With the big snow event this week, there was little to no progress on any of the big peaks. The ropes stayed where they were with no progress and the acclimatization rotations stalled. The Everest teams even thought it might be impossible this autumn but that seems to have changed.  Now there are predictions of summit attempts in the last week of September fr most peaks. The autumn season can go well into October so now is not the time to panic for anyone, expect those on Cho Oyu who must be off the peak by the end of September when China close Tibet to foreigners.

Everest – Clearing but is the Route In or Not?

The weather has cleared away from Everest Base Camp. There seems to be a difference of opinion on the route through the Icefall. Tim Emmet with the Madison Mountaineering team posted:

For the last two weeks the Ice fall doctors have tried to find a way through to camp one. After the summer the conditions are like nothing they have seen before with less snow and more crevasses than Spring. 2 weeks of dead ends and no progress finally getting to an impasse where they said it was not possible to get across the icefall. 4 expeditions are relying on getting to camp 1 so they can have a chance to complete their quests and until yesterday it looked like we might all be going home. With the help of Dorgee Sherpa (18 Everest summits) to hold my rope I found a way through the impasse and fixed ropes for the team to the other side of the ice fall. So Psyched !!