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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Feb 012011
 

I always say I am surprised how quickly we get off a big climb and Aconcagua was no exception. It is Tuesday morning and I am writing this from my hotel room in Mendoza after standing on the summit on Saturday night.

I will write a full trip report and update my Aconcagua FAQs and picture gallery but here a quick synopsis of our summit day.

We planned on leaving camp between 2:00 and 5:00 AM on January 29th but the winds were just howling all night long. So our team of 11 stayed in the tents while IMG Senior Guide, Peter Anderson checked the conditions hourly. I heard a stove fire up to melt water around 4:00AM thus the sign that we were going that day.

The weather had been deteriorating over the past few days as we made carries and moves higher up Aconcagua’s slopes. The forecasts were a bit disparate but we knew if we made our summit bid, it needed to be sooner rather than later.

The schedule had an acclimatization day factored in at the 19,500′ High Camp; but everyone was feeling well enough and if the mountain gives you a window – you take it.

So Peter made the call based on his experience on previous Aconcagua climbs, multiple Denali summits and years on Rainer. We left camp as a team at 5:30AM. He set a deliberate pace factoring in weather, schedule and overall team performance.

It was cold, very cold – near 0F as we started. As we moved up towards the Canaleta, a semicircle of high rock walls leading to the summit, clouds began to form and soon the entire area was enclosed with near zero visibility. But pace, patience and perseverance paid off and soon we stood on the summit.

A note here on Aconcagua summits. It is estimated it is a 30% success rate due to difficult weather and climbers underestimating the altitude effect on their bodies. So having our entire team of 11 or 100% success rate is rare for this huge Massif. A tribute to each individual, the leadership and the dynamics of the team itself.

We stayed on the summit for about 45 minutes and returned to High Camp in a swift 2.5 hours.

OK, that’s about all for now as I have to pack to get to the airport to return home to celebrate my wife’s birthday, albeit a day late. Here are a few images from summit day.


Thank you everyone for all your support on this second of the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

  13 Responses to “Back in Mendoza plus Aconcagua Summit Photos”

  1.  

    Well done and congrats Alan.. following you and your cause as ever ! Climb on to the biggy !

  2.  

    Building Momentum!!!! On to higher peaks!!! Can’t wait to travel along!!

  3.  

    Well Done again!! So inspiring and so impressed with you!

  4.  

    Grats to you and the team on another awesome achievement! Way to hang in there!

  5.  

    Don’t forget to try the wine in Mendonza if you have the chance!

  6.  

    awesome

    next stop-the top of Everest!

    Joe

  7.  

    Congratulations Alan on another successful climb of Aconcagua. Some great photos there too.
    Regards, Paul

  8.  

    Congratulations, Alan! Great effort in not so ideal conditions! Neat to see the Canaleta and summit covered in snow. Great pics too. Kristine & I loved the article on you yesterday in the Denver Post. Safe travels back home.

  9.  

    Congratulations, Alan!

    P.S. I get dizzy just looking at the photos. Wow!

  10.  

    You and a few others inspire these little gems… 🙂

  11.  

    Thanks MC and Erich! I like that saying – another MC gem 🙂

  12.  

    Congrats on another summit Alan!

  13.  

    Congrats again on 100% success rate. You are getting it done, Alan. Your Mom is smiling… Two down; Five to go.
    “Don’t just do it; get it done.” m.c. 🙂

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