Everest 2013: Weekend Update March 24

Pizza at Fire and Ice
Pizza at Fire and Ice in Kathmandu

The Everest 2013 season has begun! Teams are streaming into Kathmandu this weekend preparing for a journey of a lifetime.

For the first time climbers, s the sights, smells and sounds of Kathmandu take them to another place in time. For the returning climbers, memories are activated of previous adventures. And for everyone, there and back home, stomachs turn in anticipation.

Numerous teams have already started their trek towards Everest Base Camp. This should take about 7 to 10 days depending on their side trips. The trek is a critical part of any high altitude climb as it prepares the body for the extreme altitudes yet to come, not to mention an amazing experience on it’s own.

Also, there are throngs of trekkers making their way to Everest Base Camp. This is how my love affair with the Himalaya started back in 1997. I saw Everest, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu for the first time, never dreaming I would climb them one day.

I always say, if you have a chance to trek in Nepal, it will change your life.

For Nepal climbers, they fly into Lukla’s Tenzing-Hillary airport at 9,400 feet. If they are climbing from Tibet, most will start with an overland journey and a week long drive through the amazing Tibetan countryside.

Regardless, it is an adventure.

I’m excited to start my annual coverage with almost daily updates of the season. If you have followed me in the past you know I try to reflect on my own adventures in Nepal and Tibet with a few personal stories and pictures.

As soon as the climbers get settled and start updating their blogs, I will integrate their live updates into my coverage.


Paraphrasing Thorton Wilder’s quote on adventure:

“An adventure is when you are in it you pray to come home alive, and when you are back home, you pray to go back.”

That is how I feel about Everest.

If you have ever been at Everest Base Camp when a tired, exhausted climber returns from the summit, well, it is inspiring. All the pains go away, huge smiles and easy laughs emerge as the climber rallies to tell her tale; her audience spell bound even though they have heard similar stories before.

At the other end of the experience are the climbers who return without the summit. Some are pleased with their effort and join in the celebration; others are devastated as the dream melts away like the ice under their feet. Huge, strong men fight the tears with gasps of air.

What is a summit? What is a climb? It is simplistic to wave it away as hubris, the indulgences of the self-absorbed, the narcissistic looking for bragging rights. Are there climbers guilty of these at times? Of course, but Everest has a way of bringing every climber back to reality.

For many Everest climbers, the weeks and months back home from the climb are difficult, regardless of the result. For summiters, there is adjusting to reality of a goal accomplished and the inevitable question of what’s next. There is an unexpected feeling of loss on top of accomplishment.

For those who did not make the summit, the journey back is even more difficult. There are few words to describe what happened. There is no headline but one is created to satisfy those party conversations. Deep down, each answer is followed by a long inward look.

Why climb this beast if it destroys you regardless of your result?

Lying in the tent at 23,000 feet knowing the time has come to push harder than you have ever pushed for anything brings focus to life.

Quiet words over deafening winds with a teammate lying a hair width away in their sleeping bag, you both stare at the ceiling sharing thoughts that few would understand. A lifetime bond is made with simple words and shorts glances.

The climb itself is lonely. One step followed by heavy breaths. You look around for support from friends, strangers, anyone – anything human. You take strength from the climber making progress ahead of you. You take lessons from the struggling one. The images are locked in your memory for life.

You wish you were somewhere else, anywhere. Maybe home, perhaps a beach with your spouse, your kids. You want to go down. But you don’t.

Why would anyone do this to themselves?

Today hundreds of climbers from around the world are starting this journey. Many don’t know what they don’t know. Others know it too well.

Each will come home with few words to explain what happened. But they will have a different look in their eyes, a different view of the world, of themselves.

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

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7 thoughts on “Everest 2013: Weekend Update March 24

  1. Alan,
    Spectacular entry to kick of 2013. You really bring the experience as close to heart as possible for those who’ve never been (rivaling Krakauer!). Your coverage last year was awesome. I can’t wait for what’s to come.

  2. Having trekked in Nepal five times, including EBC and ABC, I share your sentiment, although the highest I ever trekked is about 5500m only. At the beginning of every trek, I asked myself, why am I doing here, ‘torturing’ myself. As days wear on, there is a sense of rest and peace, in union with nature and God. At the end, there is immense sense of satisfaction. I am going back again this November.

  3. Alan, I love your description of the suffering and the joy of being there.
    As a climber/collector of mountaineering quotes, this is the one that says it best for me:

    In some ways, going to the mountains is incomprehensible to many people and inexplicable by those who go. The reasons are difficult to unearth and only with those who are similarly drawn is there no need to try to explain.
    Joe Tasker, Savage Arena page 260

  4. Thank you for doing this!! I really appreciate you putting the time in to share our stories and combine the climbers stories. The whole process and mentality is so fascinating to me and those of us who will probably never do it, but admire everyone who does. Thank you.

  5. It sounds, although I have been wrong a couple of times before, like you enjoy what you’re doing Alan?
    Thanks for the very best Everest coverage. Year after year.

  6. Can’t wait for your coverage, Alan. It’s a treat for those of us that want to be there.

  7. I treked through the khumbu valley to base camp last year what an amazing experience the landscape and people took my breath away can only say two things one its amazing and two I wish I was there this yaer!

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