Podcast Series: 7 Summits Episode 9–Aconcagua with Garrett Madison & Ed Vesturs Interview
Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I’ll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 9, Acocangua with special guests Garret Madison and Ed Viesturs.
Next week, I wrap up this series with an Everest episode and special guests Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow and Mike Hammill, founder of Climbing the Seven Summits. #7summits
Aconcagua is the highest peak in South America, at 22,902/6960m. It is an excellent warmup before climbing Everest, testing your fitness at altitude and thoroughly testing your gear in harsh conditions. It’s a cold peak and an excellent cultural experience.
Garrett Madison & Ed Vesturs Interview
I managed to nab these two legends to discuss Aconcagua and other mountaineering topics.
Ed guided Ryan, my 19-year-old Summit Coach client, who summited Everest in style this year, up Aconcagua as he prepared for his climb. Obviously, Ed is a wealth of mountaineering knowledge, so we discussed Acocangua, common climbing mistakes, and, of course, Everest, as well as finding Sandy Irvine’s foot in his boot this year.
Garrett is well known as the founder and owner of Madison Mountaineering. He will be on Everest for his hopefully 15th summit, tying Dave Hahn for the second-most summits by a non-Sherpaa. Kenton Cool has the title at 18. Garrett also recently summited Carystensz after a five-year break when the government closed the peak due to violence in the area. He gives us a quick update on that.
Episodes will drop each week:
September 15: Introduction
September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia – 7,310/2228m
September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy – 15,771’/4807m
October 6: Vinson, Antarctica – 16,067/4897m
October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea – 16,023/4884m
October 20: Elbrus, Russia – 18,513/5642m
October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa – 19,340/5896m
November 3: Denali, Alaska – 20,320/6194m
November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina – 22,902/6960m
November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet – 29,035/8850m
Aconcagua Update: Homeward Bound?
Wow, what a long strange journey … since the summit! As I write this, I just cleared security and customs at the Buenos Aires Ezeiza International Airport after standing in place for over 5 hours. And I mean not moving. It seems that the problem was that 50 people missed their flight the previous day and staged a sit-down to protest. For some reason they were able to completely shut the airport down. My fellow passengers and I stood in mile long lines waiting for a peaceful conclusion to this drama. The local Argentines apologized on behalf of their country – a sincere gesture. But once the squatters were removed it was the proverbial crowd surge that took place as the doors were opened. I was genuinely worried about the small children in the 3,000+ person crowd. I was able to go with the flow and soon made it through armed security who some how did not move the squatters. Clearly, I don’t get it. OK, in any event I hope to catch my flight in a hour or so which would be around 1:00AM. Ugggg The trek from BC was equal eventful. We had Moses-style windstorms that literally covered us with the small, tiny, microscopic grit that dirt can be famous for. As I have said before about Aconcagua – I have dirt where dirt should not be… We made to the last camp only to be informed that our “mule was lost” who was carrying our tents! OK, perhaps a bad joke since the mules showed up an hour later after we relaxed in the dirt for an hour – after an 8 hour trek from 14,000′. Actually it was fine since we were enjoying the “thick air” of the lower altitude. Spirits were high given we had 7 of 8 summit with two (Dave and Rudy) doing the Polish Direct route. Only Dave E. did not make it but he did reach almost 5300m – a great accomplishment for the 64 year-old. I was thrilled to make the summit given the cold and harsh conditions. It was excellent training for Everest – just what I had in mind. We had one member get frostbite on his big toe plus a finger. Pat was helicoptered out with a HAPE victim from another team. Pat will be fine according to Doctors in Mendoza. But it is a lesson to all that even a simple “walk-up” can be threatening to life or limb. I will post more images next week but for now, please enjoy the shadow of Aconcagua at sunrise I think I hear the call for my plane .. or maybe it is the crowd outside!! Remember – Memories are Everything Climb On! This is Alan
Aconcagua Audio Dispatch: Summit Report
Alan describes the team’s summit success in extreme high winds and brutally cold temperatures. To hear this Aconcagua 2008 audio dispatch, no just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following me on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Climb On! Alan Click to listen: [audio:http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/audio/aconcagua2008_summitsuccess.mp3|titles=Aconcagua Summit Audio Dispatch|artists=Alan Arnette]
Alan summits Aconcagua
Alan reports that the team made the summit (22, 841′) this morning at 11:45 a.m. local time where it is currently very cold and windy. His sat phone battery is low so he will be unable to leave an audio dispatch at this time. Congratulations to the team on a successful summit! Remember…Memories are Everything
Aconcagua Audio Dispatch: At Camp 2 – Summit Ready
Alan describes the team’s preparation for the summit push from to Camp 2 later tonight. To hear this Aconcagua 2008 audio dispatch, just click on the play button.Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Climb On! Alan
Aconcagua Audio Dispatch: Big Winds Coming!
