Island Peak 2018: A Push to the Top and the End
My throat was so tight, I couldn’t swallow. My chest felt like it was exploding from the inside out. And with every step I took higher, the pain level increased. So, why in the world would I take another step towards the summit of Imja Tse aka Island Peak this Saturday in October 2018? The Long Goodbye One of the worst days of my life was in 2006 when I stood in my parent’s bedroom with my mom, Ida, standing in front of me. “Mom lets get a few things so you can spend the night.” She looked up at me through her strong, yet failing 79-year-old eyes. “I don’t want to leave my house.” She said clearly but softly in her southern drawl. Jim, her husband of 58 years was in a nursing home a few miles away rehabbing from a stay in the hospital. His 88-year-old body fighting hard to continue to live. While in the hospital, their primary care physician had delivered a two-punch blow to me: First, Dad was terminally ill with congestive heart failure and kidney disease and second that mom had Alzheimer’s and “There is nothing you can do about it.” He threw out over his shoulder as he briskly walked away. With that, my mind began to process his words, the looks on my parent’s faces and what the future might hold. Climbing with a Purpose The next few years were a whirlwind with trips to Memphis, managing mom’s finances, paying bills and, most importantly helping Ida feel safe and loved. Then in August 2009 Alzheimer’s finally killed Ida That day I made a vow that she would not become another nameless statistic on the Alzheimer’s kill list. My mountain climbing began late in life, at age 38, with a jaunt up Mont Blanc with a French guide who spoke about as much English as I did French. But we summited and I fell in love with the sport of mountaineering. There was something about the sound of crampons crunching in the snowpack, being roped-up to a fellow climber, mutually dependent on each other to do the right thing. The wind turning my cheeks red, squinting as the morning sun cast new shadows across the hills. Yes, I can easily romanticize about the sport I love. But only a few days ago, I was questioning my judgment on Island Peak in Nepal. The climb of Island was more than just another mountaineering quest for me, it was packed with multiple objectives and a quiet goal that would determine my climbing future. Life’s Setbacks On February 10, 2017, I was training with my regular partner, Jim Davidson, in Colorado for the 8000-meter peak Dhaulagiri in Nepal. We were on a simple 11,000-foot peak, Twin Sisters, outside of Estes Park. The winds were gusting strongly, but manageable until we crossed tree line. A sudden gust sent me cartwheeling into a rock field. Upon landing, I felt an excruciating pain in my lower right leg. I had broken my tibia and fibula in three places plus crushed my nasal cavity as I crashed into the unmoving rocks. After multiple surgeries and a year of progress, I was uncertain of my mountaineering future. The injury left me with a lack of confidence, a significant setback to my physical fitness and an uncertainty if I would ever be comfortable at altitude again. I knew I wasn’t ready to try to get back on the horse with an 8000er, but perhaps something smaller, more manageable would be wise, thus Island Peak at 20,320-feet. Also, I had been asked by friends to investigate a potential dental clinic at the Kunde Hospital in a Himalayan village outside of Namche Bazaar. I was also tasked to look in a few Sherpa families using stoves donated by the Himalayan Stove Project. Multiple Objectives So with a lot on my mind, I left Denver for Kathmandu on October 2, 2018. The flight was long as usual with my routing going through Singapore, making for a 30-hour trip. I arrived at Nepal’s Tribhuvan airport around 9:00 pm. As I stepped off the stairs from the airplane, a small smile emerged on my face. I felt the warm air with the high humidity and said to myself, “It feels good to be back. I quickly found my bags and a taxi to the Hotel Tibet where I have stayed for years. The next day I was scheduled to go up with Kami Sherpa, my long-time friend whom we summited Everest, K2 plus two attempts on Lhotse. When the opportunity emerged to go to Nepal, I contacted Kami through his son Mingma if he was available to do some trekking and climb Island Peak with me. For me, it was more about keeping our relationship fresh and alive than needing a guide on a trek I’ve done seven times before. He said he wasn’t working anywhere else and was happy to go with me, thus the plan was set. Unfortunately, a few days before I arrived in Nepal Kami had come down with gout so he stayed in Kathmandu a couple of days to recover and receive treatment. I flew to Lukla on Saturday, October 6 to meet up with Mingma, Kami son. We made the trek to Namche and visited the Kunde hospital verifying the need for a dental clinic. Walking the well-worn dirt trails brought back so many memories of my previous visits. The Trek that will Change your Life Kami caught up with me two days later and we continued our trek. Similar to my first visit in 1997, we went by way of Goyko and the Cho La pass rather than the traditional Everest Base Camp trail. As we visited the tiny and uncrowded villages of Dole and Machhermo, the scenery was stunning. I would highly recommend it for anyone looking to trek in the Khumbu but wanting to avoid the crowds. We made a day hike to the top of Goyko
Island Peak: Summit and $25,000++ for Alzheimer’s!
