Bolivia 2019: Poor Weather in Bolivia, But Got a Summit!
As we left Copacabanna for the trailhead for our attempt of Pequeño Alpamayo, or Little Alpamayo Condoriri Group in La Coordillera Blanca, I was a bit apprehensive. I had felt good on our acclimatization hikes but we were now going over 17,000 feet and then on to almost 20 and then over 21,000. The drive along the Bolivian roads was peaceful. The scenery calming and soon I was enjoying the ride. At some random kilometer marker, the driver of our small bus turned left onto a dirt road. The skyline of the Condoriri Group stood tall, covered in white snow as this is winter in Bolivia. We drove for an hour stopping at a nondescript house built out of mud and straw. A family was standing there to meet us along with our logistics contact from La Paz. We unloaded the bus as we took in the views. That evening we took an acclimatization hike to over 14,000′ and said hello to a group of Llamas and alpaca! Stunning to say the least. The next morning we walked about 1:30 to the “end of the road” From there we took a small trail that meandered ever higher towards base camp and more awesome views. The Coordillera Blanca unfolded before our eyes with each step. We jumped over streams while careful not to twist an ankle on the loose and slippery rocks. Quickly after arriving at base camp, the tents went up as well as the cooking tent with our two wonderful Bolivian cooks. The food thus far has been excellent. We spent the next day hiking to 17,400′ on a nearby peak but the weather gave a hint of what was to come. Loud thunder and crisp lightening lit up the sky just as we reached the summit requiring a fast but orderly retreat lower. At one point we took cover in a shallow ravine hoping the storm would pass. That night it returned with a vengeance along with heavy graupel then deep snow. Overall, a foot of fresh powder. Great if you are skiing but not so good for glacier climbing. With growing concern over avalanche danger we discussed various options and selected to attempt Tirija at 17,500 feet and not go for Pequeno Alpamayo, our original objective. This was a straight forward decision as you have to summit Tarija to get to Pequeno. We left roped up into small subgroups around 4:17 am on Sunday, July 21, 2019. We made good time to Crampon point at the base of the glacier then steady progressed higher. The snow was fresh and ankle to shin deep at times. We climbed through the dark approaching 17,000 feet just about sunrise. The last scramble to the true summit of Tirija as fun. The slope was steep around 40 degrees and the top was a rocky outcropping. And the views simply amazing. We spent about 15 minutes up there and then returned to base camp arriving around 11:30 to pack up and hike back out to catch the bus and return to La Paz. More pictures from the summit. Next Peak Our next peak is Huayna Potosi at 6,088 m (19,974 ft). We are a bit on edge as the weather calls for over 20 inches of new snow over the nest 24 hour. We have delayed our departure from La Paz by one day to let the storm pass. The current plan is to drive to the trailhead early Wednesday, July 24, 2019 then hike the 2-3 hours to the High Camp (hut) and leave early Thursday morning for the summit return to La Paz the same day. After that is Illimani on Monday. I’ll report by social media as I can but a full blog post when I’m back. Support Alan’s 63rd Birthday with a Donation to Alzheimer’s Research CLICK HERE TO DONATE Alan’s 63 Birthday – Alzheimer’s Research I am asking that for my 63rd birthday this Saturday, July 27th, 2019 that a donation in any amount that is meaningful to you be made to the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund using this Crowdrise site. 100% of your donations goes to research, none ever to me. Read more about why this cause is so important at this link and how Alzheimer’s took Ida Arnette’s life. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Bolivia 2019: Acclimatizing in Bolivia
We are well into our Bolivian climbs and I want to announce a change for the Alzheimer’s fundraising. Thus far I’m very impressed with the mountains of Bolivia. Our Mountain Madness team of eight with two guides spent the first week in Bolivia touring the city of La Paz before moving to the lakeside city of Copacabana on Lake Titicaca. We took hikes up to 13,200’/4023m for acclimatization and took in some extraordinary views of the area. On the way out of La Paz we had a nice view of Illimani at 21,122 ft / 6,438 m the highest mountain in Bolivia’s Cordillera Real east of La Paz.We hope to summit it on July 29, 2019. Copacabana on Lake Titicaca Lake Titicaca borders Bolivia and Peru. It’s acknowledged as the world’s highest, largest lake and often called the “highest navigable lake” It sits at 3,812 m (12,507 ft). There is a tremendous amount history associated with the lake pre-dating the Incas. According to Wikipedia, in 2000, a team of international archaeologists found the ruins of an underwater temple, thought to be between 1,000 and 1,500 years old, perhaps built by the Tiwanaku people. The ruins have been measured to be 200 by 50 m (660 by 160 ft). Copacabana We had a local cultural guide, Rosa Maria, who was a wealth of knowledge and talked in detail about the Tiwanaku people, their traditions today and the impact of the lake on Bolivian and Peruvian culture. Copacabana is a popular tourist destination with families boating and swimming on the beaches. By the way, the lake trout was amazing, more like salmon! The first night, to continue our acclimatization, we took a short hike to the top of Cerro Calvario Hill, 13,215′ to watch the sun set. This is a sacred hill with the summit lined with small monuments representing the 14 Stations of the Cross. Pilgrims visit the Stations for prayer and penance and many tourists climb the hill for its fine views. Isla del Sol We spent two nights at Copacabana, hiking, including an acclimatization hike to 13,300’ on the Isla del Sol that started and ended with an hour boat ride from Copacabana to the island. Once again, the sights were impressive as we walked about six miles that day. Next was the drive to the trailhead for our attempt of Pequeño Alpamayo, or Little Alpamayo Condoriri Group in La Coordillera Blanca. I’ll cover that experience in the next post. Support Alan’s 63rd Birthday with a Donation to Alzheimer’s Research CLICK HERE TO DONATE I was hoping a new idea might bring new opportunities for Alzheimer’s fundraising but there has not been any individual, group or company contact me to on my offer to speak at any event in any mainland US city as long as the organizers would guarantee a minimum of $5,000 will be donated directly to a research-oriented Alzheimer’s non-profit. It’s not too late Click this link to add your “bid” and the highest bid over $5,000 will win! But there is always the traditional method! Alan’s 63 Birthday – Alzheimer’s Research Instead of the event, I am asking that for my 63rd birthday this Saturday, July 27th, 2019 that a donation in any amount that is meaningful to you be made to the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund using this Crowdrise site. 100% of your donations goes to research, none ever to me. Read more about why this cause is so important at this link and how Alzheimer’s took Ida Arnette’s life. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Bolivia 2019: Fun in La Paz
Our climbing of three peaks in Bolivia is underway. I arrived early, as in 1:30 am Thursday morning, to El Alto at the world’s highest commercial airport at 13,175’/4061m and was promptly met by the Mountain Madness team and liaison. We made our way to our great hotel in La Paz where I’ve been adjusting to the altitude of 11,607’/3550m for the last couple for days. Today, Sunday, July 14 along with Mountain Madness guides Gaspar Navarrete, and Paul Guerra we took a walking tour of the city including the market and the Witches Market where you can buy all things dealing with spells including potions, dried frogs, medicinal plants like retama and armadillos used in Bolivian rituals. The most stricking, and disturbing in my opinion, are the dried llama fetuses. They are taken when llama is killed for food and was unknown to be pregnant. The fetuses are buried under the foundations of many Bolivian houses as a sacred offering to the goddess Pachamama. Something a bit less dramatic was the market. Similar to most market around the world like in Ecuador, Moshi or Namache Bazzar, it is a feast for the eye with all sorts of native fruit, vegetables, clothing, hand-woven accessories and more. Of course, its often the people that make the experience. Here are a few scenes from today. Click to enter the slideshow. One of the mountains we will be climbing is Illimani at 6,438 m – 21,122 ft which is constantly overlooking La Paz Bolivia with its famous gondolas. Another cultural experience we had was a visit to the “Teatro del Charango” where multiple acts entertained the audience with their talent, humor and creativity. They play every Saturday night. The charango is a small Andean stringed instrument of the lute family, which probably originated in the Quechua and Aymara populations in post-Colombian times. It was traditionally made with the shell from