Climbing Roundup
As we near the end of 2022, high-altitude climbing continues. We have activities in South America, Nepal, and Antarctica. The final summit numbers are in from the Himalayan Database for Everest. It was a record year for the number of Sherpas supporting clients.
Vinson Massif
Antarctica 16,067′,4897 meters Summited December 9, 2010 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s 600 miles from the South Pole, Mount Vinson was first summited in 1966 by climbers led by Nicholas Clinch from the American Alpine Club and the National Science Foundation. It was the last of the 7 Summits to be summited. It was named after US Senator and Antarctica supporter Carl Vinson. It is in the Ellsworth Mountains Range. Just getting there is an adventure. The flight previously was a four-hour, 20,000-mile trip on a Russian Ilyushin 76 cargo plane, but today (2025) is a sleek 757 outfitted with Business Class seating throughout the plane. The flight is from the tip of South America to the snow camp of Union Glacier Hills. Once there, climbers are ferried via a Twin Otter to base camp. Climbs usually take place between December and February. The climb is usually scheduled for about three weeks, with the summit in the middle of the climb. However, once there, the weather can be the worst on the planet, often stopping teams in their tracks for weeks. Like Denali, climbers carry all their gear plus a share of the group gear – no porters in Antarctica! The climb is a series of long snow slopes not requiring significant technical skills or gear; however, it is harsh with the weather and loads over 70 lbs split between a pack and a sled. Once you summit, if you summit, you might be stuck for more weeks waiting for the jet to return! About 1200 people have summited Vinson since 1966. There have been no deaths. A popular option after a summit is to fly to the 89-degree and ski the final 70 miles to the South Pole. The second highest mountain in Antarctica is Mount Tyree at 15,919’/4852m and is 7 miles north of Vinson. Only seven climbers have made it to the top of Tyree! It is significantly more complicated with its steep faces. One of the most famous climbs in mountaineering took place in January 1989 when the legendary American alpinist Terry ‘Mugs’ Stump, an American climbing legend, soloed the west face without a rope in a roundtrip time of 12 hours – a fantastic feat that still stands out 20 years later. Vinson Resources: 2010 Summit Climb Climb Report Vinson Dispatches Vinson FAQ 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s In late 2010, I launched the 7 Summits for Alzheimer’s campaign, where I wanted to climb all seven (eight) of the Seven Summits in one year. The first summit was Vinson in Antarctica on December 9th, 2010. This was the last summit on October 25, 2011. I had made every summit except Denali, which was stopped by weather, 3100′ short of the summit. I have been able to send our Alzheimer’s message of hope, need and urgency from each continent, reaching over 12 million people and raising money for research, awareness and caregivers. In 2025, I will continue to dedicate my climbing and public presence to honoring my mom, Ida, and raising research funds for Alzheimer’s nonprofits. Please consider a donation today.
Vinson Trip Report
Antarctica 16,067′,4897 meters Summited December 9, 2010 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s Pristine and perfect—Antarctica. I am unsure how else to describe my experience climbing her highest peak, Mt. Vinson. As this was the first of my 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s, where I am raising awareness and money for research, it was critical to have a good start. And it was. I left the US just before Thanksgiving 2010 to meet Phil Ershler, co-owner of International Mountain Guides, and the rest of our team. The uneventful 30-hour journey followed the South American coastline, with a few plane changes along the way. There was a sense of excitement as we landed in one of the most remote cities in the world, Punta Arenas, Chile. I met two team members at the airport and shared a taxi to the hotel, where I met the rest. Excellent first impressions created confidence that this would be a good trip. The Preliminaries First on the agenda was a briefing with Antarctica Logistics and Expeditions, ALE. The room held about 50 people with various objectives—visit the South Pole, ski the last degree, visit an Emperor Penguin colony or climb mountains. Our common bond was a love of adventure and a sense of appreciation for being able to visit the “Last Place on Earth.” The two-hour briefing covered many details but honed in on our responsibilities to protect Antarctica. We left the meeting with a heightened awareness and anticipation of when the big Russian jet would depart. And that may be the common theme of all polar adventures. You see, it takes a specialized aircraft, unique flying skills, uncanny weather