What a short journey this has been!! Kami and I summited Island Peak around 10 am on October 21, 2018 but what I will remember more is that YOU donated over $25,000 to the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. I often say that you never know which donation will fund the breakthrough that solves this conundrum. The Crowdrise site is now at $16,275 BEFORE the $10,000 match from Jim and Carol Beers thus taking the overall donations to $26,275 exceeding the stretch goal of $25K. If I never climb again, this is the way to go out. Speaking of climbing, I will do a complete report soon but all I can say is that Imja Tse exceeded my expectations. There was more rock, more “glacier” and more “headwall” than I anticipated. Diane already hinted at my respiratory issues and yes, once again, my lungs said no to anything above 18,000-feet. For those interested, I’ll go into detail later but suffice it to say, this summit was a real “push”. What drove me? Again, more later after I’ve had some time to process but I’ve learned in these situations to ask myself three questions: Is this hard or impossible? Am I hurt or just hurting? There are a 1,000 reason to turn back and only 1 to keep going. What is the one? As I stood stationary, crampons dug into the snow on the headwall, I went into an out of body experience pondering these three questions. Needless to say, I took another step higher; Kami just behind. I had written in a previous blog that I had unanswered questions after my Twin Sisters event last year, as well as Lhotse in 2015. Thanks to the miracle of satellite phones, I “phoned a friend”, and my wife, Diane, at key moments to seek advice and support. Without Jim, Di and of course Kami, I would not have summited. – full stop. Without getting too introspective, my life has provided me with many lessons through great and sometimes, not so great experiences. I will get to the “so-what” in the final trip report, however I drew upon these life lessons on Island Peak. Let me end this here and add a few pictures of the summit push. Again, thank you so so much for supporting research to prevent, slow, stop or reverse Alzheimer’s. After all creating and remembering our life’s experiences is what it is all about. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything Can we break $30,000??? Please consider a donation to wrap-up this October 2018 event. For those in the US, your donation is tax deductible as it goes directly to the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund.
Island Peak 2018:Time to Climb
Well time has come to stop posting and to start climbing! First I wish all a happy Dashain. Kami and I leave Tomorrow 19 Oct for Island Peak. The summit is on the ridge far behind the face as shown in the pictures. Today we did our final acclimatization hike to Chungkung Ri, about 17,700’ more or less. We were rewarded with clear, sharp views of Cho Oyu, Pumori, Nuptse, Lhotse, Peak 38, Island Peak, Makalu and of course, Ama Dablam. they were stunning. The weather forecast hasn’t changed a lot so we are expecting sub 0F wind chills and will be prepared for worse. If it’s too bad, we will simply turn back. It’s really that simple. The Plan The schedule is to hike to base camp after breakfast Friday. Take the afternoon to relax and go to bed early. We will leave BC around 1 or 2 am crossing a long rocky area until we reach Crampon Point, where we, umm well, we out on our crampons! Crossing the glacier in the dark, and coldest time of the climb will be mentally challenging. Finally we’ll reach the base of the 2,000’ head wall. This snow and ice covered hillside ranges from 10 to 45 degrees and has a fixed line for safety. I expect that we will not be alone! At the top of the head wall is the summit ridge which can be narrow in places and steep in others. At the end is the tippy top aka the summit around 20,320’. I’m looking forward to all of this climb but especially the head wall and summit ridge. The trip back retraces our steps. We are planning to return to Chungkung that same day. I won’t have any cell or WiFi access but will have my satellite phone and will keep Diane update who will then update Facebook if you are interested in following. As always I’ll do a complete report once it’s all over. I plan on documenting the climb in detail with pictures and video. Finally, you know what this is all about and I’m grateful for all your support thus far. Moving On? You know I was thinking about meeting a fellow climber years ago in Colorado. She had lost her mother to Alzheimer’s a few years earlier. Her words still echo in my mind today. “Yeah, I used to believe they would find a cure. I donated, advocated, did the walks, attended the rallies. But you know what? They will never solve this one. It’s too hard. Too much unknown. I miss my mom but I moved on.” We walked quietly for a while until I said “I understand but I guess I’m not ready to move on until we find a cure.” She simply said “Good for you. Don’t give up like I have but I’m tired.” Strength from Believing That was in 2009, the year Ida died. I’ve also gotten tired from time to time but then researchers find something significant. More funding becomes available from governments worldwide, I read another story of a family who went bankrupt caring for a loved one, a husband who refuses to put his wife into an institution, an Alzheimer’s patient who suddenly opens her eyes and begins to sing along to her favorite church song. Holding Ida’s hands as she struggled to name any of her nine siblings in a family picture, including herself. This is when the energy grows. We simply cannot give up. Not today, tomorrow not anytime. I am more confident that researchers will find a way to prevent, slow, stop or reverse Alzheimer’s Disease and the related dementias plus other neurological disorders from Down Syndrome to ALS to others in my lifetime. At this point we don’t need more ideas, we need to fund the best ones with the best people. And your donations during this Island Peak 2018 climb has helped tremendously. As I leave for the summit, I can only squeak out a simple thank you. Your support for this cause keeps me climbing. A cure will be found. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything Please consider a donation at https://www.crowdrise.com/o/en/campaign/alan-arnette-climbing-the-world-to-end-alzheimers Island Peak with summit ridge in back. Route is on the right
Island Peak 2018: 3 Degrees of Separation with Kami Sherpa
Traveling with Kami Sherpa in the Khumbu is like being with Kevin Bacon except it’s not Six Degrees of Separation it’s more like three! For the past 11 days everywhere we go Kami says “oh, that’s my ____” fill in the blank with cousin, uncle, sister, friend … This guy is a rock star!!!!! Seriously, it’s great to spend this time with him. After his serious injury on K2 in 2015, I wondered if he would ever climb again. Seeing him in full stride is inspiring. Free Spirit Kami doesn’t work for any specific company but is kind of a freelancer. If you are ever interested in hiring him as your “Personal Sherpa” let me know. He often works with the major guide services for specific clients. He is old school. He caters to his clients’ every need. He sometimes gives too much attention but over the years, I learned this is what makes him tick. We have summited Everest, K2 and had two attempts on