Tragedy on Broad Peak

I always hesitate to post about climbing accidents too early, as there is a tremendous amount of misinformation in the mainstream media and especially on social media; thus, this is a preliminary post with as much information as I can confirm as of midday, July 31, 2026.

Apparently, around 9:30 am local time on July 30, at 6,600m, a massive avalanche on Broad Peak, 8,047 meters / 26,401 feet, affected at least 10 climbers, including Elite Expeditions co-founder Nirmal Purja. This is the first official information published: 

The Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) has received deeply concerning reports of an avalanche that struck a team of climbers on Broad Peak (8,047m) in the Karakoram around midday today.

According to the initial information received, the expedition comprises 10 climbers, including five Nepalese mountaineers led by the renowned climber Nims Dai, one Pakistani climber, Sohail Sakhi from Hunza, Nathira, an Omani mountaineer, American climber Mallory Geis, one Chinese climber, Mr. Wang, and one other foreign climber. The entire team has reportedly been out of communication since the avalanche.

The President of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, Major General Irfan Arshad, along with the senior leadership of the Club, is in constant contact with the highest government authorities and all relevant agencies to facilitate an immediate search and rescue operation. Every possible effort is being made to ensure that helicopter support and all available rescue resources are mobilized at the earliest opportunity, subject to weather and operational conditions.

The Alpine Club of Pakistan is closely monitoring the situation and coordinating with all concerned stakeholders. The Club prays for the safety and successful rescue of all the climbers and stands in solidarity with their families and the international mountaineering community during this difficult time.

Ian Overton, a friend who was at Broad Peak with Hungarian David Klein, told me that conditions were poor and that he didn’t even attempt Broad on July 19th. Klein did but turned back just below the summit due to poor conditions.

Outlett dw.com reported this morning that:

Two Pakistan Army Aviation helicopters joined the operation on Friday, while an experienced ground team deployed to the area where the group of at least 10 climbers was last believed to have been. “The team has been out of communication since Thursday,” Alpine Club vice president Karrar Haidri said. Authorities were in contact with the climbers’ families, he added. Pakistani security sources said the four bodies were located but had not ‌yet been recovered.

There were multiple teams on Broad Peak, including Elite Exped, Seven Summits Treks, Moving Mountains and Imagine Nepal. Several media outlets report that four bodies, including Nadhira Al Harthy from Oman and Pur Bahadur Gurung “Yukta” from Nepal, have been recovered. The identities of the other missing climbers have also been confirmed as

• UK-Nepali Nirmal Purja
• Pakistani Sohail Sakhi
• American Mallory Geis
• Chinese Wang Zhong
• Nepali  Kili Pemba Sherpa
• Nepali Nima Sherpa
• Nepali Nawang Thindu Sherpa
• Nepali Gyalu Sherpa

Many of the climbers had GPS devices that showed a drop of 800 meters or more. There are unconfirmed reports that a few devices showed movement 24 hours after the avalanche, prompting speculation that the owner was alive. However, to be cautious, the device could have been separated from its owner and is still tumbling down the steep mountainside amid avalanche debris. In 2006, I reached 6,400 meters (21,000 feet) near where the event occurred and can confirm that it is very steep and active.

There is video of an avalanche reportedly on Broad Peak, but it is unverified.

I assume the search efforts will continue but understand they are halted due to poor weather. Some of the teams on nearby K2 have abandoned their climbs to assist in the search.

My condolences to friends and family of the deceased. 

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything