Everest 2017: Climbing the North Side with Jon Gupta, an Interview
A lot of attention is given to the Nepal side of Everest. It has more people, the risks are promoted heavily by those guiding from the north and of course, it was the side that saw the first summit back in 1953. And the north side has it’s share of fans, some perhaps even rabid these days. But one small team this year is just a guide, his member and two Sherpas. This was the usual profile for years as the north side was less expensive, had a wild feel to it and, by many testimonials, is a harder climb than the south. With all this in mind, Jon Gupta from Brynrefail in Snowdonia, North Wales, is one of the many guides hoping to get their member to the top safely. Jon’s company, Mountain Expeditions, is leading his member who has already summited Everest from the south. In 2012, Mollie Hughes became one of the youngest Britons at 21, to summit Everest and now has her sights on the north. Read this interview to get to know Mollie. According to Montane, by the age of 28, Jon had summited numerous major peaks including: Island Peak 6189m (7 times), Denali 6196m, Ama Dablam (6 times), Korjenevskaya 7134m, Communism 7495m and Khan Tengri 7010m and Everest 8848m. In 2012 Jon became the first person to summit Ama Dablam 3 times in 7 days, all from basecamp, including the second fastest recorded solo speed ascent. So with this background, let’s meet this 30 year-old who now lives in Bristol (which I’ve visited a few times!) Q: When did you start climbing? I first tried climbing and camping in the mountains whilst in the Scouts aged around 12 – 15. I don’t remember falling in love with rock climbing specifically at that age but I do remember the adventures related to camping, climbing/abseiling, being in the mountains, reaching summits and the feeling of being free and away from school! Q: Do have a favorite between diving, skiing and climbing? It’s a tough one between skiing and climbing – but days which involve both are truly the best. Ski in, climb, ski out. It doesn’t get any better for me. I work a lot in the mountains, however I don’t work as a ski guide or ski instructor so if I’m skiing it’s always for fun. I’m very much a winter boy and chase the winter seasons around the world skiing, ice climbing and mountaineering. In recent years I have spent a lot more time rock climbing in the UK and in Europe which has been really nice. Q: Do you have a favorite UK climb? The UK has so much diverse rock climbing to choose from – so, on rock it will have to be a sea cliff…so something like Rock Idol (E1 5a) in Pembrokeshire. It is such a good climb in an amazing situation right above the sea. I am equally a big fan of the lesser travelled esoteric climbing which normally requires a long walk in and possibly an ice axe to get safely out of the top slopes! In winter, Scotland offers some of the best mixed and ice climbing in the world (when its good!) and is very character building climbing! Some of the big mountaineering routes are superb – such as Tower Ridge or Skye Ridge. I don’t have a favourite route as such but I would be happy walking into anything good and steep on the north face of Ben Nevis. Scottish mixed climbing is so so good! Q: How about a favorite alpine climb? When I was much younger a friend and I climbed a route called the Kuffner Arete (D, 4C) in the Mont Blanc Massif. It is a big long mountaineering route at a reasonable grade, but at the time was the biggest most committing alpine route I had climbed. We stayed in the tiny Forche bivi hut on a ridge which felt really remote and the views of the Italian side of Mont Blanc were staggering! We climbed the route on a perfect weather day, feeling like heros. Q: Jon, how did you find yourself in the Everest guiding business? I would not say I was in the Everest guiding business. As an UK based expedition leader and outdoor instructor, I relish variety in my work and am very fortunate that I get to travel a lot and climb all over the world, for work and pleasure. I would like to think I am open minded about most things, including the more commercial aspects of the mountains and Everest. I am sure I will be back again in the future, hopefully a few times, but I am not planning on advertising big commercial trips or desperately pulling in members to get back to Everest each year. As and when I have members that are ready and keen for the climb then I will return again. Q: You support Brain Tumor Support, would you tell us why you choose that charity? This trip isn’t linked to any charities from my side, however my member is raising money for Cancer Research UK as part of her climb this year. Over the past few years my company has run many challenges and events for Charities in the UK. The challenges help raise thousands of pounds for the charities in question. Brain Tumor Support are a local charity to where I grew up and we ran a number of events together back in 2013 and 2014. Q: You recently did a BBC documentary, India: Nature’s Wonderland, what was the overall message to the audience from that special? Yes! This was something a little different for me, but I enjoyed it and the programme was a huge success. The overall message from the documentary was an insight into one of the most culturally and environmentally diverse countries in the world. I personally covered topics directly linked to the Himalayas and the knock on importance of the mountains, glaciers and rivers to India and its ecosystem. I