Lhotse. This is our fifth time together. As for climbing skills, he has summited 5 of the 14 8000ers including 16 summits of Everest (he has climb from both sides) and of course K2. He has been on 5 other 8000ers with no summits. Overall he has around 33 8000er Summits. A Better Life for his Children Kami is around 55 years old (he’s not really sure!) He and his wife Lhapka Dikki have five children. Their oldest son, Penzo Dorge is an Everest guide working for IMG. Their second son, Chhiring yeshi is a monk at the Tengboche Monstary. Mingma, their third son graduated with an Electrical Engineering degree and works for a Nepal hydro-electric plant near Namche. Dawa, their oldest daughter is about to be an intern for a large hotel chain in China after getting her degree in Hospitality Management. And youngest daughter, Karma, who turned 17 earlier this month, is studying to be a Doctor. Kami and Lhapka Dikki have lived in Pangboche forever. Kami’s mother lived with then until she passed last year at age 89. Kami’s full name is Ang Chhiring Sherpa – Pangboche. You always mention their village since the Sherpa culture used to name their children after the day of the week they were born, but this is changing. Nyima- Sunday Dawa – Monday Mingma – Tuesday Lhakpa – Wednesday Phurba – Thursday Pasang – Friday Pemba – Saturday His mother changed his name from Ang Chhiring to Kami Chhiring after he had a serious infant illness. By changing his name, she believed the illness would not return because it would not know how to find him. Today most people call him just Kami. Kami’s father was an Everest guide, something he speaks of with great pride. Kami had seen many deaths on the mountains, including Everest and relatives, and is pleased most of his children are pursuing other careers. A Great Schedule As he said the other day in the video, Island Peak will be easy for him, after all he lives an hour away in Pangboche at 13,000- feet/3,962- meters. We have taken possibly the most leisurely acclimatization schedule ever. When we arrive at base camp on Friday, October 19, we will have spent 12 days trekking including three hikes to 17500- feet/5300-meters. And this is exactly what I wanted, no hard schedule, total flexibility to change routes and a pace that encouraged reflection, relaxation and growing my relationship with Kami and Nepal. Thank you Kami Sherpa. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Island Peak 2018: Alan, Do you have Alzheimer’s?
As Kami and I arrived in Dingboche this morning, we were treated with a perfect view of Imja Tse aka Island Peak, only seven miles away. I stopped in my tracks to study our objective. Even though I have seen this view many times before, my eye had always focused on the 8000er Lhotse looming high above the “lesser” peaks to her east. This time is different. Our plan is to leave base camp in the single digit hours of early Saturday, October 20. We hope to summit perhaps 5 to 7 hours later, perhaps longer depending on many variables. Our plan is to return for the night to base camp and then down valley the next few days. Oh my, what a journey this has been. And I’m not talking about this climb. Why? Many of you who have been following me and reading my writings over the years will recognize the line “Now, who are you again?” That was the day Ida, my mom, didn’t recognize me. That was the day my life changed forever. Later that same week we were out to lunch and when the bill came, Ida pulled her wallet out of her purse, opened it up, fumbled with the paper bills and finally just shoved everything at me. She had no idea who I was in that moment, only that I was a nice man who had lunch with her and true to form, she was going pay her own way. Oh my. As I walk the Khumbu this October, I’m giving myself permission to remember in detail those days almost 12 years ago. I remember the moments when she was lost. I remember the moments we laughed so hard together that we both cried. I remember holding her frail hands and talking about Jim, her husband, Ken’s and my father. I remember that twinkle in her eye, revealing a zest for life that was there until the end. I remember. Family Ties My wife, Diane, lost her cousin Ursula to Alzheimer’s. She writes to her family on the Crowdrise site, “Ursula, my cousin – your sister, mother, aunt & friend died from the disease after several years of mental decline, pain and confusion. This was a grievous loss and felt deeply. To honor her memory I am requesting that family & friends join together to contribute through the crowdrise link as “Team Ursula”. This is a meaningful opportunity to reconnect with extended family for a very personal, impactful purpose; Together we honor the past and now together we pay it forward –” And my step-son Cory has Down Syndrome. Alzheimer’s disease and Down syndrome share a genetic connection, leading