Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics – Part 4
Well the Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything has come to an end. Thanks to your generosity, salve about $25, s 000 was donated to the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund – well short of my $100, 000 goal. When I started this journey in January 2007, I set two goals: raise money and awareness for Alzheimer’s research and return to Everest. Now that it is over, I am pleased on both counts but hoped for more donations. There is still time. Just click on this link to make your donation online. It was an incredible year. I never in my wildest dreams thought I would take on such a huge challenge of climbing five big mountains and doing fund raising at such a level. I was not alone and special thanks go to Katie Cutler of the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund. Progress continues to be made on Alzheimer’s and in fact this week some exciting news was announced. But for many it is too late. My Mom is doing as well as can be expected. She remembers me and my brother but none of the details of our lives or her’s for that fact. I am shocked by how many people have been impacted by this horrible disease. I hope you never come in contact with it. Again, thanks to all who donated. Especially to the students at East High School in Kentucky, Webber Jr. High, Bolz Jr. High in Colorado and Stratford in California – you guys rock!! Now for the last part of Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics This is the last of a four part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest’s South Side in the spring of 2008. Part 1 looked at the rumors and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and during the trek to Base Camp. Part 2 detailed the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at Camp 1. Part 3 covered our climb to Camp 2 and 3 plus what a Nepal Army sniper was doing at Camp 2 on Everest!! Part 4 is a personal account of my summit night on Everest Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics Part 4: Summit Night note: the PDF document contains all the sections. Climb On! Alan
Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics – Part 3
This is the third of a four part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest’s South Side in the spring of 2008. Part 1 looked at the rumors and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and during the trek to Base Camp. Part 2 details the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at Camp 1. Part 3 covers our climb to Camp 2 and 3 plus what a Nepal Army sniper was doing at Camp 2 on Everest!! Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics Part 3: Sniper at Camp 3 note: the PDF document contains all the sections. Climb On! Alan
Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics – Part 2
This is the second of a multi part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest’s South Side in the spring of 2008. Part 1 looked at the rumors and confusion surrounding Everest as we planned our climb and during the trek to Base Camp. Part 2 details the surprise of new rules and regulations established by the Nepalese on all Everest climbers plus the protest at Camp 1. Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics Part 2: Volunteer Prisioners at Base Camp note: the PDF document contains all the sections. Climb On! Alan
Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics – Part 1
This is the first of a multi part series on Everest 2008. It represents my views and experiences of Everest’s South Side in the spring of 2008. Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics Part 1: Rumors of Demise Climb On! Alan
Everest 2008 Recap Comming Soon.
I am back home and doing well. I will post a complete recap of the entire Everest 2008 experience on this site soon. Thanks for everyone’s incredible support. You will receive an email notification if you signed up when it is ready. Climb On! Alan
Audio Dispatch: Alan Headed Home
To hear this Everest audio dispatch, just click on the link. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Everest 2008 Wrap-Up Climb On! Alan
Summit Update
Unfortunately, Alan has had to turn around at the Balcony. He was extremely tired and decided to return to Camp 4. He is obviously very disappointed and wants everyone to know that he gave it his shot. When I spoke to him he was safely back in camp. Alan wishes to thank everyone for their support and good wishes.
Audio Dispatch from South Col/Camp 4
To hear this Everest audio dispatch, just click on the link. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Click to hear the South Col Audio Dispatch Climb On! Alan
Audio Dispatch from Camp 3
To hear this Everest audio dispatch, view just click on the link. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Everest 2008 from camp 3 on the Lhotse Face Climb On! Alan
Summit Bid Plans
After a year of planning, working and dreaming, I leave for the summit of Mt. Everest on Saturday, May 17. Before I go into the details, I want to acknowledge what a gift this past year has been and how fortunate I feel to be in this position. , co-owner of and our guide, has set out this plan for our team: 17th – climb to C2, 18th – rest at C2, 19th – climb to C3, 20th – climb to C4/South Col starting to use supplemental oxygen at a low flow. We will spend the afternoon of the 20th resting, re-hydrating and eating before leaving for the summit around 9:00 PM that night. If all goes well we will stand on top of the world as a team around 7:00 AM May 21st. That’s the plan. I feel great about it but, as many of you know, I have been here before. However this time feels totally different. First, believe it or not, spending most of April in BC may have been a good thing for me. We have climbed through the Icefall only 4 times at this point. Each climb took us higher and I feel my body has adjusted better to this less aggressive schedule. As a reference some teams have gone through the Icefall 7 or more time already. Second, while at BC we have had excellent rest and outstanding food. At this point in previous expeditions I would have lost 20 – 25lbs. This year I am down a very reasonable 10. I feel strong, not weak. Another factor is mental. With four high altitude climbs under my belt in the last year, I am more confident than ever. Also Ryan has successfully walked the line between pushing and pulling as a leader. For example, no arbitrary climb times to camps and he stays with the team during the cimbs. This feels more like a team than any expedition I have been on. OK, now for potential complications. First, there are a lot of people up here. And in spite of multiple sources, everyone sees basically the same weather forecast. Ours come from Seattle based Michael Fagin. I know him and have found his magic to be accrurate. So the 21st it is for us. But so it is for other teams as well. There are several large teams that can dominate the mountain: IMG, Summit Climb, the Indian Army. These are 40+ climber teams. The rest of the teams range from 5 to 12. My hope is that the little guys like us can get up and down before the big ones take over. But still I expect to see 100+ climbers on the 21st. Ryan reports that a small team of Sherpas will fix lines from the South Col to the South Summit before the first summit bid. And that there will be up and down lines at the Hillary Step to manage the crowds. Rumors of a ladder at the famous step is unfounded. As usual there are many things that can change over the next several days but it is looking good at this point. Yesterday we paired up with our personal Sherpas. My partner is Lama Babu Sherpa, who has summited 4 times and speaks good English. I have gotten to know him over the past seven weeks so this is another confidence booster. Today we reviewed our plan as a team including oxygen, gear, times, etc. We even touched on the sensitive subject of rescues – us or somebody else. As for future dispatches, I hope to send a quick update from each camp including the South Col. And, of course, the summit. But it can get crazy at times so please be . That’s all for now. Thanks to everyone who has been in this journey with me thus far. We are near the end. You know this is about more than climbing – you are the – all of you. Remember Memories are Everything. Climb On! Alan