegations of sexual misconduct. It’s difficult to put all this in a headline, but I believe the Everest guiding industry is at a Rubicon – a point of no return.

Not to be lost in this mix is the joy and satisfaction felt by hundreds of summiteers. They worked and trained diligently to celebrate standing on the top of the world for only a few minutes. It’s funny how you can work so long for a goal, and the moment is over in a blink, but the memory lasts a lifetime—well done to all who summited, to those who showed up.

Once again, the Sherpas proved they dominated the mountain with impressive altitude performance. The Himalayan Database shows that between 1950 and 2023, 6,097 Sherpas have summited Everest compared to 5,899 members, and that gap is growing each year. However, more foreigners have died than Sherpas, 197 compared to 118. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Last Summits of the Season and Another Death

The 2024 Everest season ended well for the Alpenglow group, but sadly, there was another death on the Nepal side. 2024 was a challenging year that may change the trajectory of climbing Everest, especially on the Nepal side. The Icefall Doctors are removing all the ladders in the Western Cwm and Khumbu Icefall, thus officially closing the season on that side. I’ll do my annual season summary in a few days. #everest2024

Everest 2024: More Summits and Deaths as Season Winds Down

South Col Route

Summits continue on Everest, but the season may end soon as cyclones build in the Bay of Bengal and the monsoon moves in. We saw thirty-five more summits and, sadly, yet another death on May 23rd. Only one team going for the summit tonight. #everest2024

Everest 2024: More Summits and More Missing Climbers

Summits continue, but multiple climbers are missing near the Hillary Step after some sort of route collapse. Through May 22, Everest has seen 379 summits, compromising 214 Sherpas, or 56% and 165 members or 43%.  The largest summit days so far were May 19, with 100 summits, and May 21, with 104 summits. Nepal issued Everest permits to 414 foreigners. Perhaps another 60 to 100 people may summit on May 23, and activity will quiet down quite a bit. #everest2024