Denali 2026 Coverage: Podcast with Summiteer – John Bartolic
The Denali 2026 season is well underway, with a dated climber report as of June 1, 2026, of 513 climbers, mainly on the West Buttress route. 97 climbers have completed their trips, and 381 are left to check in and begin their climbs. One team that did summit was one from American Alpine Institute and Summit Coach client, John Bartlic
John, a Southwest Airlines pilot living in Dallas, Texas, is relatively new to mountaineering, with a Rainier summit last year and a Pico de Orizaba summit a few months ago. His next includes Kilimanjaro and Everest. We discussed everything from motivation, training, gear, clothing and weather to logistics and had a special remembrance of Mayor Stubbs of Talkeetna, Alaska, who died in 2017. I met Stubbs in 2007 on a climb. #Denali2026
If you would like to be notified when my memoir, “Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I’m still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: https://www.alanarnette.com/memoir
Everest 2026: Missing Sherpa Found Alive
After six days isolated above base camp, Dawa “Hillary” Sherpa, 52, was found alive after rescuing himself. He had fallen into a crevasse near Camp 1 at around 19,500 feet, was trapped for two days, crawled out and then descended the Khumbu Icefall despite the ladders having been removed. He was found by members of the SPCC staff, Bhim Bhattarai and Durga Rai, in an extremely weak condition near Crampon Point, but conscious. He has frostbite on his fingers, is verbal, and is now in a hospital in Kathmandu in good condition. #everest2026
If you would like to be notified when my memoir, “Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I’m still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: https://www.alanarnette.com/memoir
Everest 2026: Season Summary – Records, Crowds, Trash & Winds
Welcome to my annual Everest summary, where I review what happened and who did what. Quirky. That’s my word for Everest 2026. Or perhaps, “normal.”
The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close. There were delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, moments of concern and challenging climbing. Despite the dramatic headlines in the mainstream press, it was actually a fairly normal season, as evidenced in part by roughly 80% of this year’s 1,008 summits occurring between May 17th and May 26th, consistent with historical trends. The Himalayan Database will publish what I consider to be the definitive results later this year. #everest2026
If you would like to be notified when my memoir, “Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I’m still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: https://www.alanarnette.com/memoir
Everest 2026: May 31 Weekend Update – Record Season Over & 1 More Death?
The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close, marked by delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, and challenging climbing – yet despite the dramatic mainstream press headlines, it was actually a fairly normal season. As usual, there were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many of these incidents went unreported to avoid negative publicity. There are reports today that a Sherpa “was left to die at C3.” Oh, and record permits and record summits, including 274 on one day! I’ll post my season summary and wrap-up in a few days. #everest2026
Everest 2026: : Last Summits?
We might have the final commercial summits in sporadic wind episodes, with more predicted. The no Os climbers had mixed results, as did the runners. Popular American no O’s climber, Justin Sackett, turned back near the Balcony, while Kristin Harila summited with no Os—also, an update on what qualifies for a no-supplemental-use-of-oxygen climb. The Icefall Docs say they will remove the ladders on the 29th. The final total for the Everest- Nepal side summit will most certainly top 1,000, including members, guides and Sherpas. #everest2026
Everest 2026: Another Wave of Summits
We had at least 50 more summits on Monday morning, May 25th, 2026. I’m estimating there have been over 900 summit in total by members, guides and Sherpas. With only a few teams left, we are seeing the end of the season coming into view in breezy conditions, with those left targeting the 27th. The Icefall Docs say they will remove the ladders on the 29th. #everest2026
Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update – Nearing the End
With the ropes to Everest and, now, Lhotse in place, there were multiple summits, including records on Sunday morning, May 17, 2026. With the weather improving, the route in, team after team has left base camp to be in position for their summit. While the major impact of the jet stream has passed, fragments could still create bitter windchill and frostbite, so climbers will need to be prepared to bail if the jet stream suddenly returns.
The Everest summits for the season total is around 86, with 54 Sherpas and 32 clients. The ratio is skewed by the large rope team, entirely comprised of Sherpas. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest. #everest2026
Everest 2026: A Few More Summits, Speed Runner is Climbing
We had more summits overnight, and the no Os climbers and runners are on their way. American trail runner Tyler Andrews departed from Everest Base Camp at 8:25 pm local time on Friday evening to attempt to set the record for the fastest ascent and descent to the summit without using supplemental oxygen. You can follow him on his site. #everest2026
Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2, 2 More Deaths
A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with Garrett at Everest Camp 2, 21,500 feet, during their summit push. They are targeting May 25, just a few days away. I wanted to talk to him about icefall conditions and delays, the changing rules around the jet stream, and more. I hope you enjoy.
We had more summits overnight, including yet another multi-summit record. #everest2026
Everest 2026: The Western Team’s Turn, My Summit Anniversary
After a Nepal-side record 274 summits on May 20, it’s time for the Western teams to take their turn. As we’ve discussed, the Nepali operators follow the rope team as quickly as possible to summit, while the foreign (i.e., Western) operators wait until the last possible weather window, which is now. On a personal note, this is the anniversary of my Everest summit, and I’m announcing my upcoming memoir: Hard or Impossible? Summitting K2 for Ida. #everest2026