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Lino Lacedelli-K2, Dead at 83

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Nov 292009
 
Lino Lacedelli-K2, Dead at 83

We lost another great climber in November, Lino Lacedelli at age 83. He and Achille Compagnoni were the first two men to summit K2 on July 31,1954 – a year after the first Everest summit. He died in his hometown of Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy. Their summit brought great pride to Italy. However, as is usually the case in significant mountaineering events, this first was also immersed in controversy. Lacedelli and Compagnoni made their way up K2 establishing a high camp at 8,100 meters. Two additional climbers providing support by carrying additional oxygen bottles were supposed to rendezvous with them at continue reading

 Climbing News

Yuichiro Miura: Everest at Age 80!

 2 Responses »
Nov 242009
 
Yuichiro Miura: Everest at Age 80!

One never to give up, the former record holder for the oldest Everest summit, Japanese Yuichiro Miura, is now targeting another summit at age 80 – in 2013. This according to a report today from AFP. He wants to climb the north this time after previously completing two successful south-side climbs. Late last week he lost his record to Nepalese Min Bahadur Sherchan who produced birth certificates to verify his claim that he was the oldest person to top out Everest with his summit last year. He was 76 at the time. Miura-san is most famous for being the man continue reading

 Everest News

Alan to Blog for Outside Magazine

 6 Responses »
Nov 232009
 
Alan to Blog for Outside Magazine

I am extremely excited to announce that starting today, I am a regular blogger for Outside Magazine’s Online website. After watching my annual coverage of the Everest climbing season the past few years, plus the content on my own site from my own adventures I was approached by Editor Joe Spring to join their team. I am honored to join such excellent bloggers as Stephen Regenold of the Gear Junkie. In addition to sharing my experiences and a passion for mountaineering, this is also a wonderful opportunity to raise visibility for Alzheimer’s causes. I am most grateful to Outside for continue reading

 Musings

Oldest Everest Summiter – dejavu

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Nov 232009
 

Records are meant to be made and broken – but not over and over for the same record with the same people. As I reported during the 2009 spring season, many records were established for youngest, fastest, etc. And for the oldest person to summit Everest, I wrote: The oldest was 76-year-old Bahadur Sherchan, from Nepal on May 26, 2008. However Japanese Yuichiro Miura (the man who skied down Everest) has now been recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records to be the oldest summitter at age 75 since Mr. Sherchan could not prove his birth date. Tamae Watanabe continue reading

 Everest News

Moving to a Mac

 3 Responses »
Nov 202009
 
Moving to a Mac

Update: A Month with A Mac can be found here. Am I trendy or smart? Probably a bit of both but using Apple computers is not new to me. You see, I bought an Apple II in 1977 when I was a junior in College getting my EE Degree. As I was being was interviewed by my local newspaper, the Memphis Commercial Appeal, as an oddity for owning a computer; the reporter asked me all the normal questions but never really understood why I needed a “personal computer”. How times have changed! Upon taking a job with HP, I had continue reading

 Musings

Tomaz Humar – Rescue Effort Video

 1 Response »
Nov 152009
 

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Tomaz Humar - Rescue Effort Video

One of the world’s top alpinist, Tomaz Humar, died this past week on the remote Nepalese peak Langtang Lirung, 23,711′ 7227m. The Slovenian mountaineer was climbing solo on the south face and suffered some type of injury at 6300m. A massive rescue effort was quickly organized out of Switzerland dispatching an elite team of pilots, climbers and logistics experts to Nepal. Sadly, they found his lifeless body around 5600m on Saturday November 14th. Tomaz had called via his satellite phone on November 10th saying he was injured and needed an immediate rescue. The following video reports on the rescue attempt: continue reading

 Climbing News

Buying Climbing Gear Online

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Nov 122009
 

Everybody wants a deal. Houses, cars, beer and of course, climbing gear. Thus an entire industry has emerged over the years to serve this “price sensitive” market online. After all why pay $500 for that down jacket you need – yes you need it – instead of say, $99? I know I buy most of my gear online these days. It is safe, easy and convenient. I have about 5o gear sites bookmarked and check them all when looking at a big purchase. I have my favorites sites like Mountain Gear, Spadout and I have come to use Backcountry’s Steep continue reading

 Musings

Longs Peak Diamond Climb – video

 2 Responses »
Nov 112009
 
Longs Peak Diamond Climb - video

If you have explored my site, you know that Longs Peak is one of my favorite climbs. In under two hours, I can be on the trail at 9400′ and reach the summit at 14,256′ in a few hours on a good day. It has all types of routes from simple walkups to world-class technical trad climbing.  And it offers the best and worst in mountaineering weather all year-round thus making for excellent training for Denali, Aconcagua or serious Himalayan climbs. Of all my pages on 14ers, I have more about Longs than any other since have climbed on it continue reading

 Colorado 14ers

Mom – Is Everythng OK?

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Nov 102009
 
Mom – Is Everythng OK?

“I think something is wrong with Mom.” I said quietly to my wife.  And with that Christmas observation in 2000, the future was cast. Recognizing the early signs of Alzheimer’s and dementia are crucial for taking care of parents, relatives and friends. And since we often only see them during the holidays, early November is a good time to review the signs. I lived across the country and sometimes across oceans from my parents as they aged thus missing some obvious signs. But during a Christmas visit in 2000, I noticed my mother not being herself. Once meticulous about her continue reading

 Alzheimer's

What’s in Your Pack? 14ers

 2 Responses »
Nov 042009
 
What's in Your Pack? 14ers

Ever look at another climber’s pack and wonder? Come on admit it, I know you do! Packs come in all sizes and shapes. Some are lean and mean while others are fat and dumpy. However most of this is not due to the pack; it is what’s inside that counts. This is the first in the series “What’s in Your Pack?” where I will look at gear from simple day hikes to overnight trips to treks to Everest Base Camp then climbs to 8000m and above. But first, lets take a look at packing for a simple day climb of continue reading

 Colorado 14ers

"My Name is Lisa" -a short video on Alzheimer's

 1 Response »
Nov 022009
 

This is an incredibly powerful short video. From the Alzheimer’s Association site about the video: “My Name is Lisa” is powerful fictional film that depicts a 13-year-old girl struggling with her mother’s Alzheimer’s disease. It won best short film on YouTube in 2007, drawing the attention of millions. We hope it changes the way you think about Alzheimer’s and those who are affected.

 Alzheimer's

Random: NYC Marathon, Chinese Alz, Pumori

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Nov 012009
 

A wonderfully inspirational story- Meb Keflezighi wins the NY Marathon Tough season on Pumori-no summits from Peak Freak in spite of a leading great effort and the Hanesbrand test team  . Success on Ama Dablam: IMG with no drama The Alzheimer’s Association site is now in Chinese, Korean and Vietnamese. Interesting analysis of Colorado’s recent huge snow storm, impact on climbing conditions in RMNP 6 Early avalanches in the Colorado high country Found in Antarctica: two cases MacKinlay’s Scotch Whisky from 1908 Ernest Shackleton’s South Pole team United Airline’s last 737 flight Diamox – The Altitude Wonder Drug? Maybe. Maybe continue reading

 Musings
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