Dear Santa
Dear Santa, I know these are tough economic times with unemployment nearing 10%, Wall Street bonuses less than $5 million (each) this Christmas – and – well, Santa, you know all this already. But I need, yes need, more climbing gear. I knew you would understand with all those chimneys out there. Santa, I am going back to the big mountains over the next couple of years and I gave away some of my old gear to the Sherpas on my last Everest trip so I need to replace them. I have tried to be good this year, except for watching too much cable news programs – never could figure out those guys so I switched to the real Housewives – they somehow seemed more in touch. Sorry Santa, I digress. I need some boots, a new sleeping bag and that new cool SPOT thing. Also some magazines would be nice. Anyway, if you could have one of your Elves click on this link, she will find my list. Thanks Santa and Sleigh on! Alan
No Fall 2009 Everest Summits
Fall is a difficult time to climb Everest. This year there were only two teams – one on each side. Both gave it their all and both have now left the mountain without a summit attempt. Heavy snowfall and high winds were the primary issues.
The "Other" Himalaya Climbs
When people think of climbing in the Himalaya, almost everyone thinks of Mt. Everest. But the post-monsoon period of Fall is difficult on Everest with higher winds, more snow plus ever-shorter and colder days so many commercial companies turn to the slightly lower and logistically easier Cho Oyu, Manaslu and Shishapangma as their primary Fall 8000m expeditions.
Tracking Expeditions
Keeping up with friends and family on a far-away mountain expedition has always been challenging. Some teams post dispatches every few days to their website, other climbers just use sat phones to call in. Now a new trend has emerged using a satellite transmitter to “beam” your location every few minutes enabling your location to be shown on a map. Also you can alert Search and Rescue with a touch of a button in an emergency. The SPOT Satellite GPS Messenger has emerged as the leader in this category. There are some variations on this theme but SPOT has made it very simple – perhaps too simple. Their 2nd generation unit has just been released and is smaller, lighter with improved performance. To get everything needed – unit and tracking service – it costs over $350.00 with an annual renewal. You can read all the details on their website. continue reading in Gear Reviews
Andrew Lock Gets His 14th 8000m
Australian, Andrew Lock, along with his climbing partner Neil Ward, reported today they have topped out on the true summit of the world’s 14th highest mountain, Shishapangma in Tibet. This now puts Andrew in the exclusive club of only 15 climbers to have climbed the 14th highest mountains – all above 8,000 meters. He did all 14 without supplemental oxygen. He started in 1991 with Everest his first 8000m attempt.
Follow Your Dreams
Setting hard goals and working towards them often defines part of human existence. Two of my friends did just that this week. Jim Davidson summited Cho Oyu and John Little his first 14er. I am so proud of both of my friends. In Jim’s blog he wrote: “I began to wonder what climbing to such great heights would be like, how one got to go on such an adventure, and, dare I say it, if even I might be able to go someday. A dream was born.” I trained with Jim and saw his plan evolve, his desire grow and his resolve strengthen. And he stood on the summit of the 26,907 Tibetan peak, 6th highest on earth, on September 24th. I can’t wait to hear the stories. John Little set a goal few of his Houston friends understood – to stand on top of a Colorado 14er. John saw climbing as a way to improved health and worked hard to reach his dream. His first attempt was thwarted by a combination of factors including a deep and soft spring snow pack but also, his understanding of the challenge. Not one to surrender, he continued to train. He wrote on his Never Stop Climbing website: “You can learn a lot from falling face first in deep snow every 30 seconds for hours on end. So, the plan now is to take those lessons and return to Belford-Oxford in early October” I was honored to climb with John to the top of the 14,197′ Mt. Belford. He worked hard and pushed his ever expanding limits. He stood on the top. Sadly another story this week ended in triumph and tragedy. 71 year-old Clifton Maloney died after his summit of Cho Oyu. My condolences to his friends, family and guide. He was an avid climber who loved the challenge. Reportedly his last words were: “I am the happiest man in the world. I just climbed a beautiful mountain.” My experience has been there are three themes to accomplishing a big goal: 1. Make it bigger than you think you can do 2. Do the hard work of detailed preparation 3. Never abandon your dream My sincere congratulations to Jim, John and Clifton. You lived your dream. Climb On! Alan
Cho Oyu Summits
Looks like Cho Oyu is being nice this season with over 30 climbers already on the summit and down safely. IMG reports their team put 7 climbers and 5 Sherpa on top yesterday and Jagged Globe has 12 members on top with Sherpa support. Also a Maltese team had 3 summits. I am especially proud for my friend, Jim Davidson, with this being his first 8000m climb. You can read the details on Jim’s blog.
More summits are expected from Adventure Consultants, Alpine Ascents, Amical, Mountain Madness and Summit Climb over the next few days. The weather looks good through the 27th.
A Special 14er Climb
I will be climbing an old friend this week – Mt. Belford and the neighbor, check Mt. Oxford. They are in the Sawatch range in Central Colorado and I climbed them both in 2005. These are not particularly difficult climbs but this will be special for an entirely different reason. You see back in April, there two new friends from Houston, John and Jermaine, traveled to Colorado to test themselves on their first 14er. Well, let’s just say conditions were not ideal for your first 14er. We had soft, mushy, knee-deep snow that when underfoot; collapsed. After a valiant effort it proved to be insurmountable. But, not one to give up easily, John said at the time he would be back and so he is. Jermaine had the spirit but not the time off from work but I am sure he too will return one day. John and I will return to Belford this weekend. There was a dusting of snow this week in the Colorado mountains but nothing like what early spring brings to the Hills. We will first climb Belford, then traverse over the summit ridge line to Oxford and return the via same route. John will send out updates via his SPOT Messenger . However, it does not always work in deep valleys, etc. As I always say, it is about the experience not the summit but sometimes you need to taste the top. Climb On! Alan
Another New Clothing Line for Climbers
In an already crowded market, mind Hanesbrand today introduced a new line of high performance clothing for climbers. It will be showcased on Everest next spring by Canadian climber, sick Jamie Clarke. Everest seems to have become a PR tool for so any causes. I am part of this in my Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits for Alzheimer’s effort. Eddie Bauer used the 2009 Everest season to showcase their First Ascent line and now Hanesbrand. The new clothing line is not yet and the announcement is more targeted to showcase their R&D but I expect the line to be available soon. You can read more at my Gear Review.
Turning Back From a Summit
I just returned from a 4 day climb of three 14ers in the Sangre de Cristo range in southern Colorado. I summited two of the three but turned back on Little Bear due to extreme veriglass on the summit gully. You can read all about it in the trip report. Turning back from any climb – whether a 14er or Everest is a complex decision. I have done both. For me, the decision becomes a fact based decision, not an emotional one. On Everest, it was a factor of my climbing speed or declining health or weather conditions. On Little Bear it was simply the conditions. It can be argued that any re is a function of not being prepared well enough – physical condition, mental toughness or gear. And there is some truth in that. The other side is one of risks and the potential reward. Yes, if I had ropes, cams, crampons, ice axes and a partner with the same; I might not have turned back on Little Bear. If I had trained harder or perhaps had better mental discipline on Everest maybe I would have gone higher and even summited. Could have, should have , would have. For me the question comes around to why I climb. Of course I want to summit on every climb – that is the objective. And of course, I want to go home feeling I gave it my and did not give up too easy or let a partner down. And, of course, I want to come home. Climb On! Alan