the back of an armadillo but now is made of wood. I picked one up in the market and tried to play with zero success! This is short example from the show: The First Climb: Pequeno Alpamayo Standing at 17,749 ft / 5,410 m, Pequeño Alpamayo, or Little Alpamayo is located at the Condoriri Group in La Coordillera Blanca in Bolivia. It is a pyramid of snow, with the standard route being about 55 degrees, snow, nice in the morning, but sticky later in the day. It was first climbed in August 1962 by South Africans Irene and Keith Whitelock. We will take the West Ridge route. We are hopping to summit on Friday, July 19, 2019. Then we are back in La Paz for a day then off to the next peak, Huayna Potisi. Alzheimer’s Fundraising Opportunity Please don’t forget the new fundraising concept for this time. For this Bolivian expedition, I want am offering to speak at any event in any mainland US City as long as the organizers (individual, group, organization, company, etc.) will guarantee that a minimum of $5,000 will be donated directly to a research-oriented Alzheimer’s non-profit. I am coving all of my own expenses. Click this link to add your “Event Bid” and the highest over $5,000 will win! I’ll update the bids on my blog throughout July and announce the winner on August 1, 2019. Of course, as always, direct donations in any amount are appreciated. Read more about why this cause is so important at this link and how Alzheimer’s took Ida Arnette’s life. You can read more about my professional speaking at this link Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Bolivia 2019: Climbing Bolivian Peaks for Alzheimer’s
I’m very excited to announce my plans to climb in Bolivia in July 2019 and an Alzheimer’s fund raising event opportunity. I’ve climbed in South America six times: three on Argentina’s Aconcagua at 22,834-feet/6,960 meters and once on Peru’s Alpamayo at 19,511-feet/5,947 meters. In January of this year, 2019, I went to Ecuador for Cayambe at 18,997 feet/5,790 meters, Cotopaxi at 19,348 feet/5,897 meters, and Chimborazo at 20,703 feet/6,310 meters. I climbed in Ecuador with Mountain Madness and will again in Bolivia. And a bit of trivia, I’ll turn 63 while on Illimani – 21,122 ft / 6438 m! Alzheimer’s Fundraising Opportunity Before I talk about the climbs, I want to introduce a new fundraising concept for this time. Those who have followed me over the years know that I promote direct donations to research-oriented Alzheimer’s non-profits or supporting clinical trails during my climbs. This has resulted in hundreds of thousands of dollars in direct donations, none ever to me. For this Bolivian expedition, I want to offer to speak at any event in any mainland US City as long as the organizers (individual, group, organization, company, etc.) will guarantee that a minimum of $5,000 will be donated directly to a research-oriented Alzheimer’s non-profit. Click this link to add your “Event Bid” and the highest over $5,000 will win! I’ll update the bids on my blog throughout July and announce the winner on August 1, 2019. Of course, as always, direct donations in any amount are appreciated. Read more about why this cause is so important at this link and how Alzheimer’s took Ida Arnette’s life. You can read more about my professional speaking at this link Why Bolivia? These peaks have become extremely popular climbs for aspiring high-altitude climbers. With relatively easy access, low cost and reasonably high success rate, many people new to climbing seek these out for their first big peak. I have a few different reasons. First up, I’ve never climbed in Bolivia but they are perfect for some of my Summit Coach clients looking to build their skills at modest altitudes so I want to climb them myself. My Ecuador trip with Mountain Madness was outstanding from their back office support to the in-country team led by Ossy Frier. I did this interview with Mark Gunlogson, their CEO, were he discussed MM’s business, Scott Fischer and Christine Boskoff. Finally, do I have one more 8000er in me? These climbs will help me understand if I do. Bolivia Bolivia is a country in central South America, with terrain spanning Andes Mountains, the Atacama Desert and Amazon Basin rainforest. At more than 12,000-feet, its capital, La Paz, sits on the Andes’ Altiplano plateau with Mt. Illimani in the background. Nearby is Lake Titicaca, the continent’s largest lake, straddling the border with Peru. We will fly into La Paz, the world’s highest capital city and the world’s highest commercial airport at 13,200-feet. The Climbs We are taking a well-thought out acclimatization program that starts at 12,000-feet and gradually