to the increased risk of dementia at an earlier age. Understandably, many families and caregivers are especially worried about this possibility. Getting accurate information and education about the risk of Alzheimer’s disease is an important way of empowering oneself to prepare for the future. Do I have Alzheimer’s? I’m often asked the question if I have been tested for the gene often associated with Alzheimer’s Disease (AD). After all I’m a perfect candidate. Alzheimer’s disease is in my direct blood line: my mom, Ida and four of her blood sisters have died from the disease. The short answer is no, I have not been tested. I have registered with the Banner Health Institute for joining a potential clinic trail but I’m not in one as of now. So, Alan, Do you have Alzheimer’s? I don’t know. With the disclaimer that I’m not a doctor, researcher and that these are my own personal views and understandings of AD, I can share my thoughts on my own personal situation. At this point, I’ve chosen not to be tested for multiple copies of the ApoE4 gene or do a cognitive test to determine my status or risk. These tests are difficult to interpret. One of the more reliable ways of testing is to do a spinal tap, or a PET scan. However, at age 62, the die is cast given today’s state of Alzheimer’s understanding. In other words, if I have AD, I have it and that is it. As of today, I’m not symptomatic but that’s not usual. One of the learnings since Ida’s diagnosis in 2006 is that the beta-amyloid plaques and tau protein build-up – both hallmarks of AD – begin their deadly life decades before a person shows any symptoms. By the time I found Ida lost at a Christmas buffet in 2003, it was too late for her. The Future of Others One of the reasons I’m so passionate about finding a cure for Alzheimer’s is not only what I saw Ida and my aunts experience, as well as the millions more across the globe, but that our children deserve a full life into their golden years complete with their live’s memories. Yes, we will all die of something, that is life. And given life spans are increasing, dying from some form of dementia is increasing at an alarming rate. I want my kids and grand kids to experience a full life. Also the toll on caregivers is often underestimated as they become the silent victims of this disease. Living Life With the declaration that I have not been tested, I not trying to gain any emotions one way or the other. I am making conscious choices about my life. At this point, there are many choices I can make with respect to AD. First, I can live a healthy life. As the saying goes, a healthy heart equals a healthy brain. I exercise, I am active and I pursue my passion of mountain climbing with all that I am. We know the more oxygen that gets to the brain the better, so having a healthy cardio vascular system is one way to accomplish that goal. Huffing and puffing at 20,000-feet guarantees I’m pushing the system to its limits! However, one might argue that I could find a better sport than high-altitude climbing!! Second, I
Island Peak 2018: Crossing the Cho La
Today was a big step on our way to Island Peak. We crossed the 17,782-foot/5,420-meter pass, the Cho La. We made the crossing from west to east from the village of Dzongla at 4,830-metres/15,850-feet to Thagnak at 4,700-metres/15,400-feet. We had hiked from Goyko the previous day. Kami and I were awakened by another group in the teahouse at 3:00am who apparently thought they were alone. While I’m not sure what they were saying, similar to the Lukla dog barking competition, everyone was involved and it seemed to be a competition between loud talking and loud walking. I’m pretty sure there was a Seinfeld episode about this. In any event, we got out of our sleeping bags at 4 and were walking in the dark at 5. The path is well worn as the Cho La is a classic trek in the Khumbu. Many people use this as part of the Three Passes trek (Kongma La, Cho La and the Renjo La) when they visit Everest Base Camp. As a result there were lots of people on the route, but not as many as coming up from the other side. Ballet on the Rocks It starts on a 30 degree rocky hillside easing around 17,000-feet. Then it drops into a massive valley marked with glacial lakes and streams. It is a beautiful setting, something out of Lord of the Rings. Once into the valley proper, the trail meanders along until reaching the other side, perhaps a mile, or less, in total distance. Then the real work begins. The route is extremely rocky, filled with boulders. It reminded me a lot of the boulder field on Longs Peak. At times you hop from chair size boulder to another trying to not miss your spot or sprain an ankle. In my case, I had a bit of anxiety but thankfully there was zero wind and the temps were hovering around freezing. This Ballet on the Rocks continued for another hour steadily gaining elevation. At