Alan describes the team’s carry to Camp 2 and some serious weather forecasts that will impact their summit plans. To hear this Aconcagua 2008 audio dispatch, hospital just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following me on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Climb On! Alan
Aconcagua Audio Dispatch: Camp 1 Established
Alan describes the carry to Camp 1 and how the team is doing. To hear this Aconcagua 2008 audio dispatch, just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following me on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Climb On! Alan
Aconcagua Audio Dispatch: Arrived at Base Camp
The team is at Base Camp after a 3 day trek through the Vacas Valley. To hear this Aconcagua 2008 audio dispatch, look just click on the play button. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Climb On! Alan
Mendoza
Aconcagua – The Stone Sentinel
The snow was blowing sideways as the temperature flirted with 10 F. The drifts were small but the ground was covered with a lite blanket of white. I stepped gingerly outside my protection to find it icy and dangerous. With that I scurried back into the garage and into the car for the drive to the airport. No I was not on the mountain but at home. As I navigated the slick roads of Colorado, capsule I was concerned about making my flight but I was more worried about her driving back home in the worsening conditions. But everything turned out fine and I am on my way to Argentina. I am at stop 1 of 3 on my way to Mendoza. Cerro Aconcagua, ed 22, there 834′ (6,959 meters) is the highest mountain outside the Himalayas and obviously in both the Western and Southern Hemispheres. Its name probably came from the Inca word “Ackon Cahuak” which means “Stone Sentinel.” Aconcagua does not lie in the actual Andes, but in the heart of the Chilean-Argentine Central Andes, at a latitude of 32 degrees 40 minutes South. Aconcagua was first climbed in 1897, up the Northwest side of the mountain by Swiss mountain guide Matthias Zurbriggen. This route is now the most popular way to climb the mountain, and is known as the “Ruta Normal” or Normal Route. Most routes are not technical in nature but the extreme altitude, severe winds, and cold temperatures are the primary issues. I will not be on the normal route but on the Polish Traverse. In 1934, this route was established by a Polish team who approached the mountain up the Vacas and Relinchos Valleys to Plaza Argentina, and summitted via what is, known today as the Polish Glacier. The Traverse follows this approach but joins with the normal route to the summit. About 4,500 climbers attempt the summit each year. The success rate is only about 30% mostly because climbers underestimate the climb and conditions given it is ‘only’ 23,000! Our team will meet in Mendoza, a Napa Valley styled city with vineyards and winery’s all around. Next we will take a mini-bus to Penetentes – basically a ski resort at 8,500′- but remember it is summer down here so there is no skiing. After a rest day we will begin the trek to the 13,800′ Base Camp via the Vacas Valley. There are three camps in the Valley and we will get our first view of Aconcagua from the third camp. I saw Aconcagua from here the first time in 2005 and was shocked at how big it was! Next we climb to the 13,800 camp and take a rest day. Over the next four to six days we establish three more camps with the high camp being the launch point for the summit bid. The summit bid is an 18 hour day – again not technical but can be dangerous with altitude, wind and harsh temperatures. So, I will be gone on New Year’s day – not Christmas or a Birthday or Anniversary but still gone on a holiday. Three weeks away from home. And we all know this is more than just climbing a Hill. I am excited about this climb for that reason – the training and fitness and bonding with Ryan for the Everest climb. I will be posting mostly audio dispatches since data is difficult and expensive with Iridium. But I will be taking high quality pictures with my Canon G7 and will post them plus some videos when I get home. Everest will be the normal full dispatches. Pictures from my 2005 climb can be found here. Thanks as always for your support and positive energy. Climb On! This is Alan