forecasting capability and agreeable weather just to start the journey. Thus, we were told to be prepared to leave our hotel on a two-hour notice, fully dressed in our -40F clothing. Every expedition is full of rumors, usually of a death on the mountain, an unexpected summit push or some petty politics. But we had none of that. One topic dominated our conversation from start to finish – wheels up time. Today or tomorrow? I just heard the winds are too high, or a front is moving in. What if we can’t get out for another week – and on and on? The keyword is patience. Polar travel is a case study of human traits we seek, and few achieve. However, everything aligned, and we learned that the Russian jet would depart Punta at 5:00 PM on November 27th. Flying to Antarctica That Russian jet – what a piece of machinery. Specifically, it is an IIyushin IL-76. Designed by the Soviets in 1967, it was built to service the remote areas of the old USSR. Today, it is used around the world for heavy lifting. With four massive engines, a back-loading ramp that trucks can drive onto and sparse interior furnishings, it carries everything from machinery to other planes to water for firefighting – and sometimes Antarctic mountain climbers. ALE leases the IL, as it is nicked named, from November through January to service their Base Camp named Union Glacier. They and previous companies have flown various specialized aircraft to Antarctica since 1983 using the prior base of Patriot Hills. However, weather delays caused them to search for a more stable area like the new Union Glacier site. In reality, all these locations are simply GPS coordinates on the ice. The key feature is a long strip of natural solid blue ice, void of cracks, holes or crevasses, enabling the big IL to land and take off reliably. So it was that we left Punta approximately on time for the 4:05 flight to Union. The flight was an exercise in organized chaos as 50 adventurers, dressed in full down, boarded the jet and took our seats three abreast, violating one another’s personal space with clunky boots and puffy down jackets. But given that the inside of the IL was marginally heated, no one complained. And we were going to Antarctica! The in-flight service consisted of receiving a cotton wad to plug our ears due to the lack of insulation inside the IL from the engine noise. Once in flight, we were served a piece of cheese between two slices of white bread and a cookie. I felt like I was in a scene from The Hunt for Red October as the Russian crew looked on. As midnight approached the sparse crew prepared us for landing with a quick walk through checking seat belts, yes there were seat belts! The only windows were attached to the emergency exit doors, so I had no sense of how close we were to the ground until I craned my neck to see the tip of a high mountain – snow-covered. My heart jumped. A solid thud marked our arrival, along with the even louder noise of all four engines in reverse thruster mode – no brakes on the ice. We coasted to a stop on the 3-mile runway. As soon as the doors opened, we knew we had arrived. Walking like penguins, we waddled our way to the door, down the metal stairs and onto the ice. My first step on the Antarctic continent was a moment, a memory, forever stored. The air was crisp. The sky was a turquoise blue. The sun hovered just above the surrounding mountain peaks of the Heritage Range of the Ellsworth Mountains. It was midnight. Union Glacier Met by the Union Glacier Base Camp team, we rode in a wooden sled loaded with food bags, portable walls, mattresses and backpacks pulled by a snow-cat on treads. It was a chilly introduction as we made the 5 miles to Union Glacier base camp proper. Since this was the first entire season after moving from Patriot Hills, the staff was still establishing Camp, but we were ushered into a long, narrow WeatherPort structure complete with solid floor, table, and chairs but no heat. A buffet of lasagna and bread was offered and received. Of
Vinson FAQ
Antarctica 16,067′,4897 meters Summited December 9, 2010 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s About Vinson Q: Where is Vinson A: 600 miles from the South Pole, Mount Vinson was first summited in 1966 by climbers led by Nicholas Clinch from the American Alpine Club and the National Science Foundation. It was the last of the 7 Summits to be summited. It was named after US Senator and Antarctica supporter Carl Vinson. It is in the Sentinel range of the Ellsworth Mountains. Just getting there is an adventure. The flight previously was a four-hour, 20,000-mile trip on a Russian Ilyushin 76 cargo plane, but today (2025) is a sleek 757 outfitted with Business Class seating throughout the plane starting from the tip of South America to the snow camp of Union Glacier. Once there, climbers are ferried another 35 minutes via a Twin Otter to Vinson base camp Q: When is it usually climbed? A: Climbs usually take place between December and February. – the 24 hours of sunlight a day in summer in Antarctica. Q: I understand that Vinson is easy. A: It is straightforward, with mostly glacier travel, but the climbing is not Vinson’s challenge; it is the weather and the logistics of getting in and out of Antarctica. Q: How does Vinson compare with Denali or Rainier? A: It is easier than Denali since it is shorter—if the weather is not brutal. We sat in our tents at Low Camp for six days, waiting for 50 mph winds to ease on the summit ridge. Like Denali, you pull a sled with personal and group gear, but the loads are lighter. Even though the summit is about 16,000′, the effective altitude is about 2,000′ higher. Q: Is a Vinson climb dangerous? A: Absolutely. While there have been no deaths on Vinson, which is remarkable, there are cases of severe frostbite. The primary issue is that in case of a life-threatening emergency, it could take days or weeks to get you back to a hospital, given the severe weather conditions. Q: How many people had summited, and how many people had died trying? A: An estimated 1,200 climbers have summited Vinson at an extremely high success rate. There have been no deaths. Training, Gear & Communication: Q: How did you train for this climb? A: I usually climb my local Colorado 14ers, plus daily workouts with weights and on an elliptical machine. Q: Was altitude a problem on this climb? A: It’s not a big issue, given that it is 16,000′. However, the barometric pressure is quite low at both Poles, so the available oxygen per breath is lower than at the given altitude compared to other big mountains. Thus, from a cardiovascular perspective, it felt like it was 18,000′. Q: What kind of equipment did you use? A: Mostly, I use the same gear I used on Everest—lots of layers. My technical equipment included a long-handle ice axe, harness, carabineers and crampons. Protecting my toes, fingers and face is critical since they are most susceptible to frostbite. As for warmth, I always wear a knit cap and at least liner gloves when I get the least bit cool – regardless of the outside temp. I use a three-layer system of Merino wool base layer (top and bottom), heavier fleece as in a Farmer’s John kind of suit or just my Gortex Pants, depending on how cold it is that day, then my top wind or warmth layer e.g. Patagonia Micro Puff and/or JetStream Shell. When the winds pick up, and the temps hover at -30F, I add an 850 Fill Down jacket plus my mitts, which I never used on Vinson. Q: Is anything special in your gear for Vinson? A: I took almost all my extreme weather gear except the full-down suit. It can be extremely cold and windy, so multiple down layers are required. My boots were the Kayland 8001, an integrated gator boot with a separate inner boot similar to the Millets or Olympus Mons. Some people climbed in double plastics with overboots. I was never cold. I was pleased when I used a new sleeping bag from Mountain Hardwear, the Wrath -20—I also used the ExPed Down mat 9 on top of a Z-pad. I was warm and comfortable. Q: Did you use a satellite phone? A: I used an Iridium phone with good results to post updates to this website. Expedition Basics Q: Which route is most prevalent? A: There is only one primary route from the west side, which follows the Branscomb Glacier and has two intermediate camps. In 2001, a team climbed via the East Face. In late 2008, one team climbed to the Shinn Col via the Dater/Hinckley glaciers before joining the regular route. Q: How long will it take? A: A Vinson climb can be incredibly short. With zero weather delays, you can arrive at Union Glacier, fly to Vinson Base Camp, climb to Low Camp, then High Camp and summit, plus return in about a week. But this seldom occurs. Count on three weeks with weather delays. Q: How much does a standard climb cost with and without a guide? A: For 2025, the costs are around $55,000. The cost is so high due to the logistics of getting to Antarctica. Once you are there, you can see why. Q: Do I need a permit to climb? A: There are no permits, but you must use Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions(ALE) to fly to Antarctica since they are the only ones allowed to fly there. Q: Do I need a guide for Vinson? A: ALE requires a guide to climb unless they approve you as an exception with proper experience and a team of 3 or more—don’t count on it. They can provide a guide, or any other guide company will provide one. In my opinion, you must bring a two-way radio and a satellite phone and have the frequency or number of the local rescue resources already programmed in. Q:
Vinson Trip Report, Videos and Pictures
After our successful summit of Vinson on December 9, 2010 it has been quite busy. We took the big Ilyushin back to Punta and then most of the team caught flights out of Punta Arenas to homes across the world within 12 hours of landing. I arrived back in Colorado on Tuesday, December 14th. I am always amazed at how quick I get home. It was a 21 day total trip. First, I want to thank everyone who made a donation to the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund and especially to those who completed their pledge of a penny a foot. Remember that every donation helps and is sincerely appreciated. I am thrilled with how the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything campaign has started. While making the summit was the goal, I am very pleased with the following we have and confident it will build throughout 2011. Please tell your friends and family what we are doing. Also remember you can subscribe to receive email notifications everyone a new dispatch is posted from a climb. Use the form on the right side of this page. You can unsubscribe at any time and your email will never be used for any other purpose. I have competed my normal follow-up for these expeditions. You can read all these on my main site through these links. Vinson Trip Report : a narrative of the compete climb with videos and pictures Vinson Photo Gallery: Over 100 pictures with descriptive captions of the entire expedition. Use the slideshow feature for easy viewing Vinson FAQ: some Frequently Asked Questions about climbing Mt. Vinson OK, 1 of 7 completed! Next up is the highest in South America, Aconcagua. This is a familiar climb for me with summits in 2001 and 2008. I am climbing with International Mountain Guides and this expedition will be lead by Peter Anderson. The biggest issue with Aconcagua is usually high winds and of course, altitude. It is the highest peak outside the Himalaya at 22,840′. As always, I want to acknowledge the support of The Alzheimer’s Immunotherapy Program (AIP) of Janssen Alzheimer Immunotherapy and Pfizer. Without you guys this would not be happening – all to raise research funds to improve ment and find a cure for Alzheimer’s. Finally, let me hear from you. Send me an email, post a comment or follow me on Facebook or Twitter. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Update from Punta Arenas after Vinson
Hi Everyone, just a quick update. We finally left Antarctica around midnight last night December 13th and arrived in Punta in the wee hours. We are currently enjoying chairs, s tables and cooked eggs at the hotel! While we only waited a few days, it felt longer with the anticipation of getting on our way back home. But, I had mixed emotions as I left knowing what a special place Antarctica is and how fortunate I was to be a guest on the continent. The winds kept blowing both at Union Glacier and Punta Arenas creating delay after delay but a window appeared that allowed our entire team to take the huge jet off the ice. It was amazing watching it land in Antarctica. The wind was blowing over 30 m.p.h. as we made the last few steps across the ice to board the plane. It actually blew so hard and the ice was so solid, you could simply stand firm and let it blow you along! OK, time to get the next flight and back home to Colorado. I will write a complete trip report over the next week and post it along with my pictures and videos. It was wonderful a trip with Phil Ershler of IMG and all my teammates! Also thanks to the Alzheimer’s Immunotherapy Program of Janssen Alzheimer Immunotherapy and Pfizer Inc for their support and the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund for all their dedication to finding a cure. Aconcagua is next in mid January!! Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Summit Success and More Patience Required
It has been a world wind the last few days. After spending 8 nights at Low Camp, we successfully summited Mt. Vinson 16,160’/4892m at 5:40 PM on December 9, 2010.
Today, we await the Ilyusion to fly from Punta Arenas to Union Glacier to ferry us off t…
Summit: Audio Dispatch from Mt. Vinson
I summited Vinson on December 9, 2010. It was a great climb. Read the full trip report for all the details. This is the audio dispatch I posted live from the summit; the 1st of my 7 Summits climbs. Click to listen: [audio:http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/audio/Vinson 2010_Summit Call.mp3|titles=Vinson Summit Audio Dispatch|artists=Alan Arnette] These climbs are to raise Alzheimer’s awareness and $1M for research. I lost my mom and two aunts to Alzheimer’s. Please join me to end Alzheimer’s by making a donation today. Read the details. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Vinson Summit Push Starts
Just a quick dispatch to say we will start our Mt. Vinson summit climb mid morning December 9, 2010.
It should take about 12 hours round trip with the summit in the afternoon – asumming all goes well.
We made the climb to High Camp today and eveyone…
Another Day in Antarctica
Well the big wind event came and went but did not have the immediate impact that we had hoped.
Today, Tuesday December 7, is somewhat clear but the winds are still blowing on Vinson’s summit plus at High Camp. We can hear the low roar of the winds rip…