times the “trail” completely disappeared and we just boulder hopped. While I was pleased with my speed, it felt slow, but I was happy to reach the prayer-flagged covered summit with no injuries. That said, we made it in 3:15 minutes, quite a bit faster than what Kami had predicted. We took our first break on the Pass enjoying the views looking back and looking ahead. There were probably 30 people up there. At 17,782-feet, I felt the thin air. We left the Pass and stepped on snow for the first time, but only for about 15 minutes on the glacier. The route descending quickly along the glacier edge and onto a flat plain with an easy trail to Dzongla. By the way, all the teahouses were filled at Dzongla. Its busy in the Khumbu! Next up: Imja Tse So a good day but I also know that we will be another 2,000-feet higher in a few days. So with two hikes above 17,500-feet, I’m feeling really good about our Island Peak climb. By the way, Island Peak’s proper name is Imja Tse. In 1953 Eric Shipton named it Island Peak because it appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. The Nepal government changed the name to Imja Tse. The climbing conditions on Imja Tse are reported to be good, albeit cold when windy. There is a four ladder crevasse crossing and the 1,000-foot headwall is strong and proud serving as the gateway to the summit ridge. We are still targeting the 19 or 20th. As I wrote yesterday, I’m fond of goals. Today was a good day. It felt good to be in the high mountains, surrounded by snow-covered peaks and imposing rock walls. I struggled for breath from time to time but that just reminded me of where I was and why I was there. I can feel my “high-altitude cell memories” coming back online. Even though occasionally, this is hard, this is exactly what I wanted. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything Cure Alzheimer’s Fund Raising update and INCENTIVE There were multiple donations over the past two days – thank you!!!! We are close but not quite to the $10,000 goal that when added to the matching $10,000 will get us near the $20,000. We need $2,450 to reach $20K and $7,540 to each the stretch goal of $25. As an incentive (I think 🙂 ), for any donation over $500, I’ll call you once I’m down from Island and when I get home, send you a print of any photo I have posted, signed if you like. If you have already made a $500+ donation, I’ll contact you. >I have many more pictures but the Internet is too slow to load them before I run out of power so here are few from today.
Island Peak 2018: Reaching a Milestone
Setting and striving to achieve hard goals is central to my life. I’ve found that when I lack a goal, I feel like I’m drifting with no destination in sight. Thus today was a milestone in a series of goals I set almost two years ago. When that 100 mph wind gust sent me spinning into a rock field breaking my face and leg I knew my life would never be the same. However, I almost immediately began setting goals as to my progress, both short and long term. But, I didn’t know what I didn’t know and that unknown became the fuel to keep me pushing. Familiar Goals I wanted to summit a 14,000-foot peak in Colorado in 2017, specifically Longs Peak. I had over 40 summits and a streak of almost 10 years on my “home” climb. But everytime I tried, my body, or mind, said no. So the streak ended in 2017, and thoughts began to form if my days at 14,000-feet and above were over. After more “progress” with the help of the miracle worker Nina Paterson with her unique form of physical therapy, I slowly began to go higher in 2018. Climbing with good friends became medicine for my mind. In August I climbed the simple, but poignant peak Mt.Ida cutting my time in half from 2017. I felt my mom’s presence that day. With a strong group of friends, we were turned back on Longs on my birthday in July when the weather turned bad. But summiting Longs was important to me so I went back, alone, and summited on September 18, only two weeks before I left for Nepal to climb the 20,000-foot Island Peak. High and Higher I always say “altitude is exponential”. In other words there is a huge difference between 10K to 12K and 18K to 20K and so on. I strongly believe in muscle memory and that my body has been “trained” to adapt to high altitude but after taking a year off, gaining a bit of weight, crossing the age 62 mark and not knowing what I didn’t know … well lets just say, while confident, I left Colorado with a series of open questions. The trek thus far has been amazing. I know I always talk about what a great experience trekking or climbing in Nepal is, so I won’t go on and on, but seriously, it is really …. OK 🙂 Perhaps it was the anxiety that triggered some long term memories but my mind kept going back to 1997 and my first visit to Nepal for a trek to Everest Base Camp (it really did change my