moves higher to the summits of three peaks ending with Illimani at 21,125-feet. Pequeno Alpamayo Located at the Condoriri Group in La Coordillera Blanca in Bolivia it stands at 17,749 ft / 5,410 m. The Pequeño Alpamayo, or Little Alpamayo is located at the Condoriri Group in La Coordillera Blanca in Bolivia. It is a pyramid of snow, with the standard route being about 55 degrees, snow, nice in the morning, but sticky later in the day. It was first climbed in August 1962 by South Africans Irene and Keith Whitelock. We will take the West Ridge route. Huayna Potosi Huayna Potosí is 19,974-feet/6,088-meter in the Cordillera Real. Huayna Potosí is the closest high mountain to La Paz. Surrounded by high mountains, it is roughly 15 miles due north of the city, which makes this mountain the most popular climb in Bolivia. The climbing sounds like fun! As one person put it “The summit ridge of Huayna Potosí provided a spectacular finish to this climb. The snow at the top is too narrow for pickets, and too soft for ice screws. If someone falls the only recourse is, hopefully, to jump off the other side in time – in other words “watch you step!” ” The normal ascent route is a fairly straightforward glacier climb, with some crevasses and a steep climb to the summit. The first ascent of the normal route took place in 1919 by Germans Rudolf Dienst and Adolf Schulze. Illimani At 21,122 ft / 6438 m, Illimani is the highest mountain in the Cordillera Real of western Bolivia. It lies near the cities of El Alto and La Paz at the eastern edge of the Altiplano. It is the second highest peak in Bolivia, after Nevado Sajama, and the eighteenth highest peak in South America. Towering over the south of the town of La Paz, Illimani is a revered mountain by the Bolivians. The name seems to derive from the word Aymara Illi mani, meaning Golden Eagle. Follow Along! I will be on the mountains for most of this trip with limited internet access but will update this Blog and social media as I can. A full trip report will be available after the climbs. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
2019 Alzheimer’s Fundraising Event
Support Alan’s 63rd Birthday with a Donation to Alzheimer’s Research CLICK HERE TO DONATE I was hoping a new idea might bring new opportunities for Alzheimer’s fundraising but there has not been any individual, group or company contact me to on my offer to speak at any event in any mainland US city as long as the organizers would guarantee a minimum of $5,000 will be donated directly to a research-oriented Alzheimer’s non-profit. It’s not too late Click this link to add your “bid” and the highest bid over $5,000 will win! But there is always the traditional method! Alan’s 63 Birthday – Alzheimer’s Research – WE DID IT!!!! $6,0000 AND COUNTING!!!! THNAK YOU!! Instead of the event, I am asking that for my 63rd birthday this Saturday, July 27th, 2019 that a donation in any amount that is meaningful to you be made to the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund using this Crowdrise site. 100% of your donations goes to research, none ever to me. Read more about why this cause is so important at this link and how Alzheimer’s took Ida Arnette’s life. Those who have followed me over the years know that I promote direct donations to research-oriented Alzheimer’s non-profits or supporting clinical trails during my climbs. This has resulted in hundreds of thousands of dollars in direct donations, none ever to me. For this Bolivian expedition, I want to offer to speak at any event in any mainland US city as long as the organizers (individual, group, organization, company, etc.) will guarantee that a minimum of $5,000 will be donated directly to a research-oriented Alzheimer’s non-profit. Simply add your “Event Bid” at this page and the highest over $5,000 will win! I’ll update the bids on my blog throughout July and announce the winner on August 1, 2019. Of course, as always, direct donations in any amount are appreciated. Read more about why this cause is so important at this link and how Alzheimer’s took Ida Arnette’s life. You can read more about my professional speaking at this link Details: Event to be held in October 2019 All parties agree to promote the event on respective social media and with local press Venue can be simple and inexpensive, perhaps a local REI store which will donate space. Any event expenses borne by the organizer Alan self-funds all of his travel expenses There is no speaking fee A minimum of $5,000 must be donated directly to an agreed upon Alzheimer’s non-profit within 7 days of the event. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything