The final two episodes of Everest: Beyond the Limit Season 3 were quite good; very different from the first three in a number of ways. First, the camera work seemed much better; perhaps because many of the scenes were in full daylight. The editing was smooth and neither episode felt rushed when compared, especially, to the first episode. Then, I think the story line was more even and took us into the team dynamics without any of the conflict. I appreciated hearing directly from so many of the climbers and their unfiltered honesty. Finally, we held a Titter Chat (#EV09) continue reading
Dec 292009
It has been about a month since we replaced our Windows PCs with iMacs so I thought a quick report was in order. I am glad to report – all is fine. As I posted on November 19, we replaced an HP and Dell PC running Windows XP with two iMacs. The installation and data transfers were simple. And the learning curve fast. We both have standard configurations with 4 MB and are pleasantly surprised at the speed. Cathy’s World Looking a bit deeper; I tend to use the computer for more functions than my wife, Cathy, who mostly surfs continue reading
Tigress Productions filmed two teams on Everest this past spring and tonight, The Discovery Channel aired in the U.S. the first three episodes of the five part season. For the first time they filmed on the Nepal, south, side of Everest since the Chinese made it too difficult to climb from the north in 2009. Also they followed two teams, Eric Simonson’s International Mountain Guides in addition to their regular; Russel Brice’s Himalayan Experience (Himex). In a departure from their formula of interpersonal conflict, exaggerated drama and defiant climbers; this season focused almost exclusively on climbing. In the previous two continue reading
Anyone interested in chatting real time during the Discovery Channel Everest: Beyond the Limit tonight; follow me on Twitter at http://twitter.com/alan_arnette and put #EV09 at the end of each post. If you create a search with #EV09 it will make it easy to follow the chat. Maybe we can get some of the climbers who were there to join us. Starts at 6:00 Mountain Time
A Killer Ski Movie
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Dec 222009
A combination of Friday the 13th and Vertical Limit …
North Face – a new climbing movie
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Dec 222009
Climbers of all skills know of the Eiger. This 13,025′ peak in the Swiss Alps has been a topic of legend and tales for centuries. The North face has been lusted and sought out by climbers and was featured in the Clint Eastwood classic, the Eiger Sanction. It was first climbed in 1938 and 64 climbers have died attempting the steep and dangerous north face. With this drama background, the new movie, NORTH FACE is set to open on January 29 in New York and across the US in February. See the full list here. From the press kit:
Alzheimer's Research in Need
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Dec 172009
Over the past few years, I can summarize the challenge about Alzheimer’s, medical research and fund raising in one of my favorite phrases: Is it hard or Impossible?. And the answer is really, really hard. Not impossible, just hard. And your help is needed. I know we are consistently asked to give to a multitude of worthy causes. However, since you visit this site, I hope that you will feel that a donation to Alzheimer’s is a worthy way of saying thanks. The Cure Alzheimer’s Fund is my choice for research because 100% of all donations only go to research continue reading
According to the production company, Tigress Productions, Season 3 will air on the Discovery Channel in the US on Sunday, 27th December and Wednesday, 30th December. The first three episodes are being shown on the 27th at 8, 9 & 10 pm EST followed by episodes 4 & 5 at 9 & 10 pm on the 30th. Episode One covers early trips through the ice fall, David Tait’s summit with the rope fixing team and the ice fall avalanche that killed the Sherpa. Episode Two concentrates on John Golden’s summit attempt with IMG Episode Three covers the main IMG team continue reading
Dec 132009
Multiple news agencies are reporting on 1 dead and 2 climbers missing on Mt. Hood as of Saturday, December 12. They left the Timberline Wy’east Day Lodge at 1:00 a.m. Friday morning for a 12 hour climb up the Reid Glacier but never returned. Friends alerted Search and Rescue (SAR) when they failed to return as scheduled. Yesterday 26 year-old climber Luke Gullberg was found dead near 9,000 feet. Climbing gear was found strewn randomly on the glacier. Angles in this area reach 60 degrees. 30 SAR personnel were involved in the efforts on Saturday and reported the area was continue reading
Early Season Death on Aconcagua
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Dec 082009
The climbing season on the highest mountain outside the Himalayas has just begun and the first death has already occurred. American climber, Michel Miniesll died during his descent. The 39 year-old climber had attempted the summit twice and on his third attempt was returning via the Polish Glacier, normally a technical route. He is reported to have become lost in a snowstorm. Already this season nine climbers have been evacuated for various physical reasons. Aconcagua is located in Argentina near the border with Chile. It is the highest mountain in South America at 22,841′ and one of the 7 Summits. continue reading
Dec 052009
It may seem a little early, but the 2010 Everest season is just around the corner. I have started my annual coverage with a short introduction to the season on it’s very own Blog. As always, I will cover the climbers and teams as they spend spring making their way up the mountain targeting a late May summits from both sides. Read more on the Everest 2010 Blog.
Dec 052009
I received an early present from my Christmas wish list; the latest GPS Personal locator beacon from SPOT otherwise known as the SPOT Satellite GPS Messenger. I took it out for a test drive on an easy hike to Bison Peak in the Lost Creek Wilderness of central Colorado. The SPOT performed well. I wanted SPOT primarily to keep my wife informed of where I was when I was out of cell phone range, which happens often with my iPhone/ATT in the Colorado back country. Also, I thought it would be nice to see my tracks when I got back continue reading
Nov 292009
We lost another great climber in November, Lino Lacedelli at age 83. He and Achille Compagnoni were the first two men to summit K2 on July 31,1954 – a year after the first Everest summit. He died in his hometown of Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy. Their summit brought great pride to Italy. However, as is usually the case in significant mountaineering events, this first was also immersed in controversy. Lacedelli and Compagnoni made their way up K2 establishing a high camp at 8,100 meters. Two additional climbers providing support by carrying additional oxygen bottles were supposed to rendezvous with them at continue reading
Nov 242009
One never to give up, the former record holder for the oldest Everest summit, Japanese Yuichiro Miura, is now targeting another summit at age 80 – in 2013. This according to a report today from AFP. He wants to climb the north this time after previously completing two successful south-side climbs. Late last week he lost his record to Nepalese Min Bahadur Sherchan who produced birth certificates to verify his claim that he was the oldest person to top out Everest with his summit last year. He was 76 at the time. Miura-san is most famous for being the man continue reading
Nov 232009
I am extremely excited to announce that starting today, I am a regular blogger for Outside Magazine’s Online website. After watching my annual coverage of the Everest climbing season the past few years, plus the content on my own site from my own adventures I was approached by Editor Joe Spring to join their team. I am honored to join such excellent bloggers as Stephen Regenold of the Gear Junkie. In addition to sharing my experiences and a passion for mountaineering, this is also a wonderful opportunity to raise visibility for Alzheimer’s causes. I am most grateful to Outside for continue reading
Oldest Everest Summiter – dejavu
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Nov 232009
Records are meant to be made and broken – but not over and over for the same record with the same people. As I reported during the 2009 spring season, many records were established for youngest, fastest, etc. And for the oldest person to summit Everest, I wrote: The oldest was 76-year-old Bahadur Sherchan, from Nepal on May 26, 2008. However Japanese Yuichiro Miura (the man who skied down Everest) has now been recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records to be the oldest summitter at age 75 since Mr. Sherchan could not prove his birth date. Tamae Watanabe continue reading
Nov 202009
Update: A Month with A Mac can be found here. Am I trendy or smart? Probably a bit of both but using Apple computers is not new to me. You see, I bought an Apple II in 1977 when I was a junior in College getting my EE Degree. As I was being was interviewed by my local newspaper, the Memphis Commercial Appeal, as an oddity for owning a computer; the reporter asked me all the normal questions but never really understood why I needed a “personal computer”. How times have changed! Upon taking a job with HP, I had continue reading
Nov 152009
One of the world’s top alpinist, Tomaz Humar, died this past week on the remote Nepalese peak Langtang Lirung, 23,711′ 7227m. The Slovenian mountaineer was climbing solo on the south face and suffered some type of injury at 6300m. A massive rescue effort was quickly organized out of Switzerland dispatching an elite team of pilots, climbers and logistics experts to Nepal. Sadly, they found his lifeless body around 5600m on Saturday November 14th. Tomaz had called via his satellite phone on November 10th saying he was injured and needed an immediate rescue. The following video reports on the rescue attempt: continue reading
Buying Climbing Gear Online
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Nov 122009
Everybody wants a deal. Houses, cars, beer and of course, climbing gear. Thus an entire industry has emerged over the years to serve this “price sensitive” market online. After all why pay $500 for that down jacket you need – yes you need it – instead of say, $99? I know I buy most of my gear online these days. It is safe, easy and convenient. I have about 5o gear sites bookmarked and check them all when looking at a big purchase. I have my favorites sites like Mountain Gear, Spadout and I have come to use Backcountry’s Steep continue reading
Nov 112009
If you have explored my site, you know that Longs Peak is one of my favorite climbs. In under two hours, I can be on the trail at 9400′ and reach the summit at 14,256′ in a few hours on a good day. It has all types of routes from simple walkups to world-class technical trad climbing. And it offers the best and worst in mountaineering weather all year-round thus making for excellent training for Denali, Aconcagua or serious Himalayan climbs. Of all my pages on 14ers, I have more about Longs than any other since have climbed on it continue reading
Mom – Is Everythng OK?
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Nov 102009
“I think something is wrong with Mom.” I said quietly to my wife. And with that Christmas observation in 2000, the future was cast. Recognizing the early signs of Alzheimer’s and dementia are crucial for taking care of parents, relatives and friends. And since we often only see them during the holidays, early November is a good time to review the signs. I lived across the country and sometimes across oceans from my parents as they aged thus missing some obvious signs. But during a Christmas visit in 2000, I noticed my mother not being herself. Once meticulous about her continue reading
Nov 042009
Ever look at another climber’s pack and wonder? Come on admit it, I know you do! Packs come in all sizes and shapes. Some are lean and mean while others are fat and dumpy. However most of this is not due to the pack; it is what’s inside that counts. This is the first in the series “What’s in Your Pack?” where I will look at gear from simple day hikes to overnight trips to treks to Everest Base Camp then climbs to 8000m and above. But first, lets take a look at packing for a simple day climb of continue reading
This is an incredibly powerful short video. From the Alzheimer’s Association site about the video: “My Name is Lisa” is powerful fictional film that depicts a 13-year-old girl struggling with her mother’s Alzheimer’s disease. It won best short film on YouTube in 2007, drawing the attention of millions. We hope it changes the way you think about Alzheimer’s and those who are affected.
Random: NYC Marathon, Chinese Alz, Pumori
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Nov 012009
A wonderfully inspirational story- Meb Keflezighi wins the NY Marathon Tough season on Pumori-no summits from Peak Freak in spite of a leading great effort and the Hanesbrand test team . Success on Ama Dablam: IMG with no drama The Alzheimer’s Association site is now in Chinese, Korean and Vietnamese. Interesting analysis of Colorado’s recent huge snow storm, impact on climbing conditions in RMNP 6 Early avalanches in the Colorado high country Found in Antarctica: two cases MacKinlay’s Scotch Whisky from 1908 Ernest Shackleton’s South Pole team United Airline’s last 737 flight Diamox – The Altitude Wonder Drug? Maybe. Maybe continue reading
Oct 312009
Why do you climb? An age-old question first publicly asked in the 1920s of George Mallory during his attempts on Everest. His incredibly complex or dismissive answer was “Because it is there.” Similar to mine and no less understood by strangers, acquaintances, friends and some of my family. To see the sun rise before it does. To understand fellow climbers in an accelerated environment. An alternative to the day-to-day world. To see if you can do it. To spend time with yourself and see if you are really whom you think you are. To discover your limits. Climbing captures the continue reading
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