life!) Whoops, sorry about that. So today, October 13, 2018, Kami and I made our way higher along the less traveled Goyko Route. The scenery was stunning but I was a bit pre-occupied knowing that once we arrived in Goyko, at elevation 4790-meters/15,715-feet, we were going to hike up Goyko Ri for acclimatization purposes in anticipation of Island next week. Goyko Ri tops out at 5,357-meters/17,575-feet – a bit higher than Longs. Confirmation We left at noon. In Colorado, I set a goal of hiking at 1,000 to 1,500-feet an hour at altitudes above 12,000-feet. Knowing we has 2,000-feet above 15,000-feet, I set my expectations for a 3 hour hike to the top. Kami set the pace. The dirt path was well worn steadily climbing at a 10 to 20 degree angle.The views became more and more rewarding as we gained altitude. I got into my mental state of “go all day at this pace” and let my mind wander. I paused to take in the moment. Deep down, a strong sense of peace came over me. I felt my pace pick up a bit. 16,000 then 16,400 lead to breaking 17,000. I glanced at my altimeter watch a couple of times then pulled my coat sleeve over the measuring device. I knew where I was. Prayer flags adorned the summit of Goyko Ri. Kami and I were joined by Maggie and Pete, a UK couple whom we had befriended a couple of nights ago. They are abut my age and are back to Nepal to trek. They said they were changed after their last trip to Nepal in 2002. 🙂 Validation I scrambled to the highest rock, standing with the pride of a Pirate as I looked over the bounty. And I knew this was not a game but rather a passion. We had made the top in 1.5 hours – half what I had planned. I asked my body and essence to take me back higher, and they responded. As I stood on the summit, the most extraordinary view unfolded. Cho Oyu to my left, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse straight ahead, and Makalu to my right. Four of the fourteen 8000-meter peaks towering above the smaller peaks. All seemed within my grasp. Without thought, my mind returned to my Cho Oyu climb in 1999 where I reached 8000-meters but fell short of the true summit. My eye traced the routes on Everest pausing at the summit. I closed my eyes reliving that moment in 2011. I studied Lhotse carefully, feeling this peak may remain out of my grasp after two attempts in 2014 and 2015. And Makalu, what a beautiful mountain pyramid. I can only dream. So yes, goals drive life. Without goals there is no sense of accomplishment and achievement – for me. I will continue to set goals, some small, others huge. This Alzheimer’s goal of $25,000 is what I’m talking about. I will do my best to reach each bar I set. If I succeed, I will smile and set another, and I if I don’t, I will smile and set another. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything Goyko with Cho Oyu behind Thanks to all who donated thus far for Alzheimer’s research. We are at $7,350 of the $10,000 goal. Aiming for $25,000 including the matching $10,000 grant so we
Island Peak 2018: On our Way
At some point in every trip, you feel like you have moved from planning to doing. Well that’s exactly how I felt today as Kami and I left Namche for the Goyko Lakes. Once again, the morning skies were crystal clear with a bite in the air signaling that winter would be here soon. We set a leisurely pace knowing it would take abut 6 hours to reach our first destination, Dole. I did this route in 1997 but honestly don’t reminder a lot of the details. As we left the main trail that leads out people to Everest Base Camp, we saw fewer and fewer people. The views, however were just as stunning and in fact, I think the view of Ama Dablam was even better! I already have 5,923 picture of this amazing peak so I added a few hundred for good measure!! 🙂 We walked slowly taking in the views and chatting about everything, anything and nothing. We stoped for lunch and of course, Kami had Dal Bhat. The trial climbed steadily through the day. We are now at 4410-meters or 13,484-feet leaving Namche at 3440-meters or 11,286 meaning we gained 970-meters or3.182 feet; not a bad day’s work. Along the way we stopped at the memorial for Alex Lowe who died in an avalanche on Shishapangma in 1999. It is a simple rock alter overlooking Porter the home of the Kumbu Climbing Center, created in Alex’s honor to train Sherpas on climbing. So, the views are inspiring, trail is smooth, the skies clear, our feet are light and spirits are soaring. It doesn’t get much better than this. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Island Peak 2018: Pictures Say it All
I spent the day visiting a few of my favorite places around Namche Bazaar. A few photos from the day. Thanks to all who donated yesterday. We are at $4,925 of the $10,000 goal. Aiming for $25,000 including the matching grant. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Island Peak 2018: Different and the Same in the Khumbu
As I trekked up Namache Hill, my mind drifted to 1997 and the first time I walked these trails. I was awe struck by the stunning natural beauty of the steep hillsides covered with such green vegetation. The roar of the Dudh Kosi river kept me company as I walked, struggling to catch my breath. What a memory. I say today what I said when came home 21 years ago – “If you ever get a chance to trek in Nepal, do it. It will change your life.” The clouds cleared enough on Saturday morning for a fleet of helicopters and planes to empty the backlog of climbers and trekkers stuck in Kathmandu. The airport at Lukla was busy starting at 6 am and then well into the afternoon. I made it on a helicopter, making a last minute change from a fixed winged thinking it would be more reliable. In any event, I made it along with my bags (eventually) and started the trek from Lukla to Namche Bazaar with Kami’s son Mingma. Kami will join me Tuesday after taking a few more days rest in Kathmandu to recover from a bought of gout. The walk was as I remembered. This was my seventh time. Some people are taking helicopters from Kat to Namche these days, but I think the trade-off of two days is well worth it for the beauty of the trails and the joyful happiness of the villages. Mingma and I walked easily and gently along the well-trodden trails. Each step brought a new view, each corner a new reward. The air was soft and moist with the remnants of the monsoon season. It was warm. I was wearing a short sleeve shirt and long pants but could have been in a t-shirt and shorts! We stopped for lunch in Phakding, I had pizza and Mingma had mo mo’s. It began to sprinkle on us as we left for higher ground and the village of Monjo at the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park, the home of Mount Everest. The trail was not as full as I thought it would be for early October which is historically the largest month for trekking in Nepal. The Everest region can host well over 10,000 visitors that month alone. But those who were here seemed to stumble with glee as they struggled to multitask between avoiding rocks and missing a spectacular view. We pulled into Monjo just as the skies open with a refreshing rain storm that last about half an hour. My, how times have changed. Every teahouse has electricity, wifi and very good food and beds. Most have duvets with a soft pillow so a sleeping bag is not needed. However, the staff are the same – warm with genuine smiles and an attitude of hospitality. We had dinner and talked about Mingma’s job as an Electrical Engineer at a nearby power plant. Kami and Lhapka Dikki are so proud of him as they are of their other four children. One of Mingma’s classmates from Kathmandu joined us. He is studying Environmental Science with a speciality in air pollution. We had a great conversation about how tourism is impacting the Khumbu, recycling, hydro-electric power generation, politics and the future. My heart is filled with optimism as I spoke with these two young men. I went to bed on my trekking schedule – 8 pm! I need 12 hours or I’m toast the next day! 😛 Today we made our way into the Park paying the 3,200 rupee entrance fee, $27.09 – a bargain! The trail once again had its ups and downs but more up than down as we had gained 580-meters or 1,902-feet from Lukla – albeit with some serious undulations so you can easily add another 1,000-feet! I’m staying at a lodge run by the son of Kancha Sherpa. I love the lodge name – Home Nirvana. At age 86, today he is the only living member of the 1953 British Everest Expedition that, of course, was the first to make the summit. I hope to talk to him. I asked his daughter-in-law if he was available and she said “Oh, he loves to talk!” Arriving in Namche triggered some very nice memories. I will spend three nights here and visit the Khunde Hospital to talk to them about establishing a dental clinic. Cure Alzheimer’s Fund – 100% for Research and $ for$ Donation Match!!! Please remember that this is not only about me getting back on the climbing horse after breaking my leg last year but also to honor Ida, my four aunts and the millions across the globe impacted by Alzheimer’s. As I previously noted, I’m very excited to announce that through the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund Jim and Carol Beers will match every donation from my followers during this expedition up to $10,000, and perhaps even more. You can make a donation at our Crowd Rise fundraising site and also form a team to see who can help us reach the goal of $20,000 (I would love to see $25k!) Thanks so far for donating $4,520. We are almost halfway to the $10,000 and with the matching $10,000 we will approach $20,000. While there is still three weeks left, please don’